How to Change Front Brakes (Pads and Rotors)

Thanks for the link and how-to video, Peter. Went ahead and bought one.

Any reason you didn't use the shims when putting the new pads in? If you were to use the shims, would the anti-sieze go on the outside of the shims, or inbetween the pads and shims?

 

FYI, you should NEVER use anti-sieze on any pad or shim. The shim (or sometimes called the anit-vibration shim) is there for a reason. You can buy and put some "brake squeak" material (buy at parts store) and put that on the shim. Use the anti-sieze for the slider and metal to metal contacts and bolts. You don't need much either.

 

Ok, getting a little confused there. Probably over thinking it, but if there is place to overthink things, it's the brakes.

Does this brake squeak get applied to the outside of the shim (where it contacts the pistons)?

 

IIRC I am fairly certain the kit I bought said not to use them. When I did my Dads tundra we just replaced his pads with Toyota pads and I reused the shims.

Sliders should use silicone paste. Especially floating calipers where the pin is internal.

The Anti-seize I used was the 3M copper stuff that can be used a brake lubricant. As you can see in the video I put it on the sides where the pad slides and on the back of the pad.

 

Yes. You can apply the material on the back of the pad and/or shim. It's suppose to help eliminate squeaks on some materials. Just put a small amount on the back of the pad where it may contact the caliper and piston area. Don't overdue it, but a nice small bead is plenty. Some brake manufactures ask that you use the shim in place of the paste material as it acts as the squeak deadener. You won't hurt anything using both.

 

Damn! I paid way too much for that tool.

 

thank you

 

mine just showed up on my front porch yesterday (my wife "ordered" them for Christmas) i, i mean she, went ahead and ordered me some shoes for the rear too as they have been getting pretty loud. ill be pretty busy between Christmas and New year's

 

Couple of items: use an old cookie sheet to keep your things in order and one place, use a catch basin to catch all the brake clean residue and junk from contaminating the floor or whatever you're working on (this is considered hazardous waste) and dispose of properly, oh, NEVER EVER clamp the brake hose line. It may look good on the outside but it's the inside that does the work and does break down (no pun) over time or damage. And, you actually should bleed your brakes after changing as well as every two years or so. Brake fluid attracts moisture and will affect it's capabilities. If you ever wonder why your fluid turns dark, it's because it's been contaminated. Like changing your oil, it's cheap maintenance.

 

Good idea on using a cookie sheet!


I agree with your information about the brake fluid and lines.

I am going to be doing a brake fluid flush video at some point.


As for clamping on the brake line hose. I definitely would say it is not ideal. It is important if you do, to make sure not to crush the line. This is what I have used in the past. You don't need to clamp it very hard at all.

[/url]Untitled by pmdesan, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

Nothing I'll be doing soon but throwing you rep and thank you! I have much respect for people who take time to do write-ups! Helps a lot dude!

 

Thanks!

 

OK. Let me help you and others out. I've been in this business for over 40yrs. Most of it running a heavy equipment fleet. When you crush (at any point) a brake hose, you do damage to the inside. Ever wonder why no fluid comes out of a bleeder when the others seem to work fine (given the fact the bleeder is clear of obstruction) or the fact the brakes don't seem to work on one side, check the hose. My guess is you'll find it bad, although it looks good on the outside. Brake hoses will fail on the inside and we've seen it countless times.

So, why would you tell someone to clamp the hose? I'm not trying or implying that your video is flawed, because a lot of it is pretty good. Just let people know the correct procedure before saying something. I know you say to do this at your own risk, but why give them a head start.

Flushing your brake system is no different than changing oil. It's good maintenance and something everyone overlooks. You should flush/change the fluid at every brake service and also every two to three years (even if you use the high dollar stuff). Brake fluid attracts moisture and that's what does damage to your entire system.

If you take some of the fluid out of the master cylinder prior to starting your brake job, when you press the piston(s) back into the caliper, the fluid will simply go back into the reservoir. When done, flush the system and get the old out and new in.

I hope you don't take this wrong because all I'm doing is educating you and others so you don't do needless damage.

 

Front pads done,
Couldn't be easier. Good write-up!

 

Im up soon

 

First off great video. A couple of things I have learned along the way I would like to add. After you put the rotor back on, sometimes, they do not like to stay on perfectly. All you need to do is put on 1 or 2 lug nits hand tight to hold the rotor in place. You may need a few washers if the lug nuts bottom out before they tighten up all the way. Second is go to the 99cent or dollar store and buy small plastic bins. They usually come 3 or 4 in a pack. Keep them near you when you work and place all your nuts/bolts and pieces/parts in them so you can keep track of them.

 

Loaded taco great post
I can't believe nobody saw the OD Glock 26 or 27 in a crossbreed holster.

 

Everything you have said has been received loud and clear. I will not advise anyone to clamp the break lines. I am not a mechanic so I appreciate the advice.

Now if more people would listen to advice this peacefully we would all be a little smarter.

Excellent! That is what I want to hear.

Good Luck!

Good call I will add that in the instructions and in future videos.

I was wondering when people were going to notice that. You were a little off. It is a White Hat holster carrying my 26. lol Good eye!

 

Great vid, just ran across it on YouTube and wondered if you were in here... lol. Which EBC rotors and pads are you using, part numbers by chance? How are they doing? Do you do any towing? I'd like better braking performance, especially when towing.

 

Hey yeah the Part Number for the kit is in the beginning of the video. It definitely improved my braking power. I would say swap some stainless lines in with this and you will be golden. I do tow a decent amount, but nothing that heavy.