Unexpected Surprise, Factory Rear Door Speaker Mounts 2013 Access Cab

Here's another pic

 

Where did you buy the PVC board from?

 

Lowes http://www.lowes.com/pd_238348-9989...=1&currentURL=?Ntt=3%2F4+pvc+board&facetInfo=

 

3/4 x 8 x 8?

8 inches or 8 feet? If 8 feet, I've got a project that will be perfect for.

 

8 feet long. I think I bought a 6 footer to do the four doors. They have a bunch of different lengths and widths. It's pretty easy to cut and drill. It had a wood grain on one side IIRC.

 

What size did you put in the rear

 

I'm with this guy. your ears aren't back there. and even if you had passengers sitting back there, it wouldn't matter. but if you want to waste some money to fill up those blank holes, do it.

if you were to spend money on your stereo in steps, I would recommend it in this sequence:

1. stereo
2. front speakers and sound deadening material
3. amp for fronts and possibly sub
4. subwoofer

that is just my opinion. I have a dcsb, and I will not be installing new speakers in the rear doors when I upgrade

 

Ok, are the wires there or do you have to run them to the doors?

 

looks sharp!

I would install new speakers anywhere you want to make it sound good. Adding rear will fill up the space behind you nicely. Good thing you don't have a double cab otherwise you would have one good set up front and a crappy one in back.

 

The '14 Access cab is the same, no door speakers in the back! Time to start cutting and install 6.5 alpines.

 

You are my inspiration.

 

Rear speakers do make a difference. If everything was wired correctly, with the right amt of juice to power the door speakers than sound quality will be improved. Got a double that had stock head unit but amps, woofers and door speakers all around and the quality was decent. Once I swapped in the 2014 navi unit the quality was so much better. I adjust the woofers down and the infinitys in the rear doors actually so much clearer and the bass was really there compared to the original stock head unit.

Next on the list is a better line out converter.

 

Personally, In a car imagining and time alignment are your 2 best friends if you know how to set your sound stage, Sadly not a single SQ competition setup uses rear fill but allot of Home audio and Pro audio( thats set up correctly ) can utilize rear fill adequately depending on the focal point. For our trucks, rear fill is really and i mean really a massive last resort option, even more so with Xcab.

Spend the money and upgrade them front speakers, quality speakers that can take power. Bridge a class AB amp And feed those front speakers the power they deserve. You won't ever Wonder or think about rear fill!

Now if you want to use your rear swing doors to include a sub per side thats a different story

 

THIIIIISSS. rear speakers are a communist plot.

Those came out clean though.

 

I have a 2012 TRD Sport Access Cab and I have the factory openings in the metal of the rear door's but NOT in the door panel. Why do some years have panels with openings and some without? Will other model year panels fit in a 2012? Seems like a short sighted decision on Toyota's part and very frustrating to boot.

 

Rears can be good if done appropriately meaning tuned, with proper time alignment. Could be a good spot for mid-bass support. In such a cabin space if crossovers, time alignment and EQ are executed well I imagine the extra drivers could do wonders. This is assuming already a good aftermarket front stage has been done, and some means of adequate all-active processing capabilities, such as a Helix DSP for example or JBL MS-8 which can auto tune it.

 

Just finished installing 2 pairs of 6.5 Alpine R series separates in the front doors; no rears. It was very tough to fit both pairs in stock locations, literally one snatch hair of clearance on all sides, but it worked. Running 150 watts to each pair and 250 to a single 10" R Series sub. It sounds amazing and is completely stealth.

 

If not, how hard would it be to run the wires for the overhead speakers down to the door?

 

^ No.. IMO just run your own to the doors to your amp through the boot. Any decent OFC 14-16 ga I'd think. Leave the stock wiring alone and roll your own with better stuff and without any connectors in the line you might not know about.

 

I know "old post" but, I too have a ACCESS CAB wondered if anyone has tried this? Older 2005-2009 Access can door panels and line them up. They pretty much look the same WITH panels cut already?