Low RPM + Oil Light

You reset your idle with it all hooked up and vaccum leaking there at the PCV?.

 

I didnt reset idle, no. The ECU might need to self adjust Im going to pull the TB out and clean it and the IAC next weekend. Idle should be fine then. Engine still runs very smooth though.

 

Strange that a vac leak would effect oil pressure, idle speed yes. Many of those cans come with vac leaks at no extra charge.

 

Its not the can, its the PCV valve. Had a very rough idle for as long as I can remember but I never noticed until I installed my can. I initially ran it with a vent and just capped the intake manifold but the blow by gasses were getting into my vents.

I decided to clean up the PCV valve and hook the can back up to the intake. Didnt have the horrible idle so I figured the valve wasn't leaking anymore. I guess it still was

Don't know why it was causing the oil light to come on, just happy its off

 

Yep, even the ones that require a loan to own. Vac pumps also,,there not immune. Try and find that leak off with a billet unit that's not supposed to,,sucks bigtime, literally.

 

Yep, in my case the can had way in excess of 60 machined surfaces, I lost count. A good deal of them were for aesthetics yet they couldn't provide a simple groove for the only o-ring in the entire thing. What a joke.

 

I paid 10$ for an ebay can, and did another $10 in mods... Retarded that ppl still pay $50+ for catch cans

 

It is not even slightly unusual for the pressure switch to go bad with age you need to hang a gauge on it, talk is cheap find out first if there really is a problem. They are not known for oil pressure issues. It should about stall before the light comes on no matter what is causing it .

 

Worn tool chatter on a very thinly machined surface caused microscopic stress cracks that opened when warmed up. That pump made several trips across the continent trying to get it right.

 

Now that your idle is higher, your oil pressure light won't come on. Whatever was causing the light to come on is still there, if the rpm drops back down.
But, like was said, get a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Maybe the sensors are that sensitive that they come on below 600RPM, normally. Doesn't sound right to me, but who knows.

Don

 

Problem was fixed

RPM's are lower now, not higher

Could be the overall crank pressure was off due to my setup. A positive or negative crank pressure may affect overall oil pressure

 

The engine is vented there is no+ or - other wise the PVC would suck all the seals and gaskets out or the combustion pressure would blow them out.

 

I missed the word LOWER and was remembering your earlier posts where you thought it was idling at about 500 when the oil light came on. If its now idling LOWER than that 500 and the oil light is not coming on, you must have good oil pressure.
If your idle was so "jumpy" that you weren't sure what the idle was, that would likely have been a vacuum leak issue somewhere in the intake area, like a PCV, bad intake gasket, etc.
Is your idle now stable? The tach needle should hardly move when it idles, it should not bounce all over the place.

Don

 

Not exactly. The blow by would give it a positive pressure thus needing the PCV (positive crank vent) valve to release. Crank pressure should be slightly higher than atmospherics I would think. I don't know much more beyond this except to say when the catch can is hooked up, oil light comes on at idle.

So Im assuming somehow the crank pressure is lowered or even negative. Since the oil pan shares the same atmospherics as the crank, maybe the negative pressure is creating a suction action on the oil and working against the oil pump? I may be over thinking this...

Idle was/is smooth and not very jumpy. Tach needle didnt move at all

I'm going to chock this one up as a mystery for now; making my head hurt.

 

"maineah" is absolutely correct.

The system is wide open to filtered atmospheric pressure air. This "open" point is the hose running from the rear of the intake tube just ahead of the t-body to the rear of the driver side valve cover. The PCV valve works on manifold vacuum not pressure. It allows a small controlled amount of manifold vacuum to draw blow by gasses out of the engine at the pass side valve cover while fresh filtered air is allowed to enter at the driver side valve cover. Hence the crankcase is ventilated.
Finding oil in that inlet hose ahead of the t-body is a dead giveaway of a malfunctioning PCV valve or a worn engine producing more blow by volume than the valve can handle.

That's not retarded, below is retarded. Both of these set ups are doing absolutely nothing other than taking up space and causing problems. Sort of funny no one picked up on this in the guys build thread.