1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Pouring concrete stairs?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by kris77, Jul 28, 2014.

  1. Jul 28, 2014 at 7:50 AM
    #1
    kris77

    kris77 [OP] Born in the Backwoods

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6480
    Messages:
    1,192
    Gender:
    Male
    West Virginia
    Vehicle:
    08 DC TRD Sport Speedway Blue
    In channel Vent Visors, AVS Bug Shield, Hankook Dynapro RF10 265/70/17
    Getting ready to pour a set of concrete steps for the front porch.

    3 rises of 7", runs of 10", 4' long.

    I'm going to wrap them in stone veneer on the sides and across the front of the rises.

    My question is this...Can i pour the treads separately off to the side and place them on the stairs when i'm done, or do I need to pour them at the same time and tie everything in together?

    My thinking is if I pour them and then lift them and place them on the steps, if my steps were to crack, the tops would be separate and wouldn't crack. Maybe lay a layer of 30lb felt on the step then put the cap on??? Weight of the cap would keep it in place I would think. Or is this a horrible idea?
     
  2. Jul 28, 2014 at 7:58 AM
    #2
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2010
    Member:
    #39131
    Messages:
    38,446
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Massachusetts
    Vehicle:
    '19 Ford F-250 6.7 SCrew
    F-250 Land Yacht Mod
    By nature, concrete cracks. If that will really drive you nuts, then you can set the threads separately. If you go that route though, I would not set them on felt, I would use mortar and mud set them to keep the in place and prevent water from getting underneath them. If it were me, I'd just pour them in place and be done with it or find stone treads to set on top. Forming and pouring the treads separately just seems like an awful lot of work for nothing.

    Also, proper reinforcement, a properly mixed concrete and carefully placed saw cuts can significantly reduce unwanted cracks.
     
  3. Jul 28, 2014 at 8:46 AM
    #3
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Member:
    #27584
    Messages:
    50,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter North
    British Columbia
    Vehicle:
    Mag Grey 09 Trd Sport DCLB 4x4
    OME 885x , OME shocks and Dakars , Wheelers SuperBumps front and rear , 275/70/17 Hankook ATm , OEM bed mat , Weathertech digifit floor liners , Weathertech in-channel vents , headache rack , Leer 100RCC commercial canopy , TRD bedside decals removed , Devil Horns by Andres , HomerTaco Satoshi
    Seperate treads would be heavy as shit to move , I pour lintels and caps for stonework and the are suprisingly heavy

    Is this going to be a monolithic pour of a big block of concrete ? ie 21"x 30" x 48" ?
     
  4. Jul 28, 2014 at 10:04 AM
    #4
    kris77

    kris77 [OP] Born in the Backwoods

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6480
    Messages:
    1,192
    Gender:
    Male
    West Virginia
    Vehicle:
    08 DC TRD Sport Speedway Blue
    In channel Vent Visors, AVS Bug Shield, Hankook Dynapro RF10 265/70/17
    Going to be pouring bag by bag. Roughly 20 80lb bags.
    I've already poured the footer and filled the middle part with broken up concrete. Left about 4-5" on each side for solid concrete.

    Plan on putting concrete wire on top of the broken concrete. Have rebar sticking up from the footer and plan on using 1/2" rebar throughout the steps.

    I'm just wondering before i build my forms if I should just go ahead and form up the caps with them, or put a separate cap on them? Home Depot has 12x24" patio stone that would look good as a cap, but I would have a gap between them. And I think thats probably not a good idea due to risk of water.
     
  5. Jul 28, 2014 at 10:54 AM
    #5
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Member:
    #27584
    Messages:
    50,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter North
    British Columbia
    Vehicle:
    Mag Grey 09 Trd Sport DCLB 4x4
    OME 885x , OME shocks and Dakars , Wheelers SuperBumps front and rear , 275/70/17 Hankook ATm , OEM bed mat , Weathertech digifit floor liners , Weathertech in-channel vents , headache rack , Leer 100RCC commercial canopy , TRD bedside decals removed , Devil Horns by Andres , HomerTaco Satoshi
    Depends on your budget but you could also go with cut bluestone treads

    That might tie in with your stone veneer look
     
  6. Sep 2, 2014 at 8:06 AM
    #6
    kris77

    kris77 [OP] Born in the Backwoods

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6480
    Messages:
    1,192
    Gender:
    Male
    West Virginia
    Vehicle:
    08 DC TRD Sport Speedway Blue
    In channel Vent Visors, AVS Bug Shield, Hankook Dynapro RF10 265/70/17
    So I have a problem now.

