Question about Installing In bed Speakers

Alright so here is my ordeal, I am planning on installing speakers into my forward storage bins in my bed and I know almost exactly how to do it except one small little detail.
Here are the things I will be getting...

• Marine Speakers (probably 4x6 polk audio)
• 2 channel amp
• DPDT toggel Switch
• And of course all the wiring to go with those
• Hardware Wire to cover the speakers in the Bed and some other hardware to prevent theft.

So here is my question, Hopefully someone will have an answer

How do I install the toggle switch to my factory stereo (6 CD Changer)?

A little more info... I would Install the Marine speakers to the amp, which would then go to the toggle switch so I am not running the speakers in my bed all the time because that would be ridiculous. Any input would be awesome.

 

I also have one other Idea, since the in bed speakers don't need to have the ability to balance left vs right would it work for me to use the Scosche LOC80 2-channel line output converter?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC...rch=line+output+converter&tp=2001#details-tab
And run the toggle switch to the battery giving the amp power to make the speakers run? Or would this just make the speakers run all the time?

 

Interesting concept here, not sure if that adapter is exactly what you need. But, if you are planning on splicing into the stock speaker wires it should do what you want it to do. If the amp has speaker-level inputs, you don't need the adapter and can just splice in and run the wires to the amp inputs.

I would put the toggle on the amp on/off lead.

Of course, the speakers inside the truck will also be on unless you rig it somehow to turn those off. That would be a pain, though.

 

well what I would do if i were going that route which I may be leaning torward because it may actually require less work with the same result is...
Splicing the Scorshe loc80 into the rear speakers and then attaching that to the amp and the speakers in the bed, and then sending the power line to the amp through a toggle switch before taking it to the battery so once I power the amp the speakers in the bed will come on at that point, because without the power to the amp those speakers in the should not come on at all while not affecting the rear speakers inside my truck and I would be good to go. Does that sound about right? Or did i miss something in my head?

 

There's a low-power line that triggers the amp to turn on. That is where I would put the toggle, not on the actual power supply line. When you flip it, it tells the amp to turn on. Same basic concept, but on a lower power line and will make it cleaner.

Some amps have speaker-level inputs. You can just splice into the rear speaker wires and connect to the amp using just speaker wire, no adapter needed.

 

Low Power-line? I am trying to figure out what you are talking about but its not clicking even looking at these amps could you elaborate?

On almost all the amps in the price range I am trying to stay for this they would require a harness for the speaker level inputs which just seems like more effort, (I have been wrong before though).

 

I figured out the Low-Power line, it is the line that comes of the remote connection, So I understand that now!
So here is where I am at with this now, the Remote connection connects to the head unit, which is also the Low-Power line, I am pretty sure I can run my in bed speakers right off of the rear speakers when i do the splice which should eliminate the need for the remote connection, (not positive on that though) So that is why it would be beneficial for me who doesn't want to tap in to my harnesses on my factory head unit because there is not a spot to connect the remote line onto the factory H/U.

 

Pretty sure the remote connection just turns the power on and off on the amplifier when the car stereo comes on. I really don't need the amp running all the time, but rather only when i am running the in bed speakers, so if i don't use that will the amp run automatically? As soon as the vehicle comes on?

 

The amp should have 3 connections other than speaker/pre-amp inputs and speaker outputs:

+ Power
- Ground
Remote Turn-On

Wire the remote turn-on lead from the amp to one side of the toggle switch, and then another wire to any ignition-switched power source from the other side of the toggle switch. When the toggle switch is turned on, it will tell the amp to turn on. It doesn't have to go to the head unit for your application, I would assume the head unit is already on if you are flipping the switch. They do that so the amp turns on and off with the head unit.

 

Got it i think!
Hopefully I can get everything purchased and installed in the next couple of weeks!

 

I just took a look at some amps and most do NOT have speaker-level inputs, so you'll probably need that adapter. It will probably work better that way anyway.