This guide will show you how to hardwire a GPS unit's power cord to the cigarette lighter and route the wiring inside the dash.
This guide assumes you are installing a Garmin 205W or similar GPS unit in a 2008 Automatic Doublecab. Installation may vary dependent on the plug that feeds to the back end of the GPS (the smaller the better).
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF TIME IN THE DAY TO DO THIS! I started at 2pm and wound up finishing at 8pm. It shouldn't take you as long; I spent a lot of time planning and re-planning. However, It's quite involved and is more difficult the darker it is outside. Note that you also take enough stuff apart that you won't be able to drive very well until you are done.
EDIT: I found a much easier way of adding the extra cigarette lighter, which takes out 2/3 of the work involved. Please skip to the bottom
Difficult and involved (unless you do the updated method... which is less difficult). Continue only if you are comfortable with these sorts of jobs.
Are you ready to spend all day on this? Are you losing your sanity? Do you like struggling with things? Yeah, this involves all that. I don't know if I'd try to repeat this job. It's a super pain, but hopefully I can take out the extra guesswork so you can get right down to busting your fingers and perching upside down in the footwells with tools and parts all over.
The more portions of the dash you take apart, the easier the install is. However, there's a LOT of dash to take apart, so how easy it is and your comfort level might be at odds.
Other than how you may be splicing the cables, everything should be reversible. It may be harder than the installation (in regard to fishing things back out).
If you have a GPS that has a traffic receiver cord, you will need to bust some of the vent tabs to make the cord fit through. This isn't too big of a deal, you can't really tell anything has been cut.
TOOLS AND PARTS REQUIRED
Dash removal instructions (in case my pictures aren't enough, thanks to whoever originally posted this)
GPS power cord
Inline Splice connectors (2)
Wire (preferably two colors, about 16-20AWG will suffice)
thin, long, flat-blade screwdriver
Large, long, flat-blade screwdriver (2)
10mm socket screwdriver
Auxillary Power Socket ($9 or less, see pic). Try getting the most compact one you can find.
- Open the packaging for your Auxillary Plug. If it's like mine, you can pretty much throw away the wiring. It's about an inch long and is useless. Try to remove any metal brackets or plug caps, anything that might be extraneous. We have a limited amount of room.
- Follow the steps in this video up to about 1:20 (thanks to roborock for finding this)
It should now look like this:
Easy method: After removing the stereo and its trim, you can stop. We will be wiring inline with the head unit. Skip to the end of post #2
- Remove the shift knob
- Remove the silver piece of the center console that goes around the gearshift. It's called the "Console Upper Rear Panel Sub Assembly". it just pops straight up.
- Pull out the front cupholder tray. It all just pulls straight out.
- Remove the rear console box (the cubby between the front seats). Remove the carpet, the two bolts, and the two screws. There's still teeth that hook it to the rest of the console, you need to lift up and then towards the rear of the truck (I busted mine off, so good luck)
- Remove the two bolts near the gearshift that holds the center console, then pull the center console straight back as you see in the picture (use both hands, one on either side)
- Remove the driver's side door sill trim. It pulls straight up.
- Remove the fake pedal in the driver's footwell (pull straight up)
- Undo the bolt you find underneath
- Remove the kick panel
- Remove the coin trays on both sides of the steering wheel. The one on the right pulls straight out.