Cutting out Rear wall brace on dbl cab

Any one ever cut out the rear wall brace on there double cab? Saw this guy did on car domain. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2935312/2

I am only talking about the pics of his first box in which he removed the meta wall brace. Looks like he drilled out the weld spots to remove it.

Any one know if those drill holes are to the open air or if there is another metal sheet in-between?

I am thinking about doing this, I want to make a ported sub box like the taco tunes one with out building around the rear brace. I am looking for some input before I start going all nasty on the rear wall.

Thanks

 

Building the box around the brace is probably a better solution...

 

yeah i would think that cutting it out would affect the structural integrity of our already flexy bodies

 

Best way to get rid of spot welds to remove them without the hole is a air powered die grinder with a new carbide bit. Done thousands of them, you can get it perfectly smooth. Just grind it till there is so little metal left on the top side you can break the metal off. You might have to get a whole bunch ground down before you'll be able to get the metal to start moving.

Just use a powerful magnet in a plastic bag to pick up the shavings later. They come off super hot so best lay some tin around to catch them. Having said that would i remove it? Nope not me.

 

i took it out when i put in my system, there is no other sheet metal behind there other than the bed. I used pliers and screw drivers to peel it away and bend the metal up and down and around until it broke around the weld. Little more time consuming but dont have any holes in the metal. But drilling would be easier no doubt.

 

Would it be possible to just move it up a little or no way? Just need a lil more room for the basket of a 12" sub to fit in there.

 

Thanks for the input. I am going try the grind off method and see where that gets me. Removing the brace gives you a lot more options for box design/sub you can use.

 

I gained a full 3/4" by moving the rear seat forward...there are some other posts/threads floating around but this was my original...

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...ck-seat-mod-system-install-complete-pics.html


Doing this would gain you as much as removing the cross-member...and is much safer and can be reversed later...I would think twice about removing that crossmember...good luck.

 

I saw your thread and looked at my taco. I can easily see how to move the seat bottom forward... It doe snot look like the BOTTOM of the seat UPPER is moved forward. This is where I actually need the space for my sub to fit. IUnless I am missing something your seat bottom is moved up and forward and the top tilts back less... however; that does not give space where needed at the bottom of the upper seat back. Can you please explain? You pic of the upper seat bracket looks like its in the same spot as stock (the bracket that hold the hinge).

 

I spaced the vertical seat backs forward 3/4" using spacers between the actual seats and the hinges that bolt to the floor, and the bottoms only 1/2"..as they still open and conserved foot room... 1/4"..lol.. I then extended the metal U-brackets that the vertical seat backs snap or lock into using 5/16" round bar (tig welded, cleaned and painted). I extended the U-brackets the same 3/4" I spaced the seat backs...giving me an even clean 3/4" top and bottom clearance, and maintaining the factory angle of the seat back. The u-bracket extension is not necessary to clear the sub enclosure in most instances, as the seat will still lock into the factory u brackets..the seat backs would just be 3/4" more "angled"...if that makes sense.

I then cut or notched the actual hinge bracket that bolts to the floor for additional clearance for my amp rack and amp closest to the hinge. Assuming your enclosure fits between the hinges this shouldnt be necessary...

Doing this i was still able to leave the plastic on the seat backs and easily clear my sub enclosure and sub, but the corner pieces that hide where they bolt to the floor hinges no longer can be used. I later removed the seat-back plastic anyway as i got better bass response without them.

I have other posts / threads with more pics that might help if you search.

Hope this helps.

 

Yes the section where the seat backs bolt to the hinge didnt have pics... thanks for clearing that up.

 

I cut mine off by my self, to fit a fiber glass back box, it was easy.

Just make sure you tarp everything off so when your grinding you don't let the sparks damage anything or catch fire.

 

pics of your setup?

 

let me see if i can dig some up .

 

This is all i got right now i need to take some more.