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05-11 Access Cab 10" Custom Sub Enclosure

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Old 10-05-2011, 02:32 PM   #1
2011 Tacoma Access Cab TRD 4x4
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DIY: 09-11 Access Cab 10" Custom Sub Enclosure

I got tired of looking around for a sub enclosure for my 2011 Tacoma, so I decided to build my own. It wasn't very hard all things considering, it just takes a lot of planning and calling Mr. Marv to figure out some basic stuff. I made the box for a Rockford Fosgate 10" P3D2-10.

The materials required are:
- 3/4" MDF 24"x48" sheet (which can be purchased at Lowe's/Home Depot/etc)
- **Wood shaver - Lesson learned. (If the edges don't lineup perfectly you can shave them. This can be purchased at Lowe's/Home Depot as well)
- Saw horses (Not required but useful)
- DAP Automotive Silicone Sealant (seal interior and exterior of enclosure)
- Wood Glue (Titebond II)
- Wood Screws (about 1-1/2" shank length)
- Carpenters Square
- A saw or dremel with cutting bit
- I used a compass to get my circle perfect for the cut out
- The carpet can be purchased at most Craft stores or automotive Upholstery Store. Can do various colors to match interior as well. You can also use vinyl to cover your enclosure.
- 3M or LockTite Industrial Aerosol Glue
- 12" Ruler
- Washers and Metric M7-1.0 bolts to mount box on rear console bracket. (About 1-1/2" shank length) When setting up the bracket's holes on the bottom of the box, put the bracket flush on the box use a pencil and shade the holes. Then off set those holes back to almost flush with where you used the pencil to shade the holes. Make sure its centered. Don't drill the holes to be flush against the box it wont line up when you install it and you will have to drill more holes to make it line up. - Lesson learned for me.

* You need to know the optimum or recommended volume for your subwoofer BEFORE you build the enclosure.

*Pre-drill all holes or the wood will split.

*I assembled the center pieces first and then sandwiched them with the two outer L shaped sides. The front and rear face pieces spanned the total width of the sandwiched outer L shaped pieces. Make sure when doing the widths of the front and rear faces, that add the thickness of the two L shaped side pieces to the width of the faces.

Draw out all the shapes on your 3/4" MDF:


Cut out all Pieces:


All but face Assembled:


Finished Box with face cut out:


Sealed and Carpeted box (I used my finger to smooth the silicone out after I made beads on all the corners - Use gloves its annoying to clean off your hands after your done):


Ensure it fits (You can bolt it two the rear console's bracket at this point):


Close up of finished installed product (To install the sub after you have you box bolted down to the bracket, you will have to remove your center console which is 2 bolts and 2 screws under the forward cup holder. You will also have to remove the Power inverter or the bracket below where the console mounts to be able to have room to install the sub.):


Better view:


For more pictures go to my gallery:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/s.../59946/cat/500

I would like to thank Mr. Marv and 84Hilux for their help with constructing my box!
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:05 AM   #3
2011 Tacoma Access Cab TRD 4x4
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I don't have the P500-1BD amp yet, but I did hook it up to my door speaker's amp which is a P200-2 in bridged. It hit very hard with only 200 watts @ 2-Ohms. I will be getting a Rockford Fosgate RFK4D 4-gauge dual amplifier wiring kit(I have cheap crap that's not all copper currently hooked up to my 200 watt amp for the door speakers), and the P500-1BD Amp on the 15th when I get paid. I'm trying not to blow all of my check on this so i spaced it out between a few. Oh and I'm putting the amp under my passenger seat. I should fit fine, if not I'll find a place to mount it.
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:57 AM   #4
Somebody call for a Wambulance?
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I don't see that fiting in an 05-10. They have different rear seats


Otherwise thats a sick set up
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:41 PM   #6
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Looks nice. I have been wanting to upgrade my system. May try something like that myself.
Looks like you set that up in your living room...did you cut up all the wood in there?? lol!!
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Old 10-06-2011, 06:43 PM   #7
2011 Tacoma Access Cab TRD 4x4
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No, I did all the cutting on my back patio. I just took all the pictures inside. I have a small apartment and no garage - Need to buy a house... lol
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:10 PM   #8
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About how much did it run you to build that box, if you don't mind me asking? I'm considering doing the same thing
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:45 AM   #9
2011 Tacoma Access Cab TRD 4x4
tacomaSquid2011 is on a distinguished road
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If you have saw horses($20) and a corded dremel($100) your golden. I spent around $65 bucks on materials at the most. the glue was like $5 and really not that necessary. I also returned the liquid nails and the cheap orbital jigsaw which broke and almost injured me(Don't buy any power tools from harbor freight...)

The important pieces are:
- 3/4" MDF sheet which are at home depot ($10)
- Prime-guard Ten Exterior Screws 1-5/8' or 4.128cm wood screws at home depot ($10)
- DAP automotive silicone ($5)
- Carpenters Square at harbor freight ($2)
- metal ruler from harbor freight ($2)
- metal compass from harbor freight ($3)
- 3M or LockTite Industrial Aerosol Glue ($5)
- carpet is at any local hobby store ($8-$10 sold by the yard)
- wood shaver was ($10)
- 4 metric bolts and washers to bolt to the factory bracket for the rear console found at any hardware store. ($4)

The wood shaver is really important to make the edges line up really good and pre-drill all of your holes.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:56 AM   #10
2011 Tacoma Access Cab TRD 4x4
tacomaSquid2011 is on a distinguished road
Navy: Aviation machinists mate at VP-30
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Oh, I had to take about 3/4" off of the front of the box and re-carpet it because once I installed the sub and tested it with my door speaker's amp I realized the sub was hitting the back of the console. So now i think there is like a 1.50" Gap from the box and the console. You should bolt it down then install the sub.(You will have to remove the center console and the bed power inverter). And don't worry about finding the speaker terminal for the back of the box. A buddy of mine that does competitions says they mostly fall out from the pressure changes. So i used the dremel to drill a hole and sealed the hole with the DAP Automotive silicone.
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