Which rear end for an upgrade?

Any thoughts on this kit?
http://www.tundraracing.com/rbck.htm

Or this one, uses drum ebrake.
http://www.tundraracing.com/proseriesprerunner.htm

 

Hey I have that bumper, too! One thing I really want to caution you about with that bumper is that it is a total BEAST. It is the heaviest of all of the front bumpers out there. Plus the matching Skid Plate (you should REALLY get the matching skid plate, as your factory plate does not work with it) you're looking at 139lbs if you get a center hoop and 149lbs if you get the center hoop with headlight hoops. The skid plate is another 50lbs.

It wraps my front end and belly in just under 200lbs of .5/.25" thick steel.

It also made my OME Nitrocharger shocks with long 887 springs sag pretty badly after 5000 miles ... so I'm upgrading to with the 14"/700lb coil upgrades.

Your build looks frigging sweet and I'm jelly of that new rear end.

 

Hmm. I bet the one with the drum would work better as an "emergency" brake. I hear the disk brake version is more of a parking brake and easy to overload. Personally, I keep my brake system in working order and don't even have a parking brake.

 

I need a good ebrake, specially with the manual trans. I'm too lazy to pull apart my old axle assembly just for the backing plates. Trying to decide on buying new ones or up grading to discs before having the new axle bearing assemblies pressed together.

 

Disks are nice, just don't forget to factor in Prop valves too. I'm running 04 taco front disks in the rear and they are a pretty close match to the front, I'm only two turns in on the prop valve to get a balanced F&R lock. It does stop a hell of a lot faster now...although I don't know that it's worth the $ unless you are doing a lot of high speed asphault driving.

 

Im not sure if discs are worth the $$ since the rear of the truck is so light, it's the tire weight that effects my braking I think. The linked conversions claim to work with the existing master, I don't want to plumb in a prop valve really. Not sure how it would effect the ABS? I don't feel comfortable deleting the ABS all together, this truck is my daily driver and even though I feel it hurts braking in most cases, I worry about the liability if I was involved in a collision. My plan is to leave the any-time-locker-mod in place and use it as an ABS cancel since the new diff has an ARB.

 

I've too busy to work on the truck very much, I did order new drum brake backing plates and the hardware needed to get the hubs pressed onto the axles. I will hopefully get the axles together and bolted in this sat. I need to measure for the driveline next as I want to have that in place before welding the anti wrap bar in, I also ordered BAMF's shock relocate brackets.
Here's a couple pics of what progress has been made:

 

You can't just knock the backing plates off the factory axles? If you slam them down on concrete a few times they'll bust loose...

 

I can, but hope to rebuild the stock rearend for a future project or maybe stuff into my old 4Runner.
I bought backing plates but because I'm not reusing anything from my old axles I needed a few other items. Since the assembly from Currie assumes using parts from my original, it only came with new retaining rings, I needed to buy the conicle washers, snap rings, drum oil defector plate and gasket, serrated axle studs and nuts, and the O rings.

 

Due to the width of the center section, looks like I'll have to cut the muffler off to position the anti wrap bar. Problem is, that dosent leave much room for a replacement.

 

Dump it at the back of the cab? These projects are always a good time.

 

Put the anti wrap bar as close to the thrid member as possible, and use a smaller muffler.

 

That is the plan, I'm going to remove the whole exhaust and replace it after everything else it together.

 

4 trips to the steelership to finally get the correct brake parts. Now I'm having problems locating .75" longer wheel studs with the larger Knurled shoulder for the 35 spline axles. Hoping to hear back from Currie tomorrow, the axles came with stock length studs so I'm hoping they can come up with longer ones for me. Damn delays are killing me, I want my truck back!

 

Measure them and go with ARP's. I prefer the ones with the quick start snouts on them. (I'm running studs intended for a Toyota Celica) http://arp-bolts.com/kits/product.php?PL=55

 

I bought the Celica ones (

$40 100-7718 Wheel Stud Kit for Toyota

100-7718) and then found out the knurl dia is wrong with those. I measure Kurl dia of .594", knurl length .40" max, for what I need, might have to call tech to figure it out. Can't find anything with the overall dimensions of those Celica GTS with the right knurl dia.

 

What I found out is that Currie drills their 9" axles .594" and uses wheel studs with a knurl Dia of .610. They don't know where their supplied studs come from apparently, I'm very unimpressed with Currie's customer service all together, more so their tech line. How they don't know who their hardware supplier is baffles me, neither Cuurie, ARP, or Dorman can even find a stud size made by anyone that Currie supplied me with originally, which is the correct stud, only too short. My advise for anyone doing this swap, pick your wheel studs first and have your new axles drilled to the appropriate size.
I'm forced with using the only stud available, from a late model mustang. I hate not having the same lug nuts as the front, but I have no choice.

 

That sucks man. I have heard of guys welding the holes up, shifting the pattern over, and re-drilling but I'm sure you are just tired of dicking with it. Reading stories like this is why I ended up with a complete Toyota based axle.

 

If I would have thought about it early on, I would have ordered the holes drilled to the specs I needed. It's something I completely overlooked and it's not anyone's fault really. Currie drills all their stuff the same, even if you order a Rock Jock or Toyota replacement, the axles are just pulled from stock and cut to length. It's something I will mention to John at AllPro, because all this could have been avoided by ordering them drilled for those Celica GTS studs. I would guess everyone that's going to spend this much coin is running aftermarket wheels and the factory stud length is not enough, mostly because of those goofy long shank lugs Toyota uses.

 

Why don't you just have new holes drilled in the axles, in-between the existing ones? Any machine shop should be able to do that. There is plenty of space there. Some axle makers even ship their axles with both a 6 lug pattern and a 5 lug pattern.

This is hardly a big issue ????