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Anyone running different sized subs?

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Old 01-24-2013, 09:48 PM   #21
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I don't know how the 1st gens are laid out, but have you thought about running bigger mids under power? They have speakers that are 7" up to 9" mid-range subs. I may be wrong, and ItalynStallyn probably knows better, but I'd say that might be exactly what you need.

I had a 1st gen S-10 and I ran custom boxes in the doors with MTX 8" mid range subs. one JL audio 12" with a custom built center console, and the amps under the seats.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:51 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjmay View Post
And blake5995, any experience with building ported boxes yourself? Sealed is a bit easier but I have no clue how to build a ported one.
I have had three different subs in my vehicles they were all made by dc soundlab. Everytime i make a box i have the owner of dc soundlab (friend of mine) to design the box and i just build it lol.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Brown View Post
I don't know how the 1st gens are laid out, but have you thought about running bigger mids under power? They have speakers that are 7" up to 9" mid-range subs. I may be wrong, and ItalynStallyn probably knows better, but I'd say that might be exactly what you need.

I had a 1st gen S-10 and I ran custom boxes in the doors with MTX 8" mid range subs. one JL audio 12" with a custom built center console, and the amps under the seats.
No can do. What little space I have, I plan on using for the sub. Stock speaker mounts are 6" circles so I would eventually just have to upgrade the speakers
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:30 PM   #25
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Yeah... I mean i guess I would rather just spend the money and get really good quality 6" comps. Might eventually do some modification to the rear to accommodate for 6x9's, but that's a ways down the road. Even with how crappy the bass is on my pioneer 6" 3-ways, The 10" sub I have makes up for it. Now I think I'm gonna take the sub a little bit further. Will crap one of my back seats, but since I'm 6'3 I dont like people sitting back there anyways unless they absolutely have to, in which case I can easily disconnect the sub and put it in the bed (would have to figure out a way to secure it in the bed of course while driving)
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:44 PM   #27
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Thanks bud. Hopefully ItalynStylion will chime in again and help with my amp question.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:58 PM   #29
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Hm, thanks! Some good entry level information in there I guess. Are you running any subs or just those bigger door speakers?
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:17 PM   #30
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That was my old truck. I had a decent system in my Tacoma. I replaced the head unit and stock speakers but never got around to a sub. I am working on the layout for my new car (a challenger) which will have two 12" shallow mount Rockford Fosgates I got hooked up with.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:28 PM   #31
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Dope! Challengers are sick. Want to see some picthres of the installed subs when they're done!
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:20 PM   #33
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I put the 10 behind my seats in my dbl cab. I think most pics of access cab enclosures I have seen are some kind of box over the hump taking the center console to the back wall. Google "your year, tacoma sub enclosures" and hit pics. probably alot of ideas out there. I have 6.5 polk Db series in my front doors. I dynamat'ed each door about 25%(12x12 piece at speaker opening and more) and built an adapter out of mdf for each door, upgraded the wiring.I am running an alpine 50x4 to my 6.5" components up front. They sound good and have good kick. I cut them off around 100Hz. Definitly stick with one size sub for the lows. cheaper lets say 500x1 amp probably putting out 100 to 400 watts (90% of time). better quality amp brand that is i think its called "2006 cea compliant". is supposed to be a more true read(watts) as advertised. the amps i have gotten the last few years(kicker, alpine) were rated a little bit higher than even the advertised wattage size. My 300 watt alpine sub amp said it was test certified to 367 watts.
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:06 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjmay View Post
Dude, I have a '00 extra cab. Talk to me about space. Haha and how hard would it be to build a ported box? I want to throw in a kicker 12 or at LEAST a 10 but I was thinking either the solo-baric l7 or the brand new compR... I really like the design of the compR.
Also, (I know this question has probably been asked before), but in your opinion: is it better to have the amp put out more power (ex: 1000w amp, 800w max power sub), or is it better to have a sub with a higher handling capacity than the amp puts out? (ex: 1000w amp, 1200w max power sub)?
PM me how much space you have to give up (dimensions) and I can help you pick out a sub and design a box for it; or at least the volume and the port tuning.

As far as power stuff, it doesn't matter really. Power handling of most speakers is determined by the enclosure you stuff it into since the enclosure controls the cone from ripping itself apart.

I would always tell you to have more power than you need; but only use a portion of it. Power is really simple math. The more you have the louder it will be. If you have a speaker that's 84db efficient and you feed it 128 watts you'll get 105db of output. If you double the power to 256watts you'll get 108db. The more power you have the better. But if your speaker can't handle the full power of the amp just don't use it all...it's that simple.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:10 PM   #35
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Pm'd! Thanks for all the advice
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