New Parts Install Party?

Ok. This is my 1st post! I'm in Tempe at Rural/Elliot area. I have done nothing really to Mod the performance of this truck except a cheap air tube. I build a platform to replace the rear jumpseats for my dogs and put a topper on it and wired up some LEDs in it. That's it. I bought the truck with 68k miles on it and just changed the plugs at 160k! I know I know... So now its time to be nicer to it.... SO............

I just received new 5100's for all corners... upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, control arm bushings, rack bushings, shackles, and will probably need to replace the center driveshaft mount too.. Maybe bearings a good idea now that I'm at 170k? I haven't replaced the timing belt or anything yet... the valve covers are leaking too but I'll probably wait until it cools down for that stuff.

I pulled the truck into my garage and its about 4 inches too short to be able to close up the garage in case I don't get it all done in a day... and/or to compress springs and press in/out bushings... or if I need to run to the part's store.

I can do it at my place if I can get a reliable spring compressor and press brought in. I was going to buy a press on craigslist but nothing in the $100 range. (I was just going to sell it for the same after using it)

If nobody is down for the heat I will probably just replace the center shaft bearing and call it good until it cools off. Bad shocks in Tempe don't bother me much since its all flat around here

Let me know. Send a PM - I'm looking forward to meeting some Taco guys. I used to be really active in the local Camaro groups but the 3rd Gen Camaro crowd started to not be guys I had much in common with. Mullets and missing teeth aren't my crowd (but no way I'll sell my 92 redneck mobile.!).

 

Welcome man, I'm sure we can get some mod days and get it knocked out. I would venture to say... don't try to do all of that in one day... that's a pretty heafty list. Unless they're critical I'd also recommend waiting until it cools off, I'm so burned out doing work to my truck in the heat the past few weeks (no choice).

Check the Monday Meet thread, not always but a fair amount of monday's we usually get a group to chill and chow down.

 

thanks... yes i think i've decided to throw the rear shackles and shocks on tomorrow, along with the center support bearing.

then maybe sunday i will throw the front shocks on and see if i still have a shake at 65-70.

if so - then maybe monday I'll go in and finish the rest.

the ball joints and control arm bushings. They seem ok but I thought... While I'm in there....


Randomly turns out that a neighbor was installing his 5100's today so I watched the process a bit. Made me nervous about doing mine but after thinking about it more, they had some other hiccups due to a previous lift and no stock top plates. Trying to install 5100's AND a top plate spacer makes for a lot of preload on a spring and they weren't able to get them installed.

Anybody have thoughts on using a bottle jack to compress the spring while the bottom is bolted in? Saw the method on youtube vs. using a spring compressor. dangerous???

 

welcome and im not to saveey on this stuff but would love to learn in case i need to do those things

 

Personally, I would NEVER do any ghetto working with coils, the spring potential is extremely dangerous with them. Use the proper tool for the job.

 

Yea just go to autozone and rent a spring compressor for free.

 

Guess I should start a build thread...

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-builds/290350-stock-nic914az-02-prerunner.html

 

Did you get to the front coils yet?
I have a spring compressor we have used on over 20 sets of springs and no broken bones so far ( Chris 4X4 was not allowed to use it )

I am only in town till Wed. this week so if you need it let me know soon.

 

Hey Nic,

You are actually right around the corner from me.

As far as the springs.. safety is always first... BUT.. I have used a floor jack to compress the coil enough to loosen the top bolt.. then slowly lower the jack and Viola. Me and another member actually did it on my truck a while back swapping my suspension out.

 

http://youtu.be/vkVLBOnAifc

 

{check the build thread for pics soon}

got the springs in just now. 103 in the garage. Lots of gatorade today. F.

Taco TX, that is the video I was referring to yes... And that's the way I did it. Just to be safe I used a ratchet strap to hold the spring to the frame in that rare occasion that the jack slips off the bottom control arm/balljoint mount.

It worked flawlessly. I discussed this with a rat rod guy at an OReilly auto around the corner on Mclintock. He's got a few pretty sweet old cars and seemingly a good amount of wrench time. He warned against this method but after discussing it for a bit and referring to older vehicles without coilovers... this is exactly how you released tension on the springs so... I don't see the big deal.

At no point was I in fear for my life and if it did fly i was in front of the truck with the jack and I can only assume the spring would attempt to exit out the side of the truck if it did somehow get away.

It worked. I'm glad I did it this way.

