Stereo system TAKE TWO!

there is a annoying bracket that u need to build a cap for

Im building another new one today. Ill send a picture of the basis of what it looks like

 

There is a stiffening bar, about half-way up the back of the back wall. This will need to be either cut out, or, definitely easier, built around. It has the child seat anchors welded to it, so you need to take those into account as well. Not a big deal, and if you go ported, you can easily build a cut-out in the box to fit around those no problem.

As for the dimensions of my box, I may have put them in the thread I linked earlier, I don't remember them now. My rear seats still fold flat, but I've removed the plastic from the back of them. Two reasons. One, the sub would contact the plastic, and buzz so bad. Two, the subs have an easier time breathing, by that I mean the soundwaves pass through the seats easier, which is important in a sealed box.

When I bought my subs, all manethon had was the 12" sub. I don't think he had, or mentioned the 8". If I had to do it over again, I would probably go with two 8's, mounted on the passenger side, and a flared vent on the drivers' side. The 12's hit low, but with a vented box, you'll get lower than I could ever hope to. Don't get me wrong, I love my 12's, I'm going to beat on them until they die, if they ever do, they are almost bullet-proof in construction, but I almost, sometimes wish I had the vented option of the 8's, which would give some better low end. I have to boost the bass a little to get the low end to really shake the truck, but GOOD GAWD, does it ever shake. I also need to pull out my interior, and deaden the floor of my truck. I've got 40 sq.ft. of ShokMat to do it, just dealing with my knee, and being lazy, I haven't gotten around to it yet. I've got a double layer of deadening in the doors and roof, just need to do the floor. I'll have to wait til spring or summer to do that though.

You should be able to find some good blueprints to follow on the site here to build a box, out of 1/2" MDF or birch plywood, and get a couple 8's and a vent in the back of your truck, and still have the seats fold down, and maybe even keep the plastic on the back of them. You wouldn't even have to worry about spacing the top locking brackets like I did. I had to build deep, the 12's are something like 6 7/8" deep, so I had to space the seat-back out some. manethon may even be able to give you some specs on a box that would fit the 8's with a good flared vent on the drivers' side, and allow you to keep your seats just where they are.

 

I will gladly provide him with the dimensions for the 2 8 inch tritons.
Ill email it all to him when we finalize the deal

 

So, how do I tune a ported box?

 

Well,
If you order the port I sent you a link for,
All you need to do is adjust the length. It's a complex formula but lots of online calculators available. Imo, buy an extra 4 inch PVC pipe and use that till you find the exact tuning( pipe length ) and copy the length to ur permanent one.

 

Thought I'd leave this here... The tightly packaged Triton 8" in all its glory

 

Going ported. You'll love the performance, I hope you enjoy to the fullest. And don't forget to post before and after shots. I love seeing gear installed.

 

You bet! but just know it's going to be PAINFULLY slow because I won't be able to get dimensions until I get back to school. That and I'm poor lol

 

I'm in the process of installing my 149bt today. Everything is soldered up and I'm waiting for the aswc wiring harness to be delivered today. I hooked it up for a few minutes to check it out and there are a ton of audio settings I'm going to have to learn. The volume at 13 sounds like the stock unit at 30 though

 

Nice head unit. I have one too. The TCR setting is very useful and enjoyable. Don't forget the TuneIt app! Playing with the settings on this HU can easily fill one afternoon. Goodluck. Godspeed.

 

So I'm having a little trouble getting the organizers out from the back. Everything (I believe) holding the organizers to the 'wall' in the back has been removed, but it seems like something is holding them in between the two organizers.

 

one needs to be removed before the other. I believe the drivers side overlaps the passenger side.

make sure you've explored all things that could be holding them in place. I believe there may be a few 'hidden' screws.

 

I'm considering that I just taking out the backseats tomorrow. That way I can see a little better what might be holding them together or to the frame.

 

I should have the donor truck with me early Feb,
Then i can do a full build post to provide all details your requesting.

I would use my truck but in all honestly its been gutted for the last 6 years since i had a wall in there so there is almost no evidence left of anything pertinent nor can i remember.

 

You shouldn't have to take the back seat out. I built a temp box for my truck a couple weeks ago and was able to remove everything without removing the seat.

 

I shouldn't think I'd have to. I just wish I could find whatever is holding it in

 

When in doubt rip it out
Just remove any visible screws and if there are any clips remaining they will pop.

 

The seat bracket will be an obstruction in the lower part of the box. You'll have to build around it.

 

http://youtu.be/yEcowYsoW-c This video went about taking off the organizers by taking off the top part of the seats.

EDIT: Got em off today. It was easier taking off the bottom part of the seats but I didn't need to. Now to work on getting those brackets off and deadening that wall

 

Can anyone send me some blueprints to build a dual 10" or 12" box to fit behind the backseat of a 2012 doublecab. Preferably a dual 12" setup if possible