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Old 03-14-2013, 04:10 AM   #1
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Installing Component Speakers

Just ordered a set of Infinity Reference 6030cs to replace my front speakers in my 2011 double cab. Does any have any tips or know where I can get a wiring diagram to install these with the crossover? Do I need the crossover at all? I am using the stock HU for now. Any info will help. Thanks
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:49 AM   #2
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Yes, you will absolutely need the crossover, otherwise you will blow the tweeter and never hear the driver.

When I installed mine, i tried to leave as much factory wiring intact incase I ever wanted to sell the truck and remove my equipment. When you remove the door panel, you will see one set of wires coming through the door jam that split off the stock 6X9 and also to the tweeter. Just cut the wires to the tweeter and connect the like colors together (red to red, black to black). This will complete the existing circut and you will still have a signal to work with.

At the stock 6X9, if you do not have the speaker connector adapter (I did not), cut the wire before the stock connection and remove the speaker. The wires you cut for the 6X9 will feed the In + and - on the crossover. From there, run wire from the crossover WF + and - to the terminals on the driver and from the TW + and - to the terminals on the tweeter.

Color Chart:

Driver's Door Wiring:
Positive (+) - Pink
Negative (-) - Violet

Passenger Door Wiring:
Positive (+) - Blue
Negative (-) - Light Green

If you do not have the door speaker adapters (made by Taco Tunes or other sellers on this site), you can just use the stock 6X9 as a template. Trace the outline of the stock speaker onto a 3/4" MDF board and cut it out. Drill new mounting holes in the new template using the stock speaker as a guide and your new Infinity speakers should have a template that you can use to cut out the center hole.

The whole installation process is a lot easier than expected once you get your door panel off and see what you are dealing with. I mounted my crossovers in the open space where the door's arm rest is and drilled mounting screws into the existing metal flashing plate (you will see it partially covering the large hole in the door). Make sure it is on the correct side of the vapor barrier so no water can get to it and you will be golden.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:10 AM   #3
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Sweet.. thanks.. I ordered from Crutchfield so I will have all of the adapters and brackets
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarjamman View Post
When you remove the door panel, you will see one set of wires coming through the door jam that split off the stock 6X9 and also to the tweeter. Just cut the wires to the tweeter and connect the like colors together (red to red, black to black). This will complete the existing circut and you will still have a signal to work with.
There is no need to connect anything to anything when it comes to the tweeter. If you unwrap the wires coming from the tweeter and remove the heat wrap,you'll find that the wires are already connected (red to red, black to black) and all you need to do is cut off the tweeter at this juction and you're all set.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:36 AM   #5
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Wiring is wrong...

Passenger door....
Green is +
Blue is -

I spent a lot of time verifying this!


Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarjamman View Post
Yes, you will absolutely need the crossover, otherwise you will blow the tweeter and never hear the driver.

When I installed mine, i tried to leave as much factory wiring intact incase I ever wanted to sell the truck and remove my equipment. When you remove the door panel, you will see one set of wires coming through the door jam that split off the stock 6X9 and also to the tweeter. Just cut the wires to the tweeter and connect the like colors together (red to red, black to black). This will complete the existing circut and you will still have a signal to work with.

At the stock 6X9, if you do not have the speaker connector adapter (I did not), cut the wire before the stock connection and remove the speaker. The wires you cut for the 6X9 will feed the In + and - on the crossover. From there, run wire from the crossover WF + and - to the terminals on the driver and from the TW + and - to the terminals on the tweeter.

Color Chart:

Driver's Door Wiring:
Positive (+) - Pink
Negative (-) - Violet

Passenger Door Wiring:
Positive (+) - Blue
Negative (-) - Light Green

If you do not have the door speaker adapters (made by Taco Tunes or other sellers on this site), you can just use the stock 6X9 as a template. Trace the outline of the stock speaker onto a 3/4" MDF board and cut it out. Drill new mounting holes in the new template using the stock speaker as a guide and your new Infinity speakers should have a template that you can use to cut out the center hole.

The whole installation process is a lot easier than expected once you get your door panel off and see what you are dealing with. I mounted my crossovers in the open space where the door's arm rest is and drilled mounting screws into the existing metal flashing plate (you will see it partially covering the large hole in the door). Make sure it is on the correct side of the vapor barrier so no water can get to it and you will be golden.
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fletch97 View Post
Wiring is wrong...

Passenger door....
Green is +
Blue is -

I spent a lot of time verifying this!

Well I think you might have just saved my life. I referenced this post when I installed my components:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/aud...ve-colors.html

And to my ears the music sounds OK. But I can only really "hear" the music with my left ear when driving, when I lean across the the center console same story but with my right ear. I swear to god I thought I was going crazy and needed my ears cleaned; after seeing you post that, I now am almost convinced the sound waves are cancelling themselves out around the center of the cabin....

I will flip the input on the passenger side crossover tonight and see what happens.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:13 PM   #7
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Awesome!!

Yea, I saw a few posts that said both ways for the front passenger so I did a bunch of research and found multiple stereo places say what I posted. (green is positive) I hooked it up both ways to be sure and clearly heard a difference!

Let me know how it goes!


Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarjamman View Post
Well I think you might have just saved my life. I referenced this post when I installed my components:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/aud...ve-colors.html

And to my ears the music sounds OK. But I can only really "hear" the music with my left ear when driving, when I lean across the the center console same story but with my right ear. I swear to god I thought I was going crazy and needed my ears cleaned; after seeing you post that, I now am almost convinced the sound waves are cancelling themselves out around the center of the cabin....

I will flip the input on the passenger side crossover tonight and see what happens.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:16 PM   #8
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I also mentioned those wiring codes in this thread I started....

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/aud...-products.html
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fletch97 View Post
Awesome!!

Yea, I saw a few posts that said both ways for the front passenger so I did a bunch of research and found multiple stereo places say what I posted. (green is positive) I hooked it up both ways to be sure and clearly heard a difference!

Let me know how it goes!
You are a saint....I spent about 10 minutes last night flipping the input leads on the crossover, comapring the sound quality and dynamics. Without a doubt you are correct, the light green wire is positive. The speakers blew me away again on my ride into work - it sounds like I amp'ed them just by getting the polarity correct.

Thanks again!
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:36 AM   #10
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Nice!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarjamman View Post
You are a saint....I spent about 10 minutes last night flipping the input leads on the crossover, comapring the sound quality and dynamics. Without a doubt you are correct, the light green wire is positive. The speakers blew me away again on my ride into work - it sounds like I amp'ed them just by getting the polarity correct.

Thanks again!
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:53 AM   #11
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Bringing an old thread to life - when installing your speakers, since you connected everything to the stock wiring, I'm assuming you didn't amp your new components? So are you just running them off the stock headunit? Seems like it would be a little weak, right?
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlleiber View Post
Bringing an old thread to life - when installing your speakers, since you connected everything to the stock wiring, I'm assuming you didn't amp your new components? So are you just running them off the stock headunit? Seems like it would be a little weak, right?
Bought and installed a new pioneer head unit. If I planned on using the stock unit, I would of been better off saving the money and not upgrading the speakers.
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlleiber View Post
Bringing an old thread to life - when installing your speakers, since you connected everything to the stock wiring, I'm assuming you didn't amp your new components? So are you just running them off the stock headunit? Seems like it would be a little weak, right?
I have a set of infinity reference components in my hot rod. Running off the head unit, they were pretty weak. Then I installed an amp. Running off a 75W x 4 amp made a big difference. The mid bass tightened up and the highs were much clearer and less shrill. You still need a sub (or at least some 6x9's) to get bass.
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