    I poured my stairs this weekend. 3 steps high, 4' wide, 10" run, 7" rise.

    I also framed up an 1 1/2" lip on each step so I can add stacked stone under each step. So i basically have a 51"x11 1/2" cap on each step. Hope that makes sense. I'll try and get some pics tonight.

    My problem is I dont think I waited long enough before I took the forms off and when i did, that 1 1/2" overhang I made cracked and some of it fell off. Now i have chips on 2 of the 3 steps.

    Something like this on every overhang...Its like the entire 1 1/2" overhang broke off on some places like the 2nd pic below and some of them only chipped the overhang...So frustrating. It looked awesome and I think I got in too big of a hurry before i took the forms off...Concrete wasnt fully set up yet.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Is there a good way to repair this? I see Lowes and HD carry a concrete crack and chip repair mix. I'm guessing just reform it and use that?
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  7. Sep 2, 2014 at 9:48 AM
    #7
    joshua721

    joshua721 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2012
    Member:
    #71555
    Messages:
    1,163
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    16 f150 xlt v6
    Concrete doesn't really stick well in the way you want to fix that .
     
  8. Sep 2, 2014 at 10:03 AM
    #8
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Member:
    #27584
    Messages:
    50,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter North
    British Columbia
    Vehicle:
    Mag Grey 09 Trd Sport DCLB 4x4
    OME 885x , OME shocks and Dakars , Wheelers SuperBumps front and rear , 275/70/17 Hankook ATm , OEM bed mat , Weathertech digifit floor liners , Weathertech in-channel vents , headache rack , Leer 100RCC commercial canopy , TRD bedside decals removed , Devil Horns by Andres , HomerTaco Satoshi
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  9. Sep 2, 2014 at 11:15 AM
    #9
    kris77

    kris77 [OP] Born in the Backwoods

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6480
    Messages:
    1,192
    Gender:
    Male
    West Virginia
    Vehicle:
    08 DC TRD Sport Speedway Blue
    In channel Vent Visors, AVS Bug Shield, Hankook Dynapro RF10 265/70/17
    Yeah I know...I've been watching videos all morning of people repairing concrete and showing before and after and then 2 yrs after and it still looks good.

    Hopefully I can accomplish something with it.
     
  10. Sep 2, 2014 at 11:18 AM
    #10
    nealkas

    nealkas Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2014
    Member:
    #123801
    Messages:
    447
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    nealkas
    Pee-Ay
    Vehicle:
    08 Superwhite DCSB 4x4, stock.
    To paraphrase The Graduate:
    Latex

    A little antifreeze and a little latex in the mix.
    Cover after pour, keep damp, and cure slowly.
     
  11. Sep 2, 2014 at 1:59 PM
    #11
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Member:
    #27584
    Messages:
    50,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter North
    British Columbia
    Vehicle:
    Mag Grey 09 Trd Sport DCLB 4x4
    OME 885x , OME shocks and Dakars , Wheelers SuperBumps front and rear , 275/70/17 Hankook ATm , OEM bed mat , Weathertech digifit floor liners , Weathertech in-channel vents , headache rack , Leer 100RCC commercial canopy , TRD bedside decals removed , Devil Horns by Andres , HomerTaco Satoshi

    Bonding to the existing concrete is going to be the problem
     
  12. Sep 2, 2014 at 2:02 PM
    #12
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Member:
    #27584
    Messages:
    50,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter North
    British Columbia
    Vehicle:
    Mag Grey 09 Trd Sport DCLB 4x4
    OME 885x , OME shocks and Dakars , Wheelers SuperBumps front and rear , 275/70/17 Hankook ATm , OEM bed mat , Weathertech digifit floor liners , Weathertech in-channel vents , headache rack , Leer 100RCC commercial canopy , TRD bedside decals removed , Devil Horns by Andres , HomerTaco Satoshi

    Some kind of bonding agent , yes
     
  13. Sep 2, 2014 at 2:35 PM
    #13
    joshua721

    joshua721 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2012
    Member:
    #71555
    Messages:
    1,163
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    16 f150 xlt v6
    Along side the bonding agent something to connect the new lip to the existing e.i. wire rebar so its not just a concrete to concrete bond.

    You mentioned a stone veneer was that just going to the sides and faces? You could find stone and just use your steps as the structure and cover them so the busted lips dissapear.
     
