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Repairing your dash after a thief destroyed it

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by fbconvert, Feb 19, 2014.

  1. Feb 24, 2014 at 1:34 PM
    #21
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    Brian, looks like your doing a great job on that thing. Sucks when that happens. Your lower dash section should be done and shipped out tomorrow.
     
  2. Feb 24, 2014 at 2:02 PM
    #22
    fbconvert

    fbconvert [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Awesome man, thanks again for everything!
     
  3. Feb 27, 2014 at 2:51 PM
    #23
    fbconvert

    fbconvert [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I just upgraded the headunit to a nav one with entune from TWmember FLTrucks. It was plug and play. Now I am just waiting on the lower dash piece. Also now that I have a nav unit in the truck I'm going to add the voice switch to the steering wheel, pretty much the same way I did with my truck by making it myself.
     
  4. Mar 1, 2014 at 3:16 AM
    #24
    TacomaDblCab

    TacomaDblCab Well-Known Member

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    Window Tint, Kenwood DDX 470, Polk Audio DXi6500 (front), Polk Audio DXi650 (rear)
    Nice work! I'm surprised they left you enough wiring to work with.
     
  5. Mar 1, 2014 at 3:44 AM
    #25
    cabo wabo

    cabo wabo Well-Known Member

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    That Sucks, Who ever did that should have their hands cut off.
     
  6. Mar 2, 2014 at 9:45 AM
    #26
    fbconvert

    fbconvert [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I finished adding a voice switch to the steering wheel control. I'm not sure why toyota decided not to support voice commands on the stock unit but the 2014 nav unit I swapped in its place does.

    There are two basic ways you could add the voice switch. The easiest way will allow you to mount the button anyway on the dash or where ever you see fit.

    Using this steering wheel circuit, just added a switch with an inline resistance that ranges from 3,178 ohms to 3,242 ohms and tapped into the SW2 wire and SWG wire from the back of the stereo.


    e549b143-f78c-47d5-b860-15d651273c37_zps_13be0f983ee1d740d3b5a52b4174f7922610f4f0.jpg

    2014-03-0210_06_42-80444A32-F360-4AAF-B8_09af4861b6ce8c117fb83c3b08fb8f580760b943.jpg

    I only did this to confirm that it does work. You can use any momentary switch. After I tested this first method out I decided I was going to try and install the switch on the steering wheel.

    First I disconnected the battery ground since I was going to be working around the Airbag. Then I followed these steps:

    temp2_zps0f369852_7e86158ee6aaf56ee6262a997d4bf6c587305fe2.jpg
    temp_zps7703f32d_fc114d53bbb3615a7a7c452408f30f74bdc8b698.jpg



    I did not have to disconnect the airbag I only carefully set it onto of the steering column. Next, I removed switches then disassembled them:


    EB7219C3-461D-4CB8-9E75-1DF03045EE90_zps_4fcc4b531293ca07697ce98e0e29582ccd4ef80c.jpg



    If you look at the circuit board you can actually see the contacts for the voice switch. I soldered wire leads as shown bellow.



    C6FCAA83-42DB-4FBA-A9B1-93CE8B8400AB_zps_3d11439e2ae095d80052551a7ba414242db7b057.jpg



    Then I had to cut two little hole in the rubber contact pad to allow the wires leads to poke through. Also drilled a hole in the back part of the assembly to run the wire to the switch. Note: I only needed to wire a switch to the voice leads on the circuit board. The resistors are already part of the circuit board.



    1E357F96-DF25-4D06-9026-E962CF9E3D2F_zps_5f253b0cdee54c7d39ee5ae680aeac9b8fae0277.jpg




    This next part is why I wouldn't recommend this method. I cut a very small whole in the assembly cover for the switch to be mounted to.



    8AAB7507-BE6D-49DB-A87A-E3CE3E7CE9A8_zps_6385799e8446dd1b8aa3b8f634574a5e6e6e83d3.jpg



    Then using JB weld I epoxied the switch in place and connected the wires.



