NO BRAKE LIGHTS, switch and fuses are good

I've got a 2005 Toyota Tacoma 4 cyl 4X4. My brake lights (including 3rd light) aren't working. Tail lights work, as do turn signals and back-up.*
I've checked the fuses inside the truck as well as under the hood, ALL GOOD.
I've also replaced the brake light switch, STILL NO BRAKE LIGHTS!
Could really use some alternate ideas to help figure this out.
P.S.
Just got truck back from dealer after replacing coolant bypass pipe, didn't notice brake lights until next day, don't know if something could have been disturbed when the work was done. (?)

 

You said you checked the fuses, did you replace the one(s) that would impact the brake lights or just visually inspect? If just visual, try replacing them. Do your dash and radio lights work properly? Do you have power where you should with the switch you replaced?

 

I visually inspected the fuses. I'd had an issue with dome/radio lights last week, but replaced the affected fuse under the hood and that corrected the issue. (I'm having issues finding fuses that fit this truck, none at Auto Zone seem to work so I used an included 10amp replacement fuse for the designated 7.5 amp.) I'll call the dealership today to see if they have the right sized fuses so I can replace the designated brake ones to see if that helps. In the meantime, how would I check power to the pedal switch? I'm a newbie, sorry.

 

I would start with a test light. I have not seen that switch or had to replace it but you should have power in and power out. The test light will confirm that the switch is in fact doing it's job and functioing as it should. A test light is just a simple way of checking that you have power, it doesn't tell you how much, just simply that it's there. They're usually pretty cheap and can be used to effectively test fuses and diagnose lots of electrical pieces on your truck. You can use it to check fuses by touching it to the top of the fuse on both sides. If you have power on one side and not the other, the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced.

This is what they look like:

You clip the clamp end to a ground source and touch the probe end to what you think should be a power source. If the bulb lights up, you have power, if not, you don't. If you're going to diagnose this yourself, this can be a very helpful tool and is relatively inexpensive. Basically, if you have power at the fuse, and can confirm the switch is working properly, then your next step is to start chasing wires and looking for a short.

 

Thank you SO much, going to head out and buy one now!

 

It was the #4 fuse under the hood, feel like an idiot, but very appreciative of your help. Thanks again!

 

Was that the fuse you had mentioned replacing recently?

Either way, Pugga is right about visual may not do the trick. I've run into a similar thing where the fuse "looks" good but turned out not to be.

 

The fuse I replaced prior to this was for the interior dome lights and clock on the radio. It was a different one under the hood, #22 (a 7.5 amp)

 

I figured it was another..just didn't recall what they were on our trucks. I only thought of it b/c some years ago I had a car that kept blowing the fuse for radio and brake lights, so it just popped in my skull.

Welcome to TW!

 

Awesome, glad it was just a fuse and you didn't have to start chasing a wiring problem. Trying to find a short in a wiring system can be very frustrating!

 

Thanks ABA180, so glad I found the forum!

 

Pugga, you and me both! The mere thought of chasing down a short was terrifying! My wallet would've suffered dearly on that one ;-)
Thanks again for your help, you made a few of us here happy!