  14. Sep 2, 2014 at 2:51 PM
    #14
    RaleighTaco

    RaleighTaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    Member:
    #96245
    Messages:
    1,691
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathon
    Raleigh NC
    Vehicle:
    '97 Toyota 4runner
    Just veneer the risers and sides first and cut flush at the top. Then MORTAR set your cap, whatever you so choose, and set it to have a 1'' over hang....

    I dont understand the need for the 1'' lip in the concrete if your putting some type of cap on it? :confused: And i would say near impossible to repour that small of a peice and get it to adhere to concrete
     
  15. Sep 2, 2014 at 3:36 PM
    #15
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Member:
    #27584
    Messages:
    50,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter North
    British Columbia
    Vehicle:
    Mag Grey 09 Trd Sport DCLB 4x4
    OME 885x , OME shocks and Dakars , Wheelers SuperBumps front and rear , 275/70/17 Hankook ATm , OEM bed mat , Weathertech digifit floor liners , Weathertech in-channel vents , headache rack , Leer 100RCC commercial canopy , TRD bedside decals removed , Devil Horns by Andres , HomerTaco Satoshi

    ^
     
  16. Sep 3, 2014 at 5:24 AM
    #16
    kris77

    kris77 [OP] Born in the Backwoods

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6480
    Messages:
    1,192
    Gender:
    Male
    West Virginia
    Vehicle:
    08 DC TRD Sport Speedway Blue
    In channel Vent Visors, AVS Bug Shield, Hankook Dynapro RF10 265/70/17
    Here are a few pics.

    The lip is so I can put the veneer underneath it on the sides and front.

    This was my first time doing a lip on steps and I just flat out screwed it up and broke like 75% of them.

    My plan is to drill into the chipped part and instert tapcon screws or something similiar...something for the new concrete to grab to. Then paint with bonding agent. Wrap some kind of wire around the heads of the tapcons and try and form it up like before.
    I'm not optimistic its going to stay, but its the only shot i've got i think. Other than getting a concrete saw and cutting the lip off and do what OZ said and get stone caps made.

    IMG-20140902-00748.jpg
    IMG-20140902-00747.jpg
    IMG-20140902-00749.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
  17. Sep 3, 2014 at 6:23 AM
    #17
    joshua721

    joshua721 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2012
    Member:
    #71555
    Messages:
    1,163
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    16 f150 xlt v6
    I tend to step on the lip of steps, if they were my steps I'd cut it and cap it.
     
  18. Sep 3, 2014 at 7:04 AM
    #18
    kris77

    kris77 [OP] Born in the Backwoods

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6480
    Messages:
    1,192
    Gender:
    Male
    West Virginia
    Vehicle:
    08 DC TRD Sport Speedway Blue
    In channel Vent Visors, AVS Bug Shield, Hankook Dynapro RF10 265/70/17
    Problem is if I cut and cap, my two bottom steps will be 7", but my top step will then be only 5".

    I'm starting to think my best bet is to tear out and redo. I've only got about $100 in it so far.

    I would like to try and patch first.

    I've spent all morning calling around trying to get limestone caps. Nobody in my area sells them...
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2014
  19. Sep 3, 2014 at 7:34 AM
    #19
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Member:
    #27584
    Messages:
    50,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter North
    British Columbia
    Vehicle:
    Mag Grey 09 Trd Sport DCLB 4x4
    OME 885x , OME shocks and Dakars , Wheelers SuperBumps front and rear , 275/70/17 Hankook ATm , OEM bed mat , Weathertech digifit floor liners , Weathertech in-channel vents , headache rack , Leer 100RCC commercial canopy , TRD bedside decals removed , Devil Horns by Andres , HomerTaco Satoshi
    I've used 1/4" or 3/8" redi rod as rebar in small concrete sill jobs , you could tie that to the tapcon heads if there is enough room
     
  20. Sep 3, 2014 at 7:36 AM
    #20
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Member:
    #27584
    Messages:
    50,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter North
    British Columbia
    Vehicle:
    Mag Grey 09 Trd Sport DCLB 4x4
    OME 885x , OME shocks and Dakars , Wheelers SuperBumps front and rear , 275/70/17 Hankook ATm , OEM bed mat , Weathertech digifit floor liners , Weathertech in-channel vents , headache rack , Leer 100RCC commercial canopy , TRD bedside decals removed , Devil Horns by Andres , HomerTaco Satoshi

    Build up the sub base at the bottom step by 2" and put stone on the landing and all the rises would be equal
     

Products Discussed in

To Top