My install. Kenwood 9980HD, Rev Camera, Ipod integration.
Pardon the long post and all the pics. I wanted to include all the links and stuff I could remember so that if I need this info later I can find it. I’ll include some info I wish I’d had, but most of this has been reported before. I haven’t installed a stereo in about 2 decades. I’m happy with the outcome. For those worried about taking this on it is totally doable - if you are careful. I spend a lot of time finding all the wires and making sure I knew what I was doing before I actually put things together.
As always this site (and TN) was a huge help.
Taking the dash apart is easy. It’s detailed a lot of places. I removed my center console as well to install my ipod cables. The worst part was getting the clock/hazard component out of the stock face plate. There are small raised areas on all 4 sides and you just have to gently pry them all away at the same time.
This was the teardown:
I was glad I bought these. Not absolutely necessary, but they were worth it in my opinion:
I was able to pry things apart with a little more confidence the first time knowing these were less likely to tear up the dash than a screwdriver.
I wanted Navigation and Bluetooth integration, but finally decided to go with the Kenwood 9980HD because of the OBD module.
There are less expensive options. Maybe better ones, I don’t know, I’m not an expert. I’m still learning the Kenwood UI, but so far I’m happy with my choices.
I like having the OBD info on the HU instead of a scangauge or something. But I can’t say I used it as much as I thought.
I got my HU here:
They were having a one day sale and I got a good price. I also got a break on the OBD module from them. The ipod cable, dash kit, SWI-RC, and wiring harness were full price. I had called them with a few questions and they were helpful. I would order the HU from them again at that price. Overall I think they were helpful and gave me a good deal. Shipped quick and items were packed well. I think their customer service and attention to detail could be better.
The dash kit they sent was a JOKE. Only cost $15 but it was ugly as sin and an off brand. Someone else had returned it to them because the package was opened and then taped back up - in a really haphazard way.
It wasn’t worth the trouble or cost to me to send it back, but I called and told them I thought that was pretty lame. I called later because I was considering returning the SWI-RC and going with the other brand. I knew their official return policy, but they weren’t very accommodating.
Because what they sent was so horrible I ordered the Scosche dash kit:
I read good and bad reviews of both the Metra and Scosche kits. The fit was fine. It was hard for me to figure out exactly how it was supposed to go together.
Basically the two black side brackets clip onto the faceplate, then the HU screws directly to the side brackets. Finally I used the trim piece from the Scosche kit. It all fit fine. I had to trial and error to figure out what to use.
These pieces were extra (they all came with the HU):
Don’t forget to take the little clips off the stock radio and put them on the new face plate. This seemed obvious to me, but I’d read where people missed this. You can see one of the clips sitting on the stereo. It goes on the tab below:
I used the Metra wiring harness - The big harness on top comes with the HU:
Soldered and shrink wrapped almost all my connections first:
The parking brake wire tells the HU the brake is on so that you can watch a DVD and use all the phone/Nav/setup functions. If you are moving you’re locked out of some of that. Most people hook this wire up to ground - which means you have all the functions all the time. I’m not sure if that’s legal or not, but I wanted to hook it up as intended first.
The parking brake wire is at the top of the brake assembly. It’s hard to understand this pic, but it shows the wire plugged in AFTER I tapped into it. Sorry for the poor focus.
The green/yellow wire comes from the plug and my red tap is visable
You can unplug the wire from the brake and then free it from some of the other wires it’s bundled with. Then it hangs low enough that it’s easier to tap into.
Once you’ve hooked things together just plug the wire back in and zip tie everything up out of the way.
I ran the mic up to the top of my a-pillar. I’ve seen this elsewhere, but don’t have a link. If you look in the pic you can see my GPS antenna on the dash at the base of the pillar as well.
This is the Push to Talk button:
I wanted my ipod cables in my center console.
This thread tells how to remove it:
P2 Post #32 was my inspiration.
I used this drill bit to open up one of the holes in the bottom of the compartment.
Then just cut the carpet to pull the cables through, and put it all back together.
This is my primary ipod cable:
It has video input as well.
For the second ipod input I just used a USB extension with a female end:
Then I used this retractable Ipod cord:
Steering wheel button integration was important to me, but was kind of a hassle. The PAC unit worked, but it surprises me how much trouble you have to go to. It’s not hard to set up, but there are a lot of steps and the instructions could be a little better.
I used this DIY:
It is helpful - but isn’t quite accurate for the newer SWI-RC. The resistor I used was a 560ohm and the programming instructions are a little different.
See my links:
Portal for wiring instructions:
This is the plug in the truck where you find the wires.
I was confused at first because I thought the plug should plug into the wiring harness somewhere - it doesn’t. Just tap into the wires and tuck the plug back with the rest of the wires..
I used this reverse camera:
I wanted a switch that would allow me to turn it on anytime. This is the switch I used:
Some background on the switch method - identifies Rev wire:
To work correctly I had to include the Reverse wire from the HU with the power wire to the camera from the switch. This diagram should make more sense:
This means that whether you turn on the camera with the switch or by putting the truck in reverse the HU switches to the camera input.
The switch has 3 connections on the back. The middle one should be power out to the camera and the rev wire together. One of the other two is from the Rev wire in the kick panel, the last one is from the red power wire to the HU. Interestingly the connection at the top of the switch is selected when the switch is flipped down and vice versa - so the connections are opposite of what I would expect.
Works like a charm. If I have it in position 1 the camera comes on when I shift into rev. Position 2 is on anytime. Middle position is off.
I put the switch in one of the switch blanks L of the steering wheel. Tight fit, but it went OK.
These are some pics of how I got the camera wires out of the cab. These are from when I installed my dynalock. I ran the camera wires right with the dynalock wires.
I removed the R kick panel and door sill and routed the wires under the door sill:
Then I ran them out through this plug in the body under the passengers seat:
These pics are of the dynalock wires, but I just ran the camera wires through with them:
Then I just zip tied the wires to the harness running back to the back of the truck.