Gas / Oxygen Air Sensor Question.....

Hi Gang,

I have a 2004 TRD DC V6, and the "Check Engine" light came on.

The garage ran a scan, and told me that it was the gas/oxygen air sensor? I think I have that right. He said that it will hurt my gas mileage and will eventually hurt my cat converter.

I would really like to do this fix myself to save money. Is that easy to do? How much for the part? Any recommendations on the best/cheapest place to buy it?

Thanks so much guys!

 

Take a look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QX0NKEaLG4E and then this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyQuRgQHGCk

If you decide to tackle the job, I'd start here to find your part numbers: http://www.toyodiy.com/

Keep in mind you have 2 sensors - you have an "upstream" and a "downstream". To buy your part(s), I'd start here: http://www.rockauto.com/

Ed

 

Ed,

Thanks for your input!

This video makes it look easy. Is this all there is to it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZBjHy76Pwc

 

Did he tell you which one?

There are two of them. I replaced mine (Bank 1 Sensor 1).

Here's a writeup off my 96 truck.

http://www.lieblweb.com/o2replacement.html

 

Fatherof2 - It's not a hard job, but the instructor makes the point of not just relying on the running of a scan, i.e., he use a meter to test the sensor, etc., etc.

Ed

 

An error on a sensor just means the sensor isnt putting out the data the computer wants. It doesnt mean the sensor is the problem. It may be doing its job and telling you there is a problem upstream of it.

Having said that every o2 code ive had has been a failing sensor.

 

well in the video he is taking something off he already had loose (its a how to video after all so he cant have things not come off lol) it is easy IF you presoak it with wd40 or some other penetrating fluid first, those things get locked on with rust and whatever so they are so tight they will snap off if you don't add something to penetrate and lube the threads first to break the seal. its also good to run the engine for 30-45 seconds to just "warm up" the pipe but you don't want it hot. a cold pipe has a death grip on those threads so if its warm but not hot to the touch it makes life easier. as you unscrew it if you feel it tighten up then turn it back in and then start unscrewing again, sometimes if it starts binding on you you have to make 2 turns out (or stop when it gets tight) and then turn it back in a turn to clear the threads so it comes out without stripping them.

add some electric grease to the wire connection, I didn't do this and got a few false codes after just from a dirty or not so good connection so I went back and added the grease and never got anymore codes. I think without the grease water gets in it and gives strange signals.

 

Great stuff everyone!

I am going to Autozone today to confirm which sensor it is.

I will hit it with WD40 first.

 

Just back from Autozone.

Turns out that it is the Bank 1, Sensor 1......which I guess is on the passenger side.

Is this one a bit more tricky to replace?

 

Take a look at this: https://www.google.com/search?q=ban...=FUA4VIDCMdCrogTTy4GABA&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg

Ed

 

Guys.............I am on Rockauto, and I was wondering if anyone could confirm that this is the right part? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=870733&cc=1429084

Do I need other parts for this job while I am ordering?

What size nuts do I need? I want to replace what I have while I am doing this.

 

Thanks Ed!

 

If it was me, I'd call Rock Auto and ask them to confirm it for you!



For something else, here's how to reach us:
Email: service@rockauto.com
Phone: 1-608-661-1376
Fax: 1-608-819-6350
Toll-Free (North America): 1-866-ROCKAUTO

Office Hours (U.S. Central Time)
Monday - Thursday 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Saturday 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Sunday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Maybe some anti-seize compound?

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...ti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-detail

Ed

 

If that is the correct one you need (upstream or downstream), then yes. I just replaced mine not too long ago. Only pain was access for my large hands. Should be pretty easy

 

Confirmed with Rock Auto!

Man, the garage wanted like 350 bucks to do the job.

Autozone wanted 180 for the part.

The good folks here directed me to Rock Auto where I bought the part for about 110 with shipping!

Thanks everyone!!!!

Part should be here soon. Meanwhile I am hitting the nuts with Liquid Wrench a couple times a day in preparation.

Wish me luck!

Thanks again all!!

 

I just did my upstream 02 a month or two ago. I had to replace the nuts that hold the sensor to the exhaust pipe. Aside from that, get some anti seize, maybe some line wrenches, and a little patience.

 

Do you know what the actual code is? The upstream oxygen sensor hearing element failure code is P0135 and is fairly common and an easy fix.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VW05zlOEvLw

 

Pretty sure the code on my truck was P0031 for bank 1 sensor 1.

 

Hi Gang,

I got the sensor replaced today!

Thanks again to everyone who posted!

One of the keys for me was to soak the bolts and threads of the bad sensor for several days before trying to remove it. I hit the think with liquid wrench 5 or 6 times over the course of several days. The came right off!

It was actually a bit tougher trying to disconnect the plug than it was to get the bolts off. It was very beneficial for me to really examine the new plug so that I was clear on where the tabs were that needed to be depressed to free the connection.

I have a 2004 TRD 4 Door with the 3.4, and the connection was easily accessible from under the truck. It was a quick and easy job that saved me 250 to 300 bucks!

Here is a picture of the bad sensor. You can see is pretty rusty after 120,000 miles! The liquid wrench made that a non event.



New sensor is in! (Not a great picture............sorry.)



The new sensor clipped right in. Getting the old one disconnected was the hardest part. Once you know where to press on the old one, it came right apart. Not difficult if you know where to look.



Hope this helps someone else out.

Thanks again!

 

Hello
I replaced the O2 sensor on my 2004 Tacoma and have driven my truck for a while and the CEL is still on. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks