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Old 04-18-2013, 05:56 PM   #21
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Is that ring terminal your using 75% rusty or is that something else? If rust replace it and if that screw shaft is sloppy I'd get an actual nut /bolt/lock washer and sand the bottom of the truck as well, also in the amp pic both black and white speaker wires look like they are cut and the black one looks awful close the the frame of the amp. I'd redo that as well. Once you're satisfied with the grounds paint over them. At least the underside one.
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:14 PM   #22
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It didn't look to me like the speaker wire insulation is entirely intact on whatever is bridged between channel 3 and 4 as well.
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:51 PM   #23
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Also... this doesn't look too good.



The lug stuck inside the clamp is preventing the bolt from getting a solid clamp on the post.
The truck is starting and charging, so it's making contact, but that's not good.
I'd look into something similar to what you have on the positive terminal.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:12 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrplr View Post
Is that ring terminal your using 75% rusty or is that something else? If rust replace it and if that screw shaft is sloppy I'd get an actual nut /bolt/lock washer and sand the bottom of the truck as well, also in the amp pic both black and white speaker wires look like they are cut and the black one looks awful close the the frame of the amp. I'd redo that as well. Once you're satisfied with the grounds paint over them. At least the underside one.
not rust, think it's some kind of paint (my hands sweat a lot - I have egsima (sp), would put on gloves but that's like putting a sock over some sweaty feet ). the terminals to the amp are shaped like a triangle. I made sure all of the connections were in there though. The frame or what have you is plastic. When I paint over them, is it okay to use rubberized paint? I found this one in a spray can looks SICK.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleu...5#.UXQqo7W0J8E

there was a little area where you could test spray the product, sprays on kind of thick'ish but I am guessing that was layer after layer... not sure how many people tested it before I got to it lol. But seems like it would be a good idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dolbytone View Post
It didn't look to me like the speaker wire insulation is entirely intact on whatever is bridged between channel 3 and 4 as well.
I'm not sure what you mean by that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
Also... this doesn't look too good.



The lug stuck inside the clamp is preventing the bolt from getting a solid clamp on the post.
The truck is starting and charging, so it's making contact, but that's not good.
I'd look into something similar to what you have on the positive terminal.
I was SOOO close to getting the neg. terminal that matched this one, but it was out of stock by the time I got funds for it. At most I'd like to keep it same/similar. I did that as a temp but it's become more than that at this time I don't really know who makes the pos terminal, I was on eBay and found some similar, but they didn't have what I was looking for connection wise (all I need is two for the top and one for a 4g so I don't have to put all these wires everywhere trying to make up the 4g - that was the intention ... guess it didn't work out as well as I thought it would).


on a side note, would it be okay for me to put some grease on the gnd connections within the cab (like how I did with the battery terminals)? Since there's going to be panels on top covering ... no? yes? curious mainly.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:31 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aw9d View Post
I don't suggest grounding to the battery personally. Find the bolt for the rear seatbelt, take it out, sand down the paint, use that. Otherwise I JL makes a plug you could feed the ground wire under the truck and go to the frame.
This or GRND it to the bolt that holds the seat down which is what I did. You want to keep ur return/GRND as short as possible.

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Old 04-21-2013, 11:40 AM   #27
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I think you're popping fuses because your wire is so damn big. That big gauge wire has very very little resistance and allows for huge current flow. Seeing as you don't need that HUGE amount of current flow you can limit the circuit by using slightly smaller gauge power cable. I use much smaller power and ground for my 1000 watt amp and haven't ever popped a fuse or had any problems what so ever.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:24 PM   #28
SHHHH, this is interesting
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Round II View Post
This or GRND it to the bolt that holds the seat down which is what I did. You want to keep ur return/GRND as short as possible.

that's what I was shooting for when I put the gnd where it was. looking at it more I'm getting annoyed at how I left it. I want to redo it all and make it look nice.



Quote:
Originally Posted by DanglingFury View Post
I think you're popping fuses because your wire is so damn big. That big gauge wire has very very little resistance and allows for huge current flow. Seeing as you don't need that HUGE amount of current flow you can limit the circuit by using slightly smaller gauge power cable. I use much smaller power and ground for my 1000 watt amp and haven't ever popped a fuse or had any problems what so ever.
lol, sorry I had intended to put in more things too (another amp and 2 air compressors ... still doing but ... yeah). It's working normally ... from what i can see, but would like to clean up the install more and get the connections right so I don't have to deal with this again later down the road.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanglingFury View Post
I think you're popping fuses because your wire is so damn big. That big gauge wire has very very little resistance and allows for huge current flow. Seeing as you don't need that HUGE amount of current flow you can limit the circuit by using slightly smaller gauge power cable. I use much smaller power and ground for my 1000 watt amp and haven't ever popped a fuse or had any problems what so ever.


No.

He could use power company transmission cable and the circuit is not going to draw more power than it needs.
Blowing fuses is because of a poor connection or short circuit.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:41 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post


No.

He could use power company transmission cable and the circuit is not going to draw more power than it needs.
Blowing fuses is because of a poor connection or short circuit.
I agree except if it were a dead short you would blow the fuse as soon as power was applied to the circuit. Im leaning towards the poor connection somewhere in the chain.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:47 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07TacoRidah View Post
not rust, think it's some kind of paint (my hands sweat a lot - I have egsima (sp), would put on gloves but that's like putting a sock over some sweaty feet ). the terminals to the amp are shaped like a triangle. I made sure all of the connections were in there though. The frame or what have you is plastic. When I paint over them, is it okay to use rubberized paint? I found this one in a spray can looks SICK.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleu...5#.UXQqo7W0J8E

there was a little area where you could test spray the product, sprays on kind of thick'ish but I am guessing that was layer after layer... not sure how many people tested it before I got to it lol. But seems like it would be a good idea.



I'm not sure what you mean by that.



I was SOOO close to getting the neg. terminal that matched this one, but it was out of stock by the time I got funds for it. At most I'd like to keep it same/similar. I did that as a temp but it's become more than that at this time I don't really know who makes the pos terminal, I was on eBay and found some similar, but they didn't have what I was looking for connection wise (all I need is two for the top and one for a 4g so I don't have to put all these wires everywhere trying to make up the 4g - that was the intention ... guess it didn't work out as well as I thought it would).


on a side note, would it be okay for me to put some grease on the gnd connections within the cab (like how I did with the battery terminals)? Since there's going to be panels on top covering ... no? yes? curious mainly.
I would also try and clean up the terminals maybe try something diff as you have just posted. I went with multi lug single blocks for mine and they are a nice no solder type and make for easy terminations.

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Old 04-21-2013, 05:18 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07TacoRidah View Post
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...pion-BTRP.html

was looking at this one. looks like it would match the pos terminal I have.

while searching the site I found this too

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-DBT024RP.html
Second one, there ya go.
My concern on the first one is the strength of the threads, and how well it will hold up under vibration. There's no compression fitting for the engine ground cable. I'd be worried that it would be a "tighten weekly" kind of thing, and eventually, it's going to strip out. It is "platinum plated"... platinum plated what?
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Old 04-22-2013, 03:51 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07TacoRidah View Post
I'm not sure what you mean by that.
It looks like the speaker wire insulation was nicked while stripping the outer jacket. It's not inconceivable that while driving, this is grounding on something momentarily. It probably isn't, but should be cleaned up anyway.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:54 AM   #34
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I'm going to go with the bad connection or a nicked wire. How did you go through the firewall? Is it in a grommet? Did it get pinched somewherealong the way? Whatever you do don't go any bigger than about an 80 amp fuse on that set up....you gonna burn something up as in truck is on fire burn something up.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:04 AM   #35
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One more thing where do the two blue wires coming out of your fuse block go to? Looks like they both go back to 12v+ post?
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:21 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dolbytone View Post
It looks like the speaker wire insulation was nicked while stripping the outer jacket. It's not inconceivable that while driving, this is grounding on something momentarily. It probably isn't, but should be cleaned up anyway.
Thanks for clearing this up, I'm so used to my wife never listening I did not check back till now!
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:28 PM   #37
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On the front rail of the front seats there is a threaded unused hole that is 6mmx1.0 (10mm bolt) that you can use as a ground. Driver side has a metal cover covering the abs or airbag connection. use that location as a ground.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:30 PM   #38
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Also upgrading the ground from battery to engine block to 0gauge so you can eliminate one of those fender grounds or both that you added.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:03 PM   #39
SHHHH, this is interesting
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_e View Post
On the front rail of the front seats there is a threaded unused hole that is 6mmx1.0 (10mm bolt) that you can use as a ground. Driver side has a metal cover covering the abs or airbag connection. use that location as a ground.
DEFINITELY GOING TO FIND THIS. hopefully there is also the same on the pass side.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:07 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dolbytone View Post
It looks like the speaker wire insulation was nicked while stripping the outer jacket. It's not inconceivable that while driving, this is grounding on something momentarily. It probably isn't, but should be cleaned up anyway.
took care of this. re cut the wires so that there's nothing exposed. saving up for some of them shrink wrap things and some loom (but I'm trying to get orange ones - both wraps and loom).
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