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Making my sub box and am rack

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Old 04-26-2013, 06:58 PM   #1
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Making my sub box and am rack

So I've mentioned before, sort of in passing threads, that my system was installed by a shop, Uttams, here in Guam. To put it politely, they suck. When I got my system installed about three years ago I didn't know anything about car audio. In that time I have consistently learned more and each time found that the shop did a crapy job on my system with one thing or another. About the only good thing they did was use legit power and ground wire. They didn't do a solid ground, but at least the wire was quality. So why am I starting this thread?
Like I said, I've done a lot of research, thank you tacomaworld, and decided that I'm going to redo the sub box and amp rack. Here's the plan.
Sub box will look like one box with one JL 10w3 on each side behind the rear seat, but will actually be two separate chambers. After reading a ton I decided on this for two reasons. 1) lots of reviews on long boxes having flex and needing bracing. 2) if one sub goes down I at least have one left with the right cu ft of air to push.
Next is I'm relocating my amp rack and making a custom mount under the seats in place of the storage. I've got some ideas to help with air flow and ill explain them when it comes time. This is going to be a couple weeks in the making as I'm waiting on my dynamat to show up. But I just did all the cuts for the box with my new tools. Ill take pics and post as I go along. Cross your fingers for me as this is my first box I'm ever attempting, and I got a D in woodshop in HS. Hopefully I'm smarter now.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:01 PM   #2
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Here's the start of what I got in Pictures.
First off is a couple pictures of a couple of the 10 or 15 pages of drawings and diagrams I tried to draw as I thought of ideas. This is the basic jist of what it should look like when I'm done.

The cut list so I don't screw up.


New tools and the cut boards

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Old 04-26-2013, 10:03 PM   #3
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Some goodies starting to go together.



I'm still putting things together right now, should have the back and top connected today and make the front angle cuts so that I can get the sub holes done.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:32 PM   #4
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Back is put together. Waiting for the glue to dry, then I'll nail gun the last piece that was glued and I'll be ready to verify the angle for the front cut top and bottom.


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Old 04-27-2013, 03:01 AM   #5
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Working the bottom section.

Mock up for my angle cuts:


And the rough cuts for the subs to fit in:
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:32 PM   #7
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Looks great. W3' have to be top 5 sub for me. What truck do you have; is it a double?
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:37 PM   #8
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Yeah it's a double cab. I just have one more divider to cut out and I should be able to put those in and put the front on and it'll be just about done. I'm super happy how it's gone thus far. I'll post the rest of the pics when I finish the box and get it painted. Then I'll start on the amp rack.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:44 AM   #9
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Got home tonight and finished the dividers and installed them.


Made my cutout rings for the subs to screw into and attached them to the face.


The face isn't fully attached yet, that'll be tomorrow. I have to make one more run to the store for some wood puddy to fill some tiny gaps and the box will be done, minus the terminal connectors.
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:28 PM   #10
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Good looking box!
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:59 PM   #11
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Sub'd
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:12 AM   #12
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Made a little progress today finally. I had to redo the top because of an unforeseen accident. Instead of scrapping the whole thing I salvaged it a bit and I think it came out good.


Painted the inside after I attached the terminal connectors.


Tomorrow I'm finally attaching the top and going to sett it up for mounting. I got all my dynamat in this week too so on Saturday the interior is coming out and everything is getting sound deadening. Almost there.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:50 AM   #13
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Box assembled. Pulling the interior to lay dynama and get box in starts in a few hours.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:38 PM   #14
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Looks like a solid box.

Just thought I would bounce some questions off of you.

Why paint the inside?

What is the depth of the box now that you have extended it with the rings? Looks like it may be a very tight fit, if it fits at all.

Do your measurements account for sub excursion and cooling?
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:23 PM   #15
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It is a tight fit. I payed the subs in and there is about 1/4 - 1/2 inch clearance. I adapted some of the measurements and made it a bit smaller that originally planned due to cubic foot calculations and forgetting about depth requirements. That is actually why I needed to add the rings to lift the subs a bit.
Painting the inside of the box, there honestly is no reason for that other than I get carried away sometimes. There is plenty of room between the sub and the seat with the measurements I used. My box design is basically adapted from previous designs, just made to fit the entire length and then sealed off into two separate chambers unlike Mose full length boxes I've seen.
Here's a picture of the reason I'm building a box. Three years ago I had a shop build me one and this is what I just found out they built.


As you can see its not even a real box. That'll teach me for not learning something before I buy.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eodrunner View Post
It is a tight fit. I payed the subs in and there is about 1/4 - 1/2 inch clearance. I adapted some of the measurements and made it a bit smaller that originally planned due to cubic foot calculations and forgetting about depth requirements. That is actually why I needed to add the rings to lift the subs a bit.
Painting the inside of the box, there honestly is no reason for that other than I get carried away sometimes. There is plenty of room between the sub and the seat with the measurements I used. My box design is basically adapted from previous designs, just made to fit the entire length and then sealed off into two separate chambers unlike Mose full length boxes I've seen.
Here's a picture of the reason I'm building a box. Three years ago I had a shop build me one and this is what I just found out they built.


As you can see its not even a real box. That'll teach me for not learning something before I buy.
HOLY SHIT! Bet that sounded horrible.

Good work on the box man, looks clean.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eodrunner View Post
It is a tight fit. I payed the subs in and there is about 1/4 - 1/2 inch clearance. I adapted some of the measurements and made it a bit smaller that originally planned due to cubic foot calculations and forgetting about depth requirements. That is actually why I needed to add the rings to lift the subs a bit.
Painting the inside of the box, there honestly is no reason for that other than I get carried away sometimes. There is plenty of room between the sub and the seat with the measurements I used. My box design is basically adapted from previous designs, just made to fit the entire length and then sealed off into two separate chambers unlike Mose full length boxes I've seen.
Here's a picture of the reason I'm building a box. Three years ago I had a shop build me one and this is what I just found out they built.


As you can see its not even a real box. That'll teach me for not learning something before I buy.
Damn that's whack
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:42 PM   #18
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If it wasn't for actually having good components all around it wouldn't have been tolerable. I can't wait to put the subs in the box and see the difference.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:22 PM   #19
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So I'm pulling apart the doors and it looks like they ran the speaker wire from the amp back to behind the deck and attached it to the stock wires. This obviously seems like crap to me. I should rerun the speaker wire directly from the amp to the speakers right? That could be the reason I keep getting the white noise I'm thinking.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:35 PM   #20
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It depends. If you have RCA outputs from your head unit, run those to the amp, then wire from the amp to the speakers. If your head unit doesn't have RCAs, you would have to run from the head wires unless you have a line our converter which will make that transition from wires to RCAs.

If you have more questions, feel free to ask.
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