Possible to fit a 7" or 8" in the front doors of a 2nd gen?

...without any modification to the door itself?

Thinking of possibly doing a 3 way component system... which one? not sure yet... have to see the physical limitations and/or modifications needed per size

 

It's possible but that's a good bit of fab work with the metal of the door and the interior plastics of the door.

 

You know thinking about it you may be able to put an 8" in the door and doing a kick panel install for your high mids.

 

Yeah, its possible in a second gen. Dont know about a first gen.

I have the Exodus Anarchy (180mm driver) in my doors now, and a truncated 8" (this Peerless) has been wedged in for some experimenting in Italynstylion's truck when working on a setup.

There was no fab work for the sheet metal - a baffle is all that is needed, as the by9 hole in the metal will fit the magnet of almost any driver that will fit.

As for the doors, it was simply a matter of using a razor blade to remove the small plastic trim around the grill (on the inside of the door, in the shape of the by9). Takes all of 3 minutes with a sharp blade and some patience.

 

mattg - I'm curious about what you have in the doors now. I was thinking of a dynaudio, focal, or whatever high end brand 3 way component system, have the mid range in the stock tweeter location, and moving the tweeter onto the a pillar.

 

I am running a 2 way + sub. The Anarchy's linked above, paired up with this tweet: http://www.stereoclarity.com/products-page/brands/css-ld25x-tweeter/ . These are in the factory location right now. I have already had one break in, so I dont like anything to appear out of place.

I am running:

Head unit -> Audison precessor -> amps (150x2 @ 8ohm to the mids, 75x2 @4 ohm to the tweeters) and sub amp.

Lots of power for the drivers, and they seem to love em. I dont even remember my crossover points, but now that I have had them in for a few months, I need to get the laptop back to the truck for some work.

I have never ran a 3 way, dont really want to, though I have had the processor/amps to do so for my past couple installs.

I can see absolutely no reason to spend the kind of money on drivers that high end component's cost, and not get the most out of them - so I run active, and I dont buy component sets. That, and I cannot stand to NOT have time alignment anymore...

Feel free to ask questions if you need info.

 

what components are you using to set your time alignment? the processor with the user interface of your laptop? I would like a strictly plug and play install, and not have to fiddle with my components. also, I want to keep the number of items of components to a minimum, meaning, using up all the channels of a 6 ch amp(fronts, rears, sub), and not have to individually split up the channels for front mid, front tweet, etc... having to purchase more than 6 channels of amplification, which would probably equate to having two amps. I'd rather have the space, vs. pure audio heaven.

projected components:
-pioneer 80prs
-zed leviathan
-jl10tw5(2)
-door speakers(undetermined at this point). my defauly for the doors would fall under HAT 6x9s if I can't find anything to replace them...

so far running a stock system, which is really killing/disappointing me at high volumes

edit: front speaker choice doesn't have to be a 3way system, but I would like to run a 7" system, simply for the more midbass stage upfront, and just to be different.

 

No problems with that, its all about priorities.

Yes, my time alignment and crossovers are through the Audison Bitone.1. User interface is either an attached controller, or computer.

The Pioneer gives you time alignment, and decent crossover control - sp you are good there.

The Zed amp is a mixed bag. Too many issues with Mantz (Zed) for me to consider one, but the power it does is pretty nice. If it works for you, rock it. I have the Audison under the passenger seat, and both amps and subs behind the passenger side seat, so I keep underseat and behind driver side rear seat storage. This works for me, but if you are running 2 JL TW drivers, you wont have any extra space. Also, FWIW, I dont know if they do a 10TW5 - only thing I have seen is the 13...

The problem with using a pre-made component set in 7", is you dont really have many options. I would consider something like the ID XS69 components as well, though you will probably be happy with all of them.

 

Yeah, I had misspelled the jl speakers, should have been tw3.

I do know that I am rolling the dice with the zed amp, banking that it comes ready to rock.

6x9s? Yeah, listed my default above unless I can find something better. Considered the IDs, but it isnt the same company it used to be.

Meanwhile, could you list separates that I should looking into? Separate drivers, maybe something likr that processor you have as well?

 

The XS69's you will find around will be from the Eric Stevens age, though they are not outstanding, just good drivers. The benefit is the extra cone area for more bass. Tweets are decent.

I like Morel tweets, but I dont know that I would run their mids - no issues, just not a big fan.

A friend has ran several versions of Dyn components, and I have always been pleased with his setup.

I would probably run a good 6.5 - 6.75 components. The Pioneer C720PRS have some of the best mids available, though the tweets are rumored to be harsh. I have only ran the mids with other tweeters, but never ran the tweets.

JBL has some nice components from back in the day, but I dont know if you can still find em.

Rainbow, Focal, hertz, and many others have good reviews. I have not looked for a component set in several years, and dont often get the chance to hear high end components often - so I wold just be going on others reviews.

As for processors - Audison has the Bitone, with 8 channels, full control. They also offer a Bitten, which has 5 channels.

Zapco is supposed to be coming out with an 8 channel, and I had great experience with their DC amps and processer (6 channel at the time).

Helix is making one, JBL has the MS8, Arc audio is coming out with one, and a company called MiniDSP has some great options on the cheap, if you want to DIY a great one.


If you want to go separate drivers, there is a whole nother world of fun, research, and options. Parts Express, Madisound, Meniscus, CSS (Stereo Clarity here in the US can get a lot of their drivers) and others all carry a ton of drivers. You can go from budget ($100-200 for tweets/mids) up to something like the ScanSpeak illuminator line.

