Wideband AFR Install Help

i have recently purchased a wideband AFR, i installed everything up to getting the bung welded in and the sensor hookup.

i went to the muffler shop where i go often for welding, they quoted me about $240 to weld in the bung after header pipe but before catalytic converter.

reason being was because they would need to unbolt the manifold to take pipe off and weld in the location per specs of Wideband AFR. there was not enough room for them to weld in location as is and also to eliminate shavings when they had to drill hole near cat.

$40 for weld in bung
$200 for manifold/header unbolting and back on


they also said that toyota's have a habit of snapping header bolts???

i think they are telling me the truth to this, but was just double checking if this was 100% accurate about est price and header issues?

 

If you're going to install before the cat I recommend doing it both sides to be accurate. Kinda defeat the purpose if you only do one side of the engine.
Another easier route would weld the O2 sensor after the catalytic where the Y-pipe merge together. You would only be .2-.4 off. Not a big deal really. Also it would be easier to get to and no need to remove the Y-pipe.

Just remember to set the bung at either 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock position so the condensation doesn't damage the O2 sensor in the long run.

Or..... better yet go with a weldless O2 sensor bung. Comes in 2-2.5" and 2.75-3" piping sizes. You just need to drill the hole and bolt the weldless bung to it. Done!


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-2355-300

It's cheaper on ebay, that's where I got mine from

 

I haven't had any issues with any of my Toyota's header bolts snapping off. Sounds like they want to make an excuse just in case they do snap them off. Some PB Blaster or WD40 works wonders. I'd take it to another shop for 2nd quote IMO.

 

Ive been thru stock manifolds, long tube headers, shorty headers (as 1 knows the install process requires many mount and dismounts) with ZERO issues with the studs.

 

Lord Helmet, i think the weldless bung strap is an excellent idea. i did not even think about looking for that option.
since it'll be only .2-.4 off, i can definitely deal with that.
i'll repost once the job is complete.
thanks

 

No problem. Do post pics when you get the chance

 

Save yourself $200 and remove factory manifold at home. Also, you might want to avoid installing a bung in the stock manifold if you plan to install some aftermarket headers down the road.

For ease, just go ahead and install into y-pipe. As mentioned, you'll still be in the ball park of afr.

 

Installed sensor by using No Weld band clamp. took a few minutes , no leaks and works like a charm.

the only part i am not happy about is when i am driving and let off the gas (to come to a stop), the sensor will register as 20 lean, and the gauge will start blinking. this will happen for a few seconds until the truck comes back to normal idle. a little annoying specially when it is dark out.

 

Looks good but how far back did you install the weldless bung? Also which brand AFR gauge kit did you get? That might help us help you

 

right after Y pipe. both gauges are glowshift brand

 

Not a fan of glowshift anything. Can you see what brand O2 sensor they used? It might be the issues of glowshift using lesser quality parts for this critical item for the AFR kit. Better and accurate wideband brands I would use would be AEM or Innovate. I like this new part by Innovate:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/scg1.php

 

I believe that's normal cause mine does the same Thing. It would go past 17 lean and blank out on my aem gauge. Then go back to the 14.7-15 area when back at idle.

 

x2 just normal operation of the gauge my full sweep electric autometer does the same thing.

 

Lord Helmet, it's a Bosch LSU 4.9 Wideband Oxygen Sensor.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Black-Face-Wideband-Air-Fuel-Gauge.aspx

 

Here's email response from glowshift. so i guess all is normal.

----

Hello Jeff,

Thank you for contacting us. With the engine in a deceleration mode, the engines does lean out quite a bit and this is normal to see this going to 20 and blinking until you do reapply the throttle.

Thank you
Justin

 

So even if I were to go At the y AFTER all 4 cats my number would only be .2-.4 off?

 

And would it show more lean then actual or more rich than actual?

 

Mine (innovate) shows 22 AFR and it's absolutly normal. Fuel cut off on decelaration.

 

22 at wot correct?

 

Euhhhh no.

FUEL CUT OFF ON DECEL.