    FFD1E82E-40DE-4540-BB49-B17FE7328B79_zps_b260e06ed3ee14a289b686565e11c65c2472de87.jpg

    B11631F3-C996-4229-B1F4-C819ADA6FA99_zps_0702860c80fa0a756a4b0339f56963e11b729670.jpg




    Then I installed the switches and put everything back together.


    Airbaginstall_zps4b9f030f_4d93036db87a0e7fb8a5a694862f1fb6c2dffa3e.jpg



    Here is a shot of the voice control switch working with the stereo after the install.


    FA7893A8-67D1-436F-BBA4-BAC6638C7E1E_zps_f580017be0629352a256db7ec9c4967f19bee076.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2014
  7. Mar 4, 2014 at 9:52 AM
    #27
    tony2018

    tony2018 Well-Known Member

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    Wow thats interesting, GJ. We really need to compile all of this and sticky it for different yr/models. I'm seeing more of these open posts coming up and people asking for info.
     
  8. Mar 4, 2014 at 10:43 AM
    #28
    fbconvert

    fbconvert [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I notice that too. In regards to the actual nav unit I would suggest check out this thread there is a lot of good information in there for adding the nav unit to other year tacomas. Since I have an extra 2013 touch screen head unit I'm going to try and make it work with my 2005 JBL tacoma. I ordered a converter that I am hoping will allow me to keep using the factory amp. If it works I plan on ordering another nav unit from FLTrucks (if they are still available) and then installing it in my 2005.
     
  9. Mar 4, 2014 at 2:58 PM
    #29
    metal4130

    metal4130 Well-Known Member

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    Can you take a picture of the tools you used and how you used them to crimp those pins onto the wire??
     
  10. Mar 4, 2014 at 3:27 PM
    #30
    fbconvert

    fbconvert [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I posted a picture on the first page of most of the tools I use. As for crimping the pins, I didn't have the OE crimper designed for the pins. I just use a pair of needle nose and then added just a little bit of solder. You need to be careful not to add a lot of solder or else the pin won't fit in the connector.

    Here is what the OE crimper looks like

    [​IMG]

    Its part number is 1762337-1 but everywhere I looked this thing retails for thousands of dollars lol

    I think you will be better off searching mini crimper on ebay and picking up something that looks like this.

    [​IMG]
     
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    #30
  11. Mar 18, 2014 at 8:39 PM
    #31
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    Rob
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    '09 Sport DCLB Met Grey
    Toyota bed mat (1st mod), Toyota all season floor mats, Rear spring TSB, Map light mod, Fog light mod, Putco yellow fog bulbs, Weather Tech window vents, Extra d-rings, Mounted mag light, TRD CAI with AFE pro dry filter, '05 front mud flaps (winter only), 2 set's of wheels/tires, 285/75/16 Hankook MT's, Black Painted 1st Gen TRD wheels (wheeling set) Black powder coated FJ Cruiser with 265/70/17 BFGoodrich KO2's (everyday), painted center of grill & bumper black, Devil horns, OME with 885's + spacers front, OME shocks w/OMD designed rear springs, Front diff drop, Rear trailer plug relocate, ATO IFS skid, Relentless Trans & Transfer skids, BAMF bolt on rock sliders, Relentless tailgate reinforcement, Uniden 75 CB radio, BAMF antenna bracket, TRD exhaust, high lift jack w/ATO mounts. And of course ProEFX Towing Mirrors!
    Looking great. Any more progress?
     
  12. Mar 19, 2014 at 8:01 AM
    #32
    fbconvert

    fbconvert [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey, Sorry I have been meaning to say thanks for the parts. I got everything in the mail a while back. I had to clean up the USB port a little. I can see why you can't sell any electronics off those trucks now. Anyways, I got it put back together. The usb and Aux jack are working good, and thanks to FLTrucks good deal on a 2014 Nav unit, I'd say the truck is better then it was before all of this.

    E5C5B65F-767D-467B-B540-0DBC45B75CE9_zps_b5602465293da7d5e52a9f97c7db4844214c758b.jpg
     

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