96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

I have a Inconel exhaust duct here in my shop and from looking at it, looks to very difficult to weld. I'm sure there are shops that have better processes to weld Inconel but for a company to produce headers for a limited amount of vehicles tells me that it would be very expensive.

 

I always thought ceramic coating was a good thing, but I guess not? Looks like I need to research the subject a little more.

 

Less heat in the engine bay=more heat in the pipes=drastically reduced header life.

 

I think torsp's said his headers are made of this material. Either way, while the stainless steal is very economical and good non-enthusiast material for headers its not the best for high heat.

The coating IS GOOD to keep the heat contained. The issue is all that heat would be concentrated in your headers causing them to reach extreme temps. Its not gareunteed but the stainless steal can eventually fatigue and crack from all that heat.

If you keep boost low and dont race it, you should be ok, however you generally won't need to bother with the heat sheilding either . I don't plan on wraping or coating mine.

 

This is the short version

Good news is the "log style" headers (used by CxRacing) tend to be able to handle the heat and presure better than the "tube style" headers at the cost of performance.

 

Honestly none of that really applies here since the final boost pressure is going to be pretty low for all of us and SS is easy to weld in the event of a crack or fracture. Our trucks stay a lot cooler than most vehicles under the hood so I'm just not interested in wrapping the exhaust for that reason. I can gain that 5 HP elsewhere.

 

I was more interested in reducing under hood temps, so I'm not scorching everything. Definitely doing a turbo blanket as well.

 

I wouldn't worry about it if I were you. Honestly if I ever wrapped anything it would be the post IC charge pipes to better insulate the cold air inside and MAYBE the downpipe immediately after the turbo only down about a foot just so I don't burn myself when working around the passenger side spark plugs or TB. Everything you don't want to be fried right by the headers were made to get a little fried.

 

So how much have you driven with the turbo? Any difference in gas mileage?

 

No not really any overall difference. Driving to work in the morning takes up most of the gas consumption and then every other time driving I get good mileage (even more so than stock). If I make an effort to drive normal, it will surpass stock mileage because the pistons don't have to work so hard to pull air into the other cylinders. 20+ mpg city is definetely doable if you are willing to take it easy.
I installed the rear mount pretty much around 12 months ago and proper front mount in late August/early October.

EDIT: I should probably elaborate... I mean the addiction of hearing that wastegate open and being sucked into your seat makes it hard to be able to see an overall difference in MPG.

 

Hey guys check out my very temporary $1.99 7th injector! AFR at full boost is exactly 12 so it's nice for those planned highway merges until tax season. Don't judge bros!





Look, I don't even have to take my hand off the shifter to engage it

 

Lol, whaaaaaat.

 

Wha?!?!

I thought you had the URD injector plate?

 

I do... but not the Benjamin's to get the controller just yet.

 

Send a best offer to this guy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-fic-6-N...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cec22671c&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks dude but I'll be screwed for $ for a while. When I do get it, it's going to be the $600 one with the ECU harness and everything to make it easy on myself.

 

Gotcha. See,I wait until I have EVERYTHING before I install

Hopefully Ill be able to get the pan in this week.

 

That boost bug bit me hard man. Really hard. There's no way I could have waited to install everything lol.
So what's up with your front shaft? Bolts stuck?

 

Got the bolts off and working to pull out the diff. The issue was the 1/2" drive socket wasnt' fitting snugly with the bolts and I was starting to strip one. I used a 3/8" socket with an adapter and a swivel to get the breaker bar in there and they weren't too much trouble.

 

You have a second set of hands helping you out removing that front diff, or are you going at it alone?