Clutch replacement, help please

I'm starting today because I have time. I'm hoping to finish the day after Christmas.

I'm mostly following these instructions: I'm having trouble with the drive shaft. I've broken the nuts loose (drive shaft, not mine) but there are bolts there that refuse to yield. They aren't weld to/part of the flange on the t-case, are they? It sure looks like they need to come out to get the drive shaft out of the way.

Further back, the drive shaft appears to have a joint (carrier bearing?). Do I need to . . . . do something here to get the drive shaft out of the way?

Thanks guys

 

pictures would be a big help.

It makes things easier to drop the whole drive shaft. 4 bolts at the t-case flange, 2 bolts holding the carrier bearing in and 4 bolts at the rear axle flange.

 

Here's a picture. Meanwhile, I'll go see about the other bolts you mentioned. I had intended to just adjust the drive shaft, but if the whole thing needs to come down then that's what I'll do.

 

Yeah, you'll want to drop the whole drive shaft. Start with the rear axle flange and work forward. This will let you slide the drive shaft off the t-case flange.

You'll want the room anyways for when you slide the transmission back.

 

Thanks, TomTom. I got it. The rear shaft is off to that joint just behind the carrier bearing (that's what that thing is called, right?). Front shaft is loose. When I back the transmission I expect I'll be ok with it.

Moving on . . .

 

Gotta quit for the day. Have a Christmas party to go to.

I've got 4 bell housing bolts out. How many more are there? I think I feel two more up on top. How do you get to them?

Merry Christmas,

Matt

 

a couple of long extentions and a wiggler end.

 

2 more on top. Can go through the floor hole. It helps to have a buddy underneath to keep the socket on the bolt head.

 

when I did my drive shaft on my 95, those bolts you show going through the flange are knurled like on the lug nut studs that go on the wheels, not meant to turn,

 

Bolts are just corroded in, put a nut on and smack with hammer.

 

they are pressed in as pulldo noted.

No reason to take them out unless they get damaged.

OP already got it removed. Just have to break at the carrier bearing then slide the front section off the bolts.

 

I think you need to go back and check your facts before recommending to someone the improper way to do something. Those bolts, as mentioned, are press-fit like a wheel stud. This is the same on ALL of the rear driveshaft connections for the Tacoma since 1995. Both first AND second generation.

 

I also have a fuzzy recollection of being able to get at the top driver side bolt just by reaching up past the clutch hydraulics but as I said, it is a bit fuzzy.

 

on mine, I got to the top bolts (17mm head) with a 1/2 in drive socket and breaker bar. I had to use a pipe to give me enough leverage to loosen them. there should be 2 large bolts on right side which hold a bracket to the exhaust. Two bolts that hold in the starter on the left side. and another bolt above the starter. Of course, the ones on the bottom- 2 thread in from the engine side. they are the easiest to get.

 

also, don't forget to take of the bell housing debris/inspection plate. Should be 4 bolts, either 10mm or 12mm heads (can't remember exactly). Forgot when I did mine and then ran into trouble when trying to pull the transmission back.

 

I got one of the top two off, but the one above the slave cylinder . . . OMG. I'd hate to pay someone $1000 just because of one bolt, but that thing is really hard to get to.

JudoJohn, I don't see anything from the transmission bolted in any way to the exhaust system, the starter is on the passenger side, and the only thing I see threading in from the engine side is the plate that TomTom is talking about. Are you sure you're referring to a 1st gen truck (2003)?

In the process of trying to get this last one out I broke something, too. This thing:

Which broke off of here:


What the hell is it and do I have all the parts (metal cap and a spring)?

Edit: Forgot to tell you. I freaking hate those swivels. All flex, no torque. Just damn.

 

looks like a vent cap?

Did the clutch kit come with the clutch disk with 6 center springs or 4? the reason I ask is I just found out the "dealer installed" clutch was actually a refurbished pressure plate! It was don't before I bought the truck but with 30k on it im going to be doing the clutch sooooon.

thanks

 

it is a vent cap.

Sorry, mine is a 1st Gen (1996) with a 2.4

 

Ok. Here is my piece of advice.

I have a 2nd gen and thought long and hard about replacing the clutch myself. I added up all the parts (including the TSB for a Gen 2 throw out bearing) and I was up to $800. Parts were from URD.

Dealer did it for $1150 - plus $600 for the fly wheel (my bad). Guess I got to stop towing heaving things.

It boils down to was it worth it for $400 to spend 2 weeks dicking around with the clutch or leave it to those that replace it every day.

The did a GREAT job (Bobby Rahal). Replaced all the nuts, bolts, gaskets, etc... with new. Also re-did the slave cylinder line since it was rusted.

Love the new clutch. It is BETTER than than new.

Good luck. I admire you for taking a crack at it. The rust threw me and I knew it would take me a while to get past it. Took them 6 hrs - jeez.

 

breather valve. It can wait to be fixed.

I don't recall having to use any universal joints on the ratchet when getting to the top two bell housing bolts. At most, I used a couple long 3/8" drive extensions.

If you've taken out the transmission crossmember, you may be able to lower the transmission (tilting the engine) to get better access to them.

Have you looked at getting at the top driver side one from either the engine bay or from below, by the clutch hydraulics? I seem to recall having enough room by the clutch hydraulics to torque it back up when I reinstalled.