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License Plate Relocation

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by MTopp, Oct 14, 2014.

  1. Oct 14, 2014 at 12:29 PM
    #1
    MTopp

    MTopp [OP] Professional bear handler

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    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Post your ideas here too of you want

    Hello Tacomaworld, wanted to give my take on a license plate relocation. I've had it on for a few weeks now, no problems, solid for daily diving. Haven't been offroad yet, but shouldn't be a problem.

    Materials:
    Aluminum flat stock
    [​IMG]
    Stubby drill bits(whatever brand you can get)
    [​IMG]
    Universal license plate holder
    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...50/6360061-P?searchTerm=license+plate+bracket
    [​IMG]
    Drill/Drivers I used
    [​IMG]

    Step 1)
    I measured the distance from bottom of crashbar to about 1/4" above black plastic part. The out about 5.25"(so the back of bracket didn't hit lower bumper plastic). Then down the length I'd need to bolt through the universal license plate holder. I then put these onto the flat aluminum as best I could and bent it using a vice and heat from a torch.
    I then made sure the 2 bent parts were equal with a little more heat and hammering and lined up the universal bracket on the aluminum to make lines for holes to be drilled.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    You can see I drilled 4 holes in the back of each piece-the mouting holes that go into the crash bar. A bit overkill, but why not.
    The screws that come with the universal bracket(to mount license plate itself) were too long, so I trimmed them with my dremel(they were contacting the aluminum bracket behind the mount holes)
    [​IMG]
    I used whatever bolts/washers/nylock nuts/bolts(two washers on plastic side, one on aluminum side) I found that fit at the local hardware store to mount the bracket to the aluminum pieces.
    Then I painted the aluminum pieces black with some rustoleum after I roughed them up with a scotch pad.

    Mounting the whole thing:
    I just slipped the back into the lower valence assembled and marked where I needed to drill pilot holes for the self-tapping screws(not necessary, but makes life easier). I aligned the bracket centered and off the black plastic a little so that it doesn't scratch it or trap dirt under it too much. BE CAREFUL!! Wear safety glasses-aluminum shaving go everyhwhere when drilling.
    [​IMG]
    Finished Product:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thanks guys! Open to comments. Did this to put a lightbar in the lower valence and I wasn't going to take my front plate off and put it on the dash or some junk.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  2. Oct 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM
    #2
    AR15xAR10

    AR15xAR10 AR10 is 5 ARs better

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    ME GUSTA. :thumbsup:

    Please tell me it doesn't stick out that far from the bumper.....i mean have you shortened the aluminum flatstock to make the plate closer to the truck?
     
    MTopp[OP] and mahaloTaco like this.
  3. Oct 14, 2014 at 2:00 PM
    #3
    Large

    Large Red

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    ^ It would prob hit the bumper with wind coming in. Good job op.
     
  4. Oct 14, 2014 at 2:07 PM
    #4
    MTopp

    MTopp [OP] Professional bear handler

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    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Yeah, its a bit long, but at highway speeds it definitely won't contact the bumper and it looks fine from the front. Could be shortened by like 1/2" to 1", but who knows if it'd make contact then. If I had a go pro, I could video how much flex it has..but I don't.

    Thanks man
     
  5. Oct 14, 2014 at 5:26 PM
    #5
    1993t100

    1993t100 I’m good looking and I drive a Jeep.

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    Bad write up, stupid idea, OP is a dick.



    I kid, I kid :)
     
    Tucker771 likes this.
  6. Oct 16, 2014 at 8:10 PM
    #6
    AR15xAR10

    AR15xAR10 AR10 is 5 ARs better

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    :facepalm: what an ass
     
    MotoMoose68 and mahaloTaco like this.
  7. Oct 16, 2014 at 8:11 PM
    #7
    AR15xAR10

    AR15xAR10 AR10 is 5 ARs better

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    Please refer to build (click signature picture)
    Just put a stick on foam pad on the back of the license plate, it will protect your valance.
     