One thing! And I can't believe this but the new Moog/555 lower ball joint on the driver's side... one of the 4 bolts stripped out in the spindle while torquing to only 42ft/lbs. WTF!?

When I take it to a shop for the alignment I think I'm going to have to have them cut off the rear drivers lower control arm alignment bolts - they're seized. Might as well then have them install my lower poly bushings on that side. I got the uppers in. PTA!

I didn't end up doing the tie rods, they felt tight as can be and the ball joints felt good too but all the boots are blown out. I only did the shock on the passenger side.

so still left to do.
Lower control arm bushings
Upper passenger control arm bushings
Steering Rack bushings

upper ball joints (I destroyed the boot on my driver side and couldn't get it pressed out. had to put it back together just to be able to get it to a shop.so... yes, another job for a real shop!)

Passenger lower ball joint.

I think I'll send the tie rods back to RockAuto unless anybody here needs them.

 

btw..

Lifesaver!

 

pics up on the build thread GOOGLE+ Picassa Album Link.

 

It is really frustrating for me to not have been able to knock this out but between the heat, my smaller garage, and a few unforseen hiccups (which always happen)... I broke down and took it to a local shop. I just didn't really feel like I was going to manage the upper and lower ball joints - I tried. For the one upper that I did try, I couldn't get itto press out with the 3 arm puller and the pitman arm press - I wasn't in the mood to modify and then potentially not have it work out. The lower seemed easy except that 1 bolt closest to the drivers door stripping out. I think perhaps the Moog kit does not come with longer bolts as there should be for the outer 2 going into the steering knuckle?

So for that, which I'm still a little miffed about but I'll get over it...

I took it to a place on Priest in Tempe called - Yota Pros.
http://yotapros.com/about-us/

I actually heard from Mike 3 times today with progress updates. Absolutely great customer service. Truly seem like an honest couple of owners who are down to earth guys just trying to do right and still make money, also a really clean looking facility.

Cost = $475 (75 was the alignment) total to install the upper poly bushings on the passenger side, replace both upper ball joints, replace the passenger lower ball joint and fix the bolt on the drivers. I would have argued for a bit lower but I give 'em credit for doing something out of the usual where I'm sure it was a real hour that it probably took to torch out and wire wheel the sleeves that stay in for the upper poly bushings.
Also considering I brought in my own parts so they didn't make anything there. I'll take it. It turns out he was able to break loose the cam bolts without having to do anything major. The benefit of being under the truck with the right tools I think.

Desert rat's hourly was 10 bucks cheaper but they couldn't get to until Friday and I didn't get a total quote from them as my plan was to head out of town this weekend. Now I'm not so I really could have wasted another 2 days of my life with this in my 103 degree garage. No thanks. Glad it's done.

All in all... I'm happy with the work done and the same shop originally quoted 950 in labor for all the original items (shocks, shackles, tie rods and center support) without the alignment. I got about half of what I originally wanted done on my own I guess. I could have figured out the uppers ball joints eventually. The lower was cake except for that bolt stripping out - I think they thought they were going to have to heli-coil that when I discussed it on the phone but then he mentioned just getting a longer bolt in there for it so I think that's what was actually done.

O I really wish my garage had air con, and was big enough to have left it in there taken apart over a few days - hell, 500 is 1/4 the cost of a fair four post lift! I was out of patience and I thought out of time. I also had no further desire to do another upper poly bushing install on the passenger side, that was not fun. The lowers are staying rubber until the next alignment. I will replace the steering rack bushings when the Devil's a$$ leaves AZ.


I think I've got most of my steering shake gone at 65.

The shocks - again - WOW. Love the ride. Feels like a brand new truck, Not too stiff, definitely NOT harsh, but not too soft and steering feels tight and precise, almost too precise from what I'm used to! haha.

I can feel the brake's pulsing a tiny bit. If it isn't one thing it's another. I also think going about a thousand miles on these new tires with a bad alignment might have worn them funky a bit. What do you think? I might throw them on the rear and put the rears up front now.

They mentioned doing the valve cover gaskets, Timing belt and water pump, and rear drums. More stuff I can do myself later when it's cooler. Maybe the front discs are probably due for a turning now that I feel the slight pulse almost 70k miles since the last brake job I did ... or possible warp of the aftermarket crossdrilled rotors put on by the previous owner. Front pads still look new.

My final comment: This is not as Chevy. I will never again assume anything on this truck needs replaced because it has a lot of time/miles on it.