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Help!!! Need to find a switched power for an amp remote wire!

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Old 07-06-2013, 02:15 PM   #1
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Help!!! Need to find a switched power for an amp remote wire!

Hey everyone I'm looking to install a amp with 2 8 inch infinities into my 2013 tacoma double cab. I am retaining the factory head unit and using a line converter until the funds become available for an aftermarket. After i looked at the switched power for the radio to turn on I noticed the wire was very wimpy and did not want to hook into there. So now I am at the crossroads as to where will I find power. Looking in the kick panel and in the Incab fuse panel is very intimidating. So can someone steer me towards what I should hook up to in the kick panel on the numerous connectors and wires. Thanks everyone
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:45 AM   #2
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You could get it from the brake light +, that way your subs hit when you have the brakes applied, which is about as good as using LOC on a factory head unit in my opinion. I did this on my daughter's car unwillingly and hated it, really really hated it. There's no way to band pass the door speakers and getting the sub to balance with the rest of the system at different volumes just wasn't possible. You really need to replace the head unit or use some kind of intermediate DSP to add a sub to a factory system and have it not totally suck.

My advice is to do it right the first time, save the 150 bucks it takes to get a head unit with proper audio controls for using a subwoofer before you install anything.
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:21 PM   #3
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im assuing your talking about the The remote wire that kicks on your amp when the car is on the remote wire for your amp doesnt draw much power.. What i would suggest is get a double fuse thing ..(an Add-a-fuse) and add a fuse, and wire to your ignition fuse.. that way when the ignition switch is on it turn the amp on...

IF your talking about your amp wire to draw the 12V.. go through the firewall and connect to battery..
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dolbytone View Post
You could get it from the brake light +, that way your subs hit when you have the brakes applied, which is about as good as using LOC on a factory head unit in my opinion. I did this on my daughter's car unwillingly and hated it, really really hated it. There's no way to band pass the door speakers and getting the sub to balance with the rest of the system at different volumes just wasn't possible. You really need to replace the head unit or use some kind of intermediate DSP to add a sub to a factory system and have it not totally suck.

My advice is to do it right the first time, save the 150 bucks it takes to get a head unit with proper audio controls for using a subwoofer before you install anything.
Dude your confusing this guy with the wrong info?? He asked about the remote wire (which taps into an ignition source, never lights or windows EVERRRRR) and you don't need an aftermarket head unit that's BS. All you need is a "line output converter" which is like a second source of power that converts your speaker into RCA, which also makes it so it doesn't draw power from your speakers and give you terrible bass. Don't waste your money on a POS aftermarket unit when the converter will probably make it sound even better than almost every aftermarket head unit, for 80 bucks. But as far as tying in an ignition wire I'm not sure what slot in the fuse box it will be on.
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