Stock HU, Aftermarket Speakers And Sub?

I couldn't find exactly what im looking for when I searched... I have a 2011 Double Cab and I got the JBL package with the Sat Radio, Bluetooth, AUX Input and 6 Disk. I like the stock HU and all its steering wheel controls but I want to replace the stock speakers, stock amp and the stock sub to get more clear sound. Would I be able to use all of the stock wiring for the aftermarket amp, sub and speakers and just plug and play since all the wiring is already there, or would I have to replace all the wiring? How could I make this work?

 

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Depends on how much power you go with. For the 4 corners a 50x4 is fine with stock wiring. When you start jumping to 75 x4 and up you need to start running your own speaker wire. If you add amp(s) make sure you beef up the ground from the battery to the body also.(Big Amps mean chasis grounds too.) Remember Algebra. Both sides of the equation need to equal out. I have said this before not to long ago Alpine makes V-power 4 channel that can fit under the drivers seat with a little seat tab benting under the seat. A sub is a whole other ball game start with the 4 corners. I also recommend PROPERLY dynamating or sound deading the doors. Regular taco doors sound like taco doors. When PROPERLY deadened the doors sound like Mercedes MaBach doors.

 

perfect, i wanted to know the same thing.
I also think I want to find one of those JBL HU's.

I wonder if I can run the bluetooth with my 08?

 

Thanks for the info. But there are still many questions. The JBL system I have has a stock sub and an amp for that sub. Can I just put a new sub box back there and use the wiring from the HU to hook up to the new amp as long as I beef up the grounds? Also, if I wanted to use the stock HU, but wanted to add an amp for the 4 corners, would I have to splice the wires for the amp from the HU or are there harnesses that would make it a plug and play from the stock HU to a new amp for the speakers.

Whoa, almost confused myself trying to write all that...

 

Let me stop you right there. Not worth upgrading the speakers in a JBL system. To do it right, you'll want a different amplifier, a completely different sub/box/amp, and if you wish to retain the stock head unit, you will need a Line-out converter.

The stock system has crossovers and filters in it that you can't touch. To upgrade it, you gotta get rid of it all or it won't sound any better. The only way I got around it at first was to simply upgrade my head unit. That made a tremendous jump in sound quality and volume. To do that you will need a JBL Synthesis LOC, which converts the two wire output of the head unit to a 4 channel RCA.

All in all, if you're like me, you won't be satisfied in the end, and you'll just scrap all the JBL junk and completely upgrade. I finally did that about 3 weeks ago.... and I'm not looking back.

 

Brian is right to a point. A lot of new high end cars come with crazy systems already. Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Lexus, even Hyundia Genesis cars have nutty systems. These cars don't really have head units you can pull out of the car so any aftermarket has to integrate with them. Because of this Alpine, Kenwood, JBL, Audio Control, and JL Audio make pieces to link in and do what you want. One of the most basic is the JL Audio Clean Sweep. I understand keeping the dash looking stock for theft prevention. I get it. The problem is if you truely want GOOD sound CLEAN sound then get a new head unit. A QUALITY head unit. Not one from Walmart. Those of you who want the bluetooth, there are so many pieces out now that can do that. Even if you don't want to change the headunit look at a Parrot BT piece. Some of hte Parrot pieces link in Iphones, SD cards, USB sticks, AND they have sound processors built in. The Parrot 510 or 520 something has all that stuff. Back to the original question. Brian is right for top notch sound. But you can (and I have done it, in gen 1 & 2 tacos) Add amps that have LOCs (Line output converters) built into the amps. You use a metra harness to help you figure out the positive and negative of each speaker. (the colors to the four corners are like red/white, black/yellow, pink/purple, green/blue) Someone said they have a factory sub. Well if you want more unplug it and use the speaker leads to a LOC or a sub amp with a LOC built in. Then build a nice sub box and and you are good. I would just get a sub amp with sub level control NOT BASS BOOST control and or a LOC that has a dial on it. PAC makes one called the LOC-2 I think. That way when you are at a light you aren't booming grandma out of her car next to you at the light like a moron.

 

FWIW, I don't think Cleansweep will work in a JBL system, at least, if it does, it will require a little extra work. The output from the head unit is 2 wires. I think the Cleansweep is for speaker level input, which may be possible, but you'd have to do it downstream of the stock amp, in the rear of the truck. No experience with cleansweep though. I am not positive if the outputs of the amplifier are full range either. I know the rear speakers of a JBL system have a LPF on them to prevent treble from pushing out of the stock speakers. I know there is a small unit, which looks like a cheap filter INLINE behind each speaker, but its goo-d up so you can't tell what it is.

 

You guys know your stuff. Thanks. I dont know much about sound systems as you guys can see. My main concern I guess would be is replacing all this stuff but still being able to use ALL of the buttons on my steering wheel for my stereo including the bluetooth ones. Thats the main reason why I want to keep the HU stock. I dont need navi or anything like that. The JBL system has good sound its just the speakers cant handle it when I play my ipod. The speakers distort and the sub just rattles and sounds like shit.