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Home Improvement Today?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Hotdog, Jul 28, 2008.

  1. Dec 1, 2014 at 1:05 PM
    #3321
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    Lest we forget...;)
     
  2. Dec 1, 2014 at 1:16 PM
    #3322
    Fernridge

    Fernridge Fernridge Fabrication and Designs

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    Just saw this thread!
    note- this has been done through out the year.
    1.tore out fireplace
    2.tore out 8 foot slider door and installed a window in it's place
    3. tore out kitchen
    4. moved kitchen to fireplace corner
    5. tiled floor in new kitchen area
    6. refinished cabinets and installed
    7. poured custom concrete counter tops that are waiting to be installed.
    :cool:
     
  3. Dec 1, 2014 at 2:14 PM
    #3323
    Pchop

    Pchop Beavis Killer

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    Have any pics of these? I really like concrete counters if they are done right.
     
  4. Dec 1, 2014 at 2:55 PM
    #3324
    theredofshaw

    theredofshaw Well-Known Member

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    :worthless:
     
  5. Dec 1, 2014 at 3:00 PM
    #3325
    T4RFTMFW

    T4RFTMFW Well-Known Member

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    I've seen the results of those classes. Quality results, I'd consider the ticket price.
     
  6. Dec 1, 2014 at 3:04 PM
    #3326
    theredofshaw

    theredofshaw Well-Known Member

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    Evil Monkey did his concrete countertops earlier this year after attending one of those classes. See his home renovation thread here:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/ga...evil-monkeys-home-renovation.html#post8253147
     
  7. Dec 1, 2014 at 3:12 PM
    #3327
    theredofshaw

    theredofshaw Well-Known Member

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    Didn't see an Electrician BS thread like we have for the plumbers and had a few questions:


    Current set-up: Normal flip-style light switches, home built in 2011 so all wiring is current and shouldn't have any crazy surprises.

    1) I would like to put my front outside lights on a timer of sorts. Easiest way to attempt this? I tried those dusk-dawn things that you can install under the lightbulb but they suck and didn't work. This light switch has 2 switches, one for outside lights and one for the inside entry light.


    2) In the garage: Currently we have a single overhead bulb (with a motion sensor between bulb and socket) and the garage door light for lighting. I would like to upgrade to a couple of fluorescent overhead shop lights. I would also like to keep the overhead lights on a motion sensor but current method obviously won't work with the new fixtures. This light switch has 2 switches, one for the attic light (don't need that on a sensor) and one for the ceiling light.



    Recommendations on how to proceed or parts and components please!
     
  8. Dec 1, 2014 at 4:04 PM
    #3328
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    Not an electrician, not pretending :D

    The timer switch is easy R&R work in an existing box. They make them for single gang like this digitital.
    http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RPL...1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1417478395&sr=1-1

    I installed an analog one in an existing 2-gang for my dad, who goes catatonic when confronted with buttons.
    http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-KM2ST-1G-In-Wall-24-Hour-Mechanical/dp/B003A4A6P2

    If the box is very crowded, say with 3-way wiring, the fit can be a challenge, but it will work with gentle persuasion.
     
  9. Dec 1, 2014 at 4:09 PM
    #3329
    theredofshaw

    theredofshaw Well-Known Member

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    I imagine that if I go with the digital one, I'll have to replace the 2nd switch that is in the same box to have a proper cover plate but that's not that big of a deal.

    I kind of want to change out all of my switches to this style but don't really have a need to lol
    [​IMG]

    Do you think the new switch + the timer will fit in the box? That's really my only concern for this one. If so, then I think I have the other question solved as well.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2014
  10. Dec 1, 2014 at 6:39 PM
    #3330
    Saskquatch11

    Saskquatch11 TRUCK YEAH

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    [​IMG]
    you should be able to fit the timer switch and entry switch in a 2 gang box, assuming there's less than 9 wires in the box.

    you could get a combination plate if you don't want to change the entry switch.
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...tion-Wall-Plate-White-R52-80405-00W/100357034
     
  11. Dec 1, 2014 at 7:54 PM
    #3331
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    As for question 2.

    You could run 12/2 or 14/2 romex (depending on whats already there, 20 amp or 15 amp) from the electrical box where your single bulb is to the 2 new fluorescent light fixtures.

    Drill holes through your ceiling joist and run the romex to your desired location.

    You could either leave the existing bulb in the socket, or remove the socket and put a box cover on it.

    This will allow those lights to still be controlled by the motion sensor.



    Here is the ask the electrician thread. Its kinda hidden.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/196948-ask-electrician.html
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2014
  12. Dec 2, 2014 at 5:28 AM
    #3332
    guitarjamman

    guitarjamman Well-Known Member

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    Countertops finally in and placed the hardware on the cabinets, along with the microwave. This past weekend, put up the sill and trim for the window, and placed the backsplash - will post a picture after it has been grouted. Also put in anti-slam pieces for each cabinet door - bought them at home depot and they work great. Little spring loaded piston that catches the door and brings it in slowly.

    Finally feel like we are in a new house. Having a working sink and the dishwasher hooked back up is a big step.

    All that is left is to fill in the hole by the upper cabinet to the right of the window (gang box for undercabinet lighting was a little too wide), place quarter round along the gap at the ceiling and wall, crown molding, and tile the floor (which wont happen until next year).

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Dec 2, 2014 at 8:17 AM
    #3333
    Fernridge

    Fernridge Fernridge Fabrication and Designs

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  14. Dec 2, 2014 at 11:08 AM
    #3334
    theredofshaw

    theredofshaw Well-Known Member

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    I assume there is some sort of internal structure (rebar) to those larger pieces? They look HEAVY.
     
  15. Dec 2, 2014 at 11:10 AM
    #3335
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Remesh is usually what I use in smaller pieces like this
     
  16. Dec 2, 2014 at 11:13 AM
    #3336
    Fernridge

    Fernridge Fernridge Fabrication and Designs

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    Yeah there are 2 pieces of 3/8 rebar running the length of each one, as well as some square fence like material that's used in big concrete pads. The 3 smaller ones have about 2 80 pound bags in each whereas the big one has about 4-5 bags in it so that one will be pretty heavy. :D
     
  17. Dec 2, 2014 at 11:14 AM
    #3337
    Fernridge

    Fernridge Fernridge Fabrication and Designs

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    Yes, remesh is what i is called, I couldn't think of the word! Tanks OZ :)
     
  18. Dec 2, 2014 at 11:15 AM
    #3338
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Was it a premixed countertop mix ?
     
  19. Dec 2, 2014 at 11:20 AM
    #3339
    Fernridge

    Fernridge Fernridge Fabrication and Designs

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    I used the Sakrete 5000 high strength mix, not necessarily FOR counter tops, but I've read quite a few walk through's that used it as well.
     
  20. Dec 2, 2014 at 11:23 AM
    #3340
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    I agree, the photocell if hooked up correctly works great. If hooked up incorrectly they won't do their job. We install them often on building lighting. I use them at home for my front lights.

    Typically with motion sensors you have 2 options. One is a wall switch that is a sensor and also has a manual button.

    The other is a ceiling motion sensor wired into the circuit. Those can get more complicated as they sometimes use low and high voltage controls. Some are a simple open/close relay thats wired into the lighting circuit.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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