double dammit full retard

Not too much to the cooling system.
Heater core should have no impact on over heating.

You may be chasing different problems. no heat in the cab and overheating of the engine...

Check the heater core control valve on the firewall and see if it is actually opening when you operate the hvac controls on the dash.

If you're not sure, pull it and slip a piece of 1/2" copper pipe in it so you know the coolant is at least flowing through the heater core.

 

Well that sucks. Along with the previous few posts and from your background I guess you filled it, ran it for a while with the cap off, added coolant as needed, revved it up, added more coolant while waiting to see visual flow in the tank from an open stat.
FWIW I don't test drive a 3.4 after a coolant drain and fill until I get 2 gallons of coolant mix back in. Then it usually takes a few complete warm up/cool down cycles (with driving) to purge the last bit of air.
Have you run water thru the block with the stat out to minimize the chances of blockage in the block? I say minimize because there could be a blockage of some of the smaller passages in the block causing a localized hot spot while still appearing to "flow" coolant. I have found "worms", bits of FIPG (RTV) squeezed out from water pump installs in the coolant drain bucket. A quick back flush might be a good idea while the stat is out.

 

thermostat opened just fine. im gonna grab some food and then do some more trouble shooting. i dont have copper tubing. any other way to see if that valve is opening. btw, bottom hose stayed cold again during over heat. and yeah i ran it without radiator cap. it would only take a gallon of 50/50 till it was full and and even after i ran it till overheat the level was still full.

 

Just pull the hose off one side and look inside on that valve, it's just a simple ball valve. It will either show a 1/2" opening or it won't.

Edit: Even if you still don't feel heat, the hoses should get hot. There is also a blender door involved with that cable setup and that will also block the hot air into the cab. But, I would focus more on why it's overheating, I was just giving you something to check to see if the heater core is blocked or not.

 

There is no denying that the fully drained cooling system holds 2+ gals. So keep that in mind.

 

okay, heater valve opened is functioning as it should be. i went out and looked at saw what you were talking about, put a screw driver through turned off heat it wouldnt, i also. drained the radiator, flushed the block from the top, then put the hose in the t stat housing and fired it up water pump is working, started spewing immediately. put the hose in the radiator where the cap goes, closed the drain valve and plugged the other hole and left the lower rad hose on, as soon as water started entering the radiator it started coming out of the lower hose. almost at the same rate, so im pretty sure the radiator is fine. im gonna try a new thermostat even though this one opened. i really am at a loss right now and what else it could be. water pump is great, water flow through block is great, water flow through radiator is great. so the only culprit left is the goddamn t stat but i boiled it and it moved.

 

Carefully and smartly bore two 1/8" holes in the flange of that T-stat, re-install. If there is not enough room on the flange to bore two and still maintain integrity, bore 1 then.

You know it opens, but I think your still trapping air here and there. The holes are gonna help the bubbles jump and get moving as soon as water moves.

It's gonna have a warmup time increase,,but it's negligible. Operating/idling temp will be achieved as per your work.

It seems you have cleared and fixed all of those systems,,and they flow like they should. Like DP posted,,it holds a bunch of coolant and it's a constant check as you run it up to temp.

Don't jump ship yet,,your almost there and your learning a ton of info,,that will be burned into your skull. Welcome to the club.

 

Personally, at this point I would hook everything back up without the T-Stat and fill it with distilled water and run it for 15 min. If it boils over then for sure you have a major blockage in your engine. If it does not, grab another T-stat and get goin with the Anti-freeze. I read that the T-Stat only goes 1 way.

 

welllllllllp ran to up to advance bought another t stat slapped that bitch in bled the coolant system again and perfecto. heater, temp, everything functioning. i only ran it for about twenty minutes, drove a couple miles but it seems all is good to go. now i need to address the exhaust leak at the manifold where it appears that one of the nuts has fallen off. doesnt really bother me and i dont have to fuck with emissions. and also i have zero power to the head unit. gonna bust out the multimeter and start poking around. first thing i'm doing is pulling out these goddamn subs and two, yes, two amps. anyone wanna buy them? kicker competition series?

 

Yeah!. Was the T-Stat all along.
No Boom for me, old Led Zep / Black Sab listener here.

 

Psh I guess you missed the post about me putting the garden hose in the t stat housing with engine running and nothing coming out the upper Hahaha. Yeah water pump was definitely done had axial play. But seriously thanks to all you guys for your help. if you are in co I'm buying ya beer!

 

I just skimmed through this thread and it sucks that you got fucked over like that. Thumbs up for getting her going and good job for all those that helped.

On another note, did you lose your job?

 

so much went on here to keep track of but didn't you already say at some point that you had already put a new stat in it?

could you tell why it wasn't working? maybe part of that borked up water pump got stuck in it or was it stuck closed as built at the factory?


not that it costs a fortune but I hope you can get your money back on it, they should have replaced it for free if you knew it didn't work.

very strange a basic simple mechanism like a stat doesn't work when new, I would put in boiling water to see if it opens up at all just for the head scratcher that it is. I cant stand not knowing why stuff dont work if its not obvious why its broke lol.