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Adding a 5v 3amp USB charge port - need help

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Old 01-20-2013, 08:22 PM   #1
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Adding a 5v 3amp USB charge port - need help

First disclaimer: I'm new to TW, and I searched lots of threads specific to the USB idea I have... but, I didnt find anything quite what I'm thinking.

Second disclaimer: This might not be the right forum, ... it might be close to being the right one!

Third disclaimer: I don't know a whole lot about electric, although I get real attentive when it begins to smoke and spark.

So here's the idea:

I'm trying to put together a semi-mod 'off-the-shelf' solution for a dedicated USB charging port for a Samsung Note II used for nav, mp3, and misc stuff like phone calls ... anyway, the device is a real power hog.

I've learned that 5 volts is the USB charging standard, and that many/most adapters push (at best) 1000ma. Some I have found can push 2100ma.

This panel mount device from Blue Sea (part number 1016) has a 2.1amp and a 1.0amp USB port... The square bracket is removable for a clean install. It looks like the quickest solution ($25-$30 + wire and adapt-a-fuse.)



The next option is piecing together two separate components, with the benefit of gaining 3amps total power output...

This picture is a 12v to 5v converter, 3amps 15watts w/ attached female USB port ($6 on Amazon), which could be used as a 'stand alone' setup:





and this is a straight panel mount USB port with a 6' cable ($12 on Amazon).. this length could make an install just about anywhere in the cab (used with the converter above):



From reading Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#Power) I think I understand that some devices use the two inside data pins (D+ / D-) to determine if they are conected to a 'dumb' charger or a data port. I read elsewhere that some devices (including Samsung) may need to 'read' 200ohms resistance between D+ and D- to accept the 'charge only' mode, and that a 'cheat' can be done by shorting D+ to D- directly (without adding a resistor.) The two outer pins are the positive and negative power leads.

If the last scenerio is necessary, than the following combo would work (with a 200ohm resistor added?):






Would this idea work?
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:04 PM   #3
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...bump...

I think this idea will work, but I want to mock up a few of the pieces identified (especially the Blue Sea 1016) and check the electrical outputs first .... so.... this idea is going on a back burner for awhile
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outxider View Post
My setup: add-a-circuit, 12v cigarette port, and belkin dual usb plug. Works great and my rear passengers are happy.
I have a few add-a-circuit's and I know of those Belkin and other 2 port mounts that are real flush mounting.

I haven't found that cigarette socket like yours that is super flush. I envision you drill the hole, feed it through front to back with the front having a larger O.D. then the rear screws on to hold it in place or something.

Can you link me to that product? Perhaps on Amazon if they sell it? If you have time and dont mind...
thanks!
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:28 PM   #5
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http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...-projects.html

I sed the one you have on the top but intentionally set it as a constant hot.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:32 PM   #6
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Btw, my HDTV phone and iPad charge fine off of the blue sea port. You're probably doing what I did wrong... Over thinking it.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:49 AM   #7
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You might make a setup that will be able to supply the 3amps, but most devices won't allow that much juice to charge as they would catch fire if they did. Bigger tablets allow 2.1, but not 3. But your not going to get your big phone to charge with 3 amp and go from 0 battery to 100% in 20 min.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outxider View Post
My setup: add-a-circuit, 12v cigarette port, and belkin dual usb plug. Works great and my rear passengers are happy.

Looking to do something similar. Positive comes from the add a fuse but where did you ground it?
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:56 PM   #9
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You'll need to run your line through that console. Once you pull the console out there are 3-4 different places you can ground the line on brackets, the shifter, etc.

It's a really easy line to run.

Or are you looking to place the USB port somewhere else?
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:53 AM   #10
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Haven't decided yet. I'm thinking about running an inverter to the rear straight from the battery and doing a usb in the front to hardwire a use charger for my ibolt cell phone dock. Looked at the add a fuse method but only saw a positive wire so was curious where you actually ran the ground.
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:07 PM   #11
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Does anybody have a recommendation for a usb port similar to above. Amazon has one by belkin but it's like $30.
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:51 PM   #12
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The blue sea one on amazon is flush and clean. It doesn't look huge like the pic at the top of this thread because you don't use that big marine housing.

Here it is in my truck. Wired up 12v always on so I could charge w no need to put a key in ACC
I extended the red wire put some connectors so I can remove it if I want, then kept the long wire running up under the dash to the drivers side fuse box. Used an "add a circuit" from Pep Boys and put a 5A fuse to that wire. For the group (black) did the same thing and put a connector so I could disconnect if I wanted, then wired it up to the ground that is under the center console where another wire is already there. Total install time from start to 100% complete I'd say is sub 1 hour for most, but 2 hour if you havent taken your center console area out and just taking your sweet time (which is fine).

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Dual-...sb+marine+port

Look at the pics on amazon, it shows it without the big bracket. I also chose not to include the rubber cap thing. Not concerned in my back seat and i like it flush and ready to accept a USB plug.

Adding a 5v 3amp USB charge port - need help-imageuploadedbytapatalk1368658287.654231.jpg
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