  8. Oct 16, 2014 at 8:12 PM
    #8
    T4RFTMFW

    T4RFTMFW Well-Known Member

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    :rofl: :rofl:

    Good write up OP, looks well thought out and functional!
     
  9. Oct 16, 2014 at 8:17 PM
    #9
    MTopp

    MTopp [OP] Professional bear handler

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    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Thanks, yep, could've used foam and made it closer, but works for me and looks good to me
     
  10. Oct 16, 2014 at 8:18 PM
    #10
    AR15xAR10

    AR15xAR10 AR10 is 5 ARs better

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    Please refer to build (click signature picture)
    I'd just worry about someone running into it with their leg in a parking lot or touching it to cars or objects when i park redicoulously close to be an ass :eek:
     
  11. Oct 16, 2014 at 8:19 PM
    #11
    T4RFTMFW

    T4RFTMFW Well-Known Member

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    IME foam just picks up dirt and rock sediment over time and ends up scratching or rubbing the paint to death anyway, I think having it offset like you did is a way more effective way to do it. I foam back my rear license plates so I don't hear it rattle on the bumper, and every single one ends up with rocks and dirt, I re-tape every year. If it was sitting on a painted surface I'd for sure use some spacers to set it out further from the bumper, but it's just a bumper.

    Really a smart design.
     
  12. Oct 16, 2014 at 8:22 PM
    #12
    MTopp

    MTopp [OP] Professional bear handler

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    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Ohhh, well had it for a month or so no problems parking at school. People are stupid though so we'll see. But I never pull into spots really, always back in.

    And I'll have to get some of that foam for the rear plate
     
  13. Oct 16, 2014 at 9:09 PM
    #13
    1993t100

    1993t100 I’m good looking and I drive a Jeep.

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    I might try to replicate this. But at the same time, drilling might just be easier. I don't have a front plate now but it's only a matter of time before I get pulled over for not having one. And IF I ever leave Nebraska while I still own this truck, I would probably get some kind of TRD vanity plate or something for the front.
     
  14. Oct 16, 2014 at 9:19 PM
    #14
    MTopp

    MTopp [OP] Professional bear handler

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    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Haha, yes its easier to just drill bumper, but what about that future lightbar? And yes, could always get a vanity plate or plug old holes. Still thinking about what to do about mine.
     
  15. Oct 16, 2014 at 9:38 PM
    #15
    bolio

    bolio Well-Known Member

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    Very nice. I will do something similar when my new taco arrives so I can place an led there. I used to have a Mitsu Evo 8, and they had a contoured mount that was mounted on the side so the intercooler could get air, might work on a taco.
     
  16. Oct 21, 2014 at 7:24 PM
    #16
    MTopp

    MTopp [OP] Professional bear handler

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    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Yeah, I've seen a few DIY relocations on here
     
  17. Jan 14, 2015 at 5:06 PM
    #17
    MTopp

    MTopp [OP] Professional bear handler

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    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Yeee bump
     
  18. Jan 14, 2015 at 5:13 PM
    #18
    AR15xAR10

    AR15xAR10 AR10 is 5 ARs better

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    Please refer to build (click signature picture)
  19. Apr 1, 2015 at 8:30 AM
    #19
    DixonCreekDrifter

    DixonCreekDrifter Grey Headed Shop Teacher

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    Stock for now
    Glad to know some else finds the stock location for the front plate is distracting. good write up and photos.
     
  20. Apr 1, 2015 at 8:40 AM
    #20
    MTopp

    MTopp [OP] Professional bear handler

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    05 SR5 4x4
    trifecta tonneau, pop n' lock, Depo black bezel headlights, mb 352 wheels, 265/75r16 cooper at3s, visors, colormatched 2011 grille with raptor LEDs, much LEDs in and out Future/wanted: black valence, hood scoop, catback, CAI, 285/75r16s, OMD leaf pack mod
    Thanks and yeah, it was annoying being where it was plus I wanted to put a lightbar behind the lower valence which I haven't done yet, but will
     

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