 

this is beyond what I want to do. I'll leave the audiophile in me at home on my theater. I just want a lot of power, and some pretty good components. Im not about to go through several sets of drivers/components to get that "feel", but I do appreciate the feedback. You're more fanatic about car audio than I am

 

Ha it isn't that bad after you do it once or twice it just seems like a lot when you're just getting in to it.

 

Very few mids will fit in the stock tweeter location. I also wouldnt try crazy placement on a three way if using the passive crossovers. I was running 3-way active until yesterday. I had the rainbow slc set with the cal26 tweeter. I liked it but didn't love it. I moved on with a 2-way set from micro-precision. Wow what a difference. I love it. Hands down the best set-up i have ever ran. The tweeters are in the pillars and processing is done with a Mosconi 6to8 and amplified by an Audiosystem 70.6. Just dont bite off more then you can chew with a 3-way.

 

One thing I do like is researching all of these exotic pieces. The above listed are candy to my eyes. Anymore suggestions?

 

I think, assuming you're willing to go active, you should seriously consider Matt's advice about looking over the speakers available at places like Madisound.

Seas sells raw drivers there (makers of the well thought of Lotus component set)
Scan Speak sells there too (makers of the semi-legendary Alpine F1 Status line)
Eton product (old school, high-end Diamond Hex line)

I am currently running a set of Seas 7" mids (150 Watts/channel) and 1" metal domes (75 Watts/channel) and am quite happy.

 

Im still in the planning stages so any suggestion is appreciated. Active is a possibilty, but finding amps and components small enough to retain what little storage space our trucks have, let alone a double cab is quite challenging. Ibridges, what do you have in terms of mounting your 7"s? Are they in the doors?

 

so the pionner 80prs can run 3 way. if I ran the front rcas and Y'd them to a 4ch amp for the fronts, full range to the rear, and the sub channel to a sub amp, I should be ok, correct in terms of KISS and getting the most with the least amount of components?

the above would require
-pioneer 80prs head unit
-6ch amp(4ch for fronts, 2ch for rears)
-mono amp for subs...

correct?

edit:
Y'ing off the front channels from the pioneer would not give the proper freqs to either channel(mids or tweets), unless I have an amp that can do bandpass(hence the zed leviathan early in this thread)... scratch that idea.

my main objective was to get the head unit first, and utilize the bandpass, for the rears to see what kind of sound I would be getting... that said, maybe, I could "y" the middle set of rcas from the pioneer(as that set of channels will provide the bandpass - 80hz-2700hz, or whatever I feel is good)... lotta thinking out loud here folks, dont mind me.

 

The 3 way is referencing 2 way front + sub, so there is not a really good option for a 2 way + rears + sub, unless the sub output is full range. This would required 7 channels (or 8) of amplification, but if the sub is full range you can use a Y splitter, and let the sub amp provide the filters for the channel (almost all will have a basic crossover section), but you lose time alignment on the sub, if that is an issue.

If you dont think you can commit to the space needed for a processor, and the channels needed, dont worry about it. It definitely takes some planning, compromises, and money above and beyond (though you generally can save some cash on the drivers themselves)

If you stay passive, you can still run good components up front, rear, and a sub(s) and get time alignment for the drivers, which is nice to have.

If you decide you dont care about the rears, you can then go active using the drives you already have from the component set, or sell those and start piecing things together. FWIW, in my truck I am running the rears off the deck (only a single input to the processor for the front/sub). I keep them faded out very low, as they add nothing to the sound for me, but I did hook them up in case I ever feel the need to turn em up for rear passengers.

There is room for one sub + 2 amps and a processor behind the back passenger side seat, but you are going to have to use small amps (which can be more expensive). You can also run a pair of 10" subs, and put the amps/processor in the middle, or put the processor under the rear seat.

A benefit to a processor, is you can run a single input, and then use deck power (and time alignment/crossovers if you want) for the rears, and use the processor for control over the front drivers and sub. This would allow you to stick with a single 5 or 6 channel amp, though the rear will not be as loud at full tilt. I have am using 2 amps so I can get plenty of power for the mids at 8 ohm, but if I had different mids I would be running a single amp. Or a different pair of amps...


LBridges mentions some good stuff, but beyond those you have access to stuff like Vifa (who also made some of the Alpine Type X stuff), Dayton, Morel (they do raw drivers as well) Peerless (whom I like quite a bit), SB Acoustics, Hi-Vi (who are purported to make the Hybrid Audio (HAT) drivers for them, and more.



Lots of companies to buy-outs as well, so you can find raw drivers from M&K (Vifa, IIRC, but cheaper!), Focal, You can also start looking for the best parts of other component sets - tweets from this brand, mids from that one, etc.


Like Cinco mentions, a 3 way active is no walk in the park. I would be very good with a 2 way, or be prepared to spend a lot of time with a 3 way to get it sounding good...

It is not for everyone, and you can build a nice system without going active. There is just that extra control that comes in handy.

 

You should try 2-way active before even attempting a 3-way set-up. It was said on Diyma "If you can't get a 2-way to sound good them a 3-way will rape your mother".

 

looks like my original plan fall into fruition then. I really want loud, balanced sound.

in other news, I did hit 154db in a drag race many years ago in my nissan ext cab hardbody with one 12" lol