Amp stopped working

So, when it comes to amps/stereo systems, I might as well be trying to read binary code. A couple weeks back, I noticed that I had no more bass. I looked at my amp and the lights werent on. I did the basics and checked be main fuse and the fuse on the amp, both of which were fine. So I checked voltage at the amp and had 12v. For some reason I left my leads on when I plugged the fuse into the side of the amp and noticed that voltage went to 0. Unplugged, back to 12 and so on.
Does anyone know of a problem with amps that would cause this? Something that is easily fixed other than just buying a new one? It is a Kicker amp by the way.
Amp gets plenty of air movement and is well mounted, it died on a day that was pretty cool so I dont see why it would overheat then when it worked great in the AZ summer.

 

I just want to make sure I'm clear. So you are checking the power wire to the input of the amp, when the fuse is out you get 12v, when the fuse is in you get 0v?

If you are going to Jake's this Friday I'll bring some tools and take a look at it for you.

 

Yep, correct. Checked my main power wire where it goes through the firewall, and where it is run under the trim, everything is fine. Cant find anything wrong externally. I cant make it to anything during the week because of school in the afternoon/evening and trying to work on my car during the morning. I am going to pull the amp and probably the sub tonight, I need to redo my sub box anyways.

 

Do you have a remote wire ? I had one ran to my headunit and once I took it out my amp would sometimes act up but ive since re done my whole truck

 

Yeah, checked the remote wire. It is good.

 

Does the amp work when the fuse is out since it gets 12v?

I'd take the amp apart and see if anything melted and is crossing.. I've never seen anything like this other than someone had their remote wire done really crappy and one of the small wires was touching the main power to the amp which never let it turn off. Make sure all the wires are clean, replace the fuses just to be sure that's not the case. If you have compressed air, dust out the amp really good.

What's the model number of the amp so I know what your working with.. this is VERY odd..

I'm more than willing to lend you a hand, I'm in chandler which is a drive from your place. But if you need some help in person just let me know.

 

The amp is a Kicker ZX400.1. It wont work with the fuse in or out. As for the remote, I am getting correct voltage from it. I ran it single wire with the joint to the harness soldered and heat shrinked. Main power wire is single cable ran under the trim with fuse 8" from the battery. Ground is 6" bolted to the body. It has worked great like that for over a year. I am going to pull it apart tomorrow to see if I can find anything.

 

So, pulled the cover off the amp and..... nothing. Everything looks good, nothing looks or smells burnt. Cant see any shorts or open wires. No dust inside, and still only minimal dust on the case and heat sinks.

 

I'm trying to build a picture in my head of this.

When you pull the fuse..where exactly is this fuse? In your power wire, or in your amp?

Where exactly are you testing that power? The wire itself removed from the amp or the 12v part on the amp where the power wire connects?

Sounds stupid but I'm working blind so just trying to visualize everything you are doing

 

Never mind, I read the thread again and see you're speaking of the amp fuse..

Try another fuse. I've seen the fuses break before and not be easily visible.

Re the overheating theory, I've had amps let go in the dead of winter here in New England, so that can happen any time of year.

Just curious, did you use spade connectors on the amp wiring? It can be loose and screw it up

 

Like ABA180 said. I would replace all the fuses just to check.. Make sure all the wires are good and secure. It's hard to troubleshoot something like this over internet. Much easier in person so PM me if you want to meet up and I'll look at it for ya.

 

I will try replacing the fuses tomorrow. Tested them both, and resistance is zip, so they are both good, but I will replace them anyways. Main fuse is the tube type. I tested the power at the hold down screws. There is a fuse in the side of the amp, when it is out, I have power readings at the terminals. When it is in, I dont.

 

Changed out both fuses. No change. Said screw it and started checking every single freakin diode. The 18th one I checked was shot. Got another one and soldered it in, works great now. Yay for dumb luck not knowing crap about amps.

 

Nice work!

 

Good deal, glad it worked! More than I could have done and I've done this stuff in my cars for a long time, so don't say you're dumb..