Audio amp/battery help

So I have been busy with school and hockey and my dad said he would take care of getting my extra battery put in. I told him to get a yellow top and he said it would be fine. I come back today and he ordered a high "cranking" ATV battery and demanded that I used an isolator!!! I'm no audio person but I don't think that some shitty little ATV battery will power a 1000/1 and a 450/4 amp. The amps are JL and Alpine but they still need lots of juice to run them. Please tell if the ATV battery will be not enough to do justice to my amps.

And one other question. I am using stereo equipment from my previous build and have 6X9's in the front and 6.5 components in the back. Would I be best to mount the tweeter in the kicker panel or up front in the stock location? I have seen guys on xr-underground do both.

Thanks and sorry for the rant

 

Why do you think you need an extra battery to run 1500 watts?

Also, If adding an extra battery, It's best to upgrade your alternator, too.

Running capacitors on your amplifiers, rather than adding an additional battery would be sufficient for this setup.

As far as putting your tweeters in the kicks; if you're only running ~60 watts to a 6x9 component set, you have nothing to worry about.

 

Its 1500 watt rms. And my door speakers are not running 60 watt rms they are running 110 watt rms. They are the alpine type r's.

 

What is your current battery (stock?) And what company/rating is the other high cranking battery?
Personally I have/love odyessey batteries you only need one odyessey where often times it would take two normal batteries.
My stock battery had difficult cranking over in the cold weather (remote start would fail to start 9 times out of 10, and one time it almost left me stranded [long story short, I left my lights on and the heater in the on position the night before and when I hit the remote start button my truck failed to start and I was inside when I did it, 15-20 min later I go out and between my audio system, heater and headlights it was deader than a doornail]) possibly the battery was on its last leg as well, but ever since I've had the truck it didn't auto start in freezing weather
I switched to my odyessey and now it cranks over and surprisingly the lights barely flicker as compared to before.

 

I have a completely stock battery/alternator and current have over 1000 rms watts running without a single issue. No lights dimming, nothing. Check the current draw of your amps, as thats what actually matters. Some amps draw more current in amps to put out a certain RMS than another amp will to do the same. Wattage by itself doesn't really mean anything.

 

Well my lights don't dim while music is playing, they would dim when the truck tried to start (which is normal)

 

I already bought 2 yellow tops so this thread is closed.

 

ah, yeah. the JL slash amps run consistent voltage at variable resistance. my bad. still, 150 watts per side isn't bad for the stock tweeter location.

ouch. hate to tell you but you're wasting your money on the extra battery. i would take it back if i were you. i'm running 2000 watts "rms" with caps and no problems at all. when i bump it up to 3200, thats when i add another battery.

 

just hook it up to the one under the hood and you will be fine. I am running a 400.4 ARC and Hifonics 1000 Zeus. never had problems with dimming or battery dying out.