Here is a rundown of the equipment:
Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-80PRS
Front Tweeters - Hybrid Audio Technologies L1 Pro R2
Front Midbass - Hybrid Audio Technologies L6V2
Subwoofer - Image Dynamics IDQ10V3D2
Amp - Audison LRx 5.1k
Misc - Stinger Battery Terminals, Stinger 4AWG Power and Ground, Audison Interconnects, Kicker Speaker Wire, IPod Classic, RAAMat BXT II, Ensolite, and very sweaty North Carolina nights in the garage. Subwoofer enclosure and amp rack provided by Mr. Marv (great guy to talk to about car audio...he is a true geek with a lot of knowledge)
Now to the Pics
Here is a pic of the actual truck from a recent family beach day on Carolina Beach. The truck handled the soft sand like a champ and didn't give me any issues. I was amazed at the number of full size Chevy and Ford trucks that got stuck. I guess the lighter truck really helped to keep from sinking down.
Here is the 80PRS shortly after UPS dropped it off.
The Stinger shoc-krome battery terminals. One 0AWG, one 4AWG, and two 8AWG connections. I'm using 4AWG power for the amp, so I have the 4AWG starter solenoid cable connected to the 0AWG output. No issues with the cable connections.
Now before anyone tells me I need 2AWG power wire for the amp, I will let you know that the amp is internally fused at 100A. 4AWG is very sufficient for a 100A system. The internal fuse will blow well before I ever need the extra capacity 2AWG gives me.
Here is the PAC SWI-RC steering wheel interface and an adapter for the factory USB port. Although I'm very handy with electronics, I had zero desire to attempt to hack into the factory USB connection. I'd rather pay to relieve some install pains. Trust me, there's already enough pain with this install.
Since the 80PRS has two USB ports, I purchased a 160GB Ipod Classic to have permanently connected to the system. Over 6k songs and just over 50% capacity utilized. I ripped my whole CD collection as WAV files.
Here is the true star of the show; an Audison LRx 5.1k. My original plan was to use a JL 500/1 from a previous install and add-on an Alpine PDX-F6 to run the fronts, however, I could not turn down the awesome deal for this Audison. This amp is purrrfect for a two-front + sub system. 50W for the tweets, 160W for the mids, and 650W for the sub...at 4 ohms. The sub channel will put out 1150W at 2 ohms (just in case I want to run two IDQ10s). Previous owner bought it from an authorized dealer and ran it for only two years. Besides a few cosmetic scratches, the amp is in great shape and has ZERO noise problems.
Crossovers on each channel with bandpass on the mids. I'm using the crossover on my 80PRS, but built-in crossovers is a nice feature.
Another nice feature of this amp is the ability to hide your cables. The RCA cable connection card is reversible to face outward (normal install) or inward (to hide the cables). On the power and speaker side of the amp is a couple plates to hide the wires - one to go on the side and the other to cover the top.
The guy I bought the amp from threw in a 6 channel Audison RCA cable. I already purchased another set of Stinger RCA cables before I bought the amp, but hey I'll take free cables! The dude spent $120 on the cable - waaaaaaaaay more than I'd ever spend. I connected the shield (drain) to ground and have zero noise issues. I know, I know, really not necessary, but I wasn't willing to take any chances on this install. I can play the Autosound 2000 zero-bit track at full volume and not a single hint of noise.
Here is a pic of the SEXY Hybrid Audio L1 Pro R2. It's a ring radiator with great off-axis response.
Sorry, but I didn't get any pre-install pics of the L6 midbasses or IDQ10. I was in a rush towards the end of the install and failed to take pics. I will add pics of the IDQ10 when I finish off the rear panels this weekend.
Now to the install pics! Install pics not shown:
- full layer of RAAMat on the roof, with double application at the center of the roof
- RAAMat on the front doors - outer shell and inner metal - and in the concave areas of the rear wall
- ensolite covered the inner door metal (on top of the RAAMat) and on the whole rear wall. I believe the ensolite went MILES to keep the panel buzzes at bay
Here is a (boring) pic of the 4AWG power and two pairs of 16AWG running down the driver's side. The passenger's side looks the same minus the 4AWG power (for obvious reasons).
The Audison RCA cable is only 5m (16ft) and I wasn't certain it would be able to reach the back had I routed it with the power cable. Therefore, I decided to run it down the center to be 100% certain it would reach the rear wall. The biggest PITA was routing it down through the dash console behind the head unit. As you can see from the pic above, the molded plastic at the ends of the cable is pretty big. Here is the cable coming down the center console after I finally got the connectors pulled through.
I used the wire brush attachment on my dremel to clean an area for the ground. This is right next to a rear seat bracket. I used a #6 bolt and nylon nut on the underside. This ground is very secure.
Here is the driver's side door after the speakers were installed. Yea, I didn't do the cleanest job with the ensolite, but oh well. No one will even see this and I didn't have issues getting the door panel back on.
Here is a pic of the amp after it was mounted. The end nearest to you is where the power wires are. I used my dremel to cut a slot in the amp rack, which allowed me to the pull the wires through hiding them from view. I used 1/4" spacers under the amp screws to provide some additional space for ventilation. Essentially the spacers are sandwiched between the amp and rack. The last thing you want mid bump is the amp going into thermal protect.
Here you can see where the wires come out from behind the amp rack. Again here I used my dremel to cut a notch in the amp rack for the wires to come out the side. I will need to cut a similar notch in the pastic trim piece to completely hide the wires from view.
Some pics of the engine compartment. I upgraded the battery ground to 4AWG and also used my dremel to clean up the grounding spot. I used a Stinger 150A circuit breaker for protection. The "bracket" I made from a piece of sheet metal I got at Lowes and spray painted it with a rustoleum rubberized undercoating. I attached it to the body using the spare threaded holes.
Here is the HU after the install. It does look dinky with a single-din, but there isn't a double din on the market that has comparable sound adjustment capability. The 80PRS met my wants: ipod integration and bluetooth. What I do hate is the fact that I need to search through my ipod using the head unit. I'd rather use the ipod click wheel to scroll through songs. The head unit is NOT the most efficient way to search through 6k songs.
I drilled a hole in the small compartment next to the ignition to route the wire for the ipod. I originally went with this location to have the ipod easily accessible for searching, but since I can't use the ipod directly I might as well have put it in the glove box. Oh well.
That's all the pics I have for now.
So, how does it sound? Awesome. The midbass sounds very clean with good impact and the single IDQ10 digs pretty deep. I'm still trying to work out the tuning on the tweets as they can get harsh on sibilance. I'm hoping I can EQ-out this problem.
The sound adjustment capabilities on the DEH-80PRS is sweet. Easy adjustment of crossover, EQ and time alignment. The menu interface took a while to learn, but once you get the hang of it it's easy to find what you need. The remote helps tremendously for setting time alignment - you can make adjustments while keeping your head still in the "driving position".
Next steps: let the speakers break-in and tweak adjustments. I'm getting more satisfied with the system after each day, so I'm planning to rock this equipment for quite some time. The most-probable future upgrade would be going to a DEX-P99RS for more adjustment capability.