Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

I have all accessories(winch, light bar, rock lights, fogs, 2 additional 12v plugs, compressor, etc.) wired to my acc battery with the IBS dual battery mgt system. The IBS monitors each battery and will auto link the two if needed for additional v. I also have the option of manual linking as well as the system will shut down if I run the batteries down while the truck is shut off and allow me to always have enough power to start the truck.

 

One battery for all things Toyota. Other battery for everything else.

 

Wheres your abs module?

 

Off-roads with atrac and what not have it apart of the master cylinder

 

interesting location for the monitor

 

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valid

 

Anyone know why mi dash lights, headlights, Led bars dim when my sub goes off? I have 1 battery connected to the amps only and the other battery for the others stuff.

 

LOL- Goes off? or hits?

Check all your grounds.

 

Yeah when it hits, started making it since the dual/ relocation battery mod

 

If you toss a couple Caps in there, the issue will be gone. Get a couple 1/ .5 farad caps. Issue will resolve itself. Which side of the battery is the amp on. AUX or Main?

 

on the aux battery I have connected the amps only

Left battery

 

All the grounds are good?

On my last setup, I was using a 50 farad hybrid Stinger cap. It was the size of a Large Amp. Set it to 14.4 V and never had a light dim.

 

Maybe I'll need a cap. Grounded to the frame, got pics of your grounds?

 

Right now? No. I am not amped anymore. However, When I ground to the frame, I take a wire brush and or a file and clean that spot BARE> then ground to the bare metal . Issues are always getting rid of that paint.

What amp setup are you running? Wattage? Sub? RMS? etc. Shoot some specs at me.

Stock alternator?

 

Yeah I took the paint off the frame where I grounded it. I'm running 1 alpine PDX 1000w RMS for the subs and 1 alpine PDX 400w RMS for the speakers. 2 JL 10'' W3 500w RMS each and 4 polk audio speakers 100w RMS each. Stock alternator. 1 optima red top for the amps only and 1 die hard 31m for everything else.

 

My setup.

I was running Rockford Fosgate gear in my denali. Upgraded to 2 alternators. Had 3x 12" and 4 amps. DYNAMAT Running everything @ 1ohm Mono - 50 Farrad hybrid cab. 6x 1.5 farad caps. 4/0 gauge everywhere. 4 batteries. - Full system done in Stinger components and Rockford speakers and subs. Dual din Pioneer


Been years.

used dual batteries and upgraded Alternator with a Full Alpine type x setup in a Civic 4 door. 2x 12"s - 2 amps - Mono - 2 ohm - DYNAMAT Alpine Dual Din head unit. 50 farad hybrid cap 2/0 gauge all over - Stinger components

Z-28 Iroc Camaro - Full top of the line Orion setup . 1x 12" - 2 amps. upgraded alternator. 6x 1 farad caps - 2/0 gauge, Stinger components, Clarion Headunit. DYNAMAT .


I was serious. Occasional none bleed and itchy nose was a constant.

When I had access, I would get a buddy to tack a M8 nut to the frame within 18" of each of my batteries. Then I would attach the grounds there. Same with the amplifiers. Within 18" or less.


I owned a Car Audio shop in FL for a couple years before I sold it and moved. We ran comps all the time and were sponsored by a couple of the name brands.

 

Well damn, thats not an unreasonable setup. I think once theres a couple caps in there the issue will resolve itself. Still though. Verify all the connections. Maybe upgrade the main run from the main battery to the front of the truck with the next size up. Voltage loss/ draw on the system. .

Audio systems are always a mess when it comes to the power draw. Upgrading everything related to power was always our resolve. We sold a ton of alternators.

 

Nice, thats crazy audio haha. I just want a good system nothing too crazy lol

 

I have a bad habit of getting the 'best' (which isn't always the best) and using my vehicle as a demo for people to gauge their interest in whatever I am into at the time.