Uh oh .... :/

I LITERALLY had all 4g wiring too (but just for one amp)!!! I think your right about ripping it all out and starting over (4g wiring). The 4g, it's been mixed and matched (brands). I did notice that some of the 4g wiring that I was using had more insul. than the other 4g wiring that I was using and that "burn" possibility I am HIGHLY leaning towards that with one of the main wires that will be running to one of the amps .. which sucks lol.

I have a 3 fise dist. block that can hold AGU fuses (I think they are call AGU's) - the fuse holder that I melted I put in a 100a fuse, this time will be putting in only two 60a fuses and one 80a for the comps. Added a relay to the mix too both for fans and remote turn ons. Although the connections for the dist. block I am using will only accept a max of 4g wiring for the power source (felt if I just doubled up on the 4g it would cover it - also it's close to the battery anyhow ).

I'm still debating on weather or not to add in my 2nd comp. It's going to be a VERY simple front/back pan cake set-up. Nothing fast but no so slow either. I am reusing some old valves that I found while sifting through my shed (four 1/2" valves and four 3/8" valves), adding mufflers to them also. Building this one for performance ... ish v. building a street hopper like I had my old Dakota and Blazer. Keeping as quiet as possible on all levels (air/engine/and I guess rattling - going ape shit on the audio though ).

going to take snap shots of how the engine bay looks as of now (the rest isn't installed, took it all out - rcas, misc. wires; all amp related stuff inside the cab).

 

sorry forgot about the previous picture posts, going to get more detailed with it. the bolts that I was using and such. I'm liking that ground bolt thing you posted. looks more solid than the tappers I had on (somehow it just feels, to me, they will loosen up at some point and I would have to retighten, loosen, and so on until there's nothing for the tapper to grab).

 

Good call on ripping it out and starting over. And having mix/matched wires isn't a good thing. People will tell you it doesn't matter but it does. Like you said, some of the shielding on your 4g is much thicker then others. Wire MAKES the install, use crappy wire on high end stuff and it will still sound like shit.

I'd still look into running 4g to the back, then splitting off with a distribution block. There is no need to run 2 x4g runs from your battery to the amps. I think you have over complicated your install a bit and should back it down and go with the basics. That crappy diagram I made should get you by. Also, good job on doing the Big3, not many people realize how much that makes a difference.

Most peoples stereo's that I end up troubleshooting has to deal with the ground wire for the amps. Bad grounds can cause ALL sorts of issues with stereo. That JL plug works great.

Do me a favor and answer these questions so I can help you out better.

1. What are the model number of your amps/head unit/speakers
2. are you running all your doors off of your stock wiring or did you run new wire to each door speaker? If you ran new wire what gauge did you run?
3. List the brands of your 4g power wire if you can. Some of the wire out there is just outright horrible.

If you run into a major snag or whatever PM me and I'll shoot you my cell number and we can talk over the phone.

I used to have all speed bags with 1inch valves in my 98taco, great setup but it was VERY loud. I like the idea of a smooth/quiet setup.

 

1.
H.U. - Pioneer DEH 500UB
Front Comps - PB S6C
Rear - OE
Subs - 10" Hifi Zues HZ 10
Amps - Sub; USA USX800F, Mids/Highs; Hifi ZXi 4410

2. All OE

3. all printing on wires is either too faded or just rubbed off from time.

"I used to have all speed bags with 1inch valves in my 98taco, great setup but it was VERY loud. I like the idea of a smooth/quiet setup."

NICE! I used to love pissing people off when I pulled up next to them and dumped all the air. lol. Now I guess I'm somewhat more of a creeper.

attached are the pictures of how I put al the wires and such along with the start up voltage and resting (13.7/13.8 start - 13.5 resting).

 

How's the install going OP?

 

for now I have everything wired up and it's back to normal. I only put in one amp for now (also put on the fans; one for inlet/outlet). Want to change out the box, seeing what I come up with next month. Still have to remember to save up for a new battery too lol. I keep forgetting.

 

oh and ordered in my neg. batt terminal along with a circuit breaker. A little anxious, but I'm still far from done lol

 

Awesome man! I'm sub'd the thread so I'll keep an eye out for progress. Can't wait to see it finished!

 

found this the other day from watching a YT vid.
http://reaudio.com/box.php

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84PAxNUv8xc

I was also thinking, since I'll have two amps, and 5 fans, can I hooked it up similar to the attached image? My theory is that I can wire both amps since the remote to then isn't that much along with the fans cause they aren't much either, to one relay turning them all on when the h.u. turns on. so instead of a neon light, I have the remote turn on for the amps and the fans hooked up like the diagram. I'm not sure how much amps the fuses should be though (for the main I was guessing it @ 20a - 15a for the fans and somewhere around 2a for the remote turn on?).