This will require some thinking, but I'm going to make it work.

No, I didn't mean cutting the back wall, I meant cutting the wood to get a tight seal. I definitely see the benefits of it. Drawbacks being it's not removable, but honestly, I set and forget, don't really remove the sub enclosure at all once it's back there. Deadening is in place, and the crossbrace is filled with expanding foam, so it's solid back there. I lose the child seat anchors, but no biggie, as my wife and I are done with kids. It would make things easier, just use cardboard for a template to cut the sides with, and make a flat bottom and top. Silicone is cheap, and the gun to spread it is too. About how many L-brackets would I need to make sure this thing isn't going anywhere? I assume one on each side, for each side into the cross brace, but where else would I mount L-brackets? I don't want to drill a bunch of holes in my truck for no good reason, or puncture the outer skin, and have a screw sticking out.

 

I used about 4 on each side piece for my box. I also used some across the top and bottom, but the amount is up to your discretion as long as you're sure it will hold. I wouldn't worry about them peaking out the back. I've tried to look for them and they're almost impossible to find between the cab and bed. Just don't go using longer screws than you need to.

 

How long a metal screw did you use? 1/2"?

 

Yes, 1/2" should be fine. I might have used 3/4".

 

Thanks. I'm designing a box right now, with the back wall as the back of the enclosure. This may be my most adventurous endeavor yet.

 

So, I've made cardboard templates of the sides, taking into account the .75" baffle board I'm using. I'm not going to be able to countersink the subs. They stick up about 3/8" of an inch past the template. That means that countersinking is out. If it were flush with the template then I could countersink. So, I have to mount the sub a little higher in the box than the standard, right off the base, to give it space for the seat to go up and down. I don't see myself moving the seatback much, but just in case, I don't want to tear a surround, or have it beating against the bottom brace of the seatback.

 

Have you decided what you will do with the seat back cover? Will you remove it completely or perforate it? It does make a notable difference.

 

Co-signed

 

Seat back cover has already been removed. I found with the Sundowns there was a lot of rattle with them on, so they're in my basement right now. That's where they'll stay for this build.

 

richard, let me know when you start.
ill come over and take a look/ help you out.

You will love those subs, my 8 are arriving shortly.
I can show you what i did with my first set up and it worked out Perfectly.
I would still stick to the original plan.

 

You're probably right. I just did the "pound" test on the back wall, and it's kinda flimsy. I think building a "standard" box, and cutting out some holes for the magnets, and fiberglassing them in might be the best route. IDK, something about the back wall doesn't impress me with it's rigidity.

 

Well, I have decided one thing today. I'm going with two 1200w amps, one for each sub. That should get them dancing! Just gotta wait for the tax return.

 

Are you worried about breaking the metal?

Also, consider that the top and bottom members of the wall-mount type enclosure will be tightly secured by L- brackets, increasing the "rigidity" of the back wall. And if it doesn't make it 100% rigid (which it probably will not), the more flex from the back wall that occurs during playing means the more aperiodic dampening effect for your subs. Just make sure you have a tight seal and enough bracing to keep things in place.

Just my professional .02

This is my current box. Built using the back wall, holding two JL 10w6v3's.

Do you have multiple batteries and an upgraded alternator?

 

Do you have pics of the build of that box? Looks really great, and I could use some inspiration to swing one way or the other. As for batteries and alternator, that's where the tax return comes in, alternator and AGM battery on the list. I have one amp now, should show up tomorrow, it's an Alpine PDX-M12. IF it's not enough, I can always get a second. That's the thought anyways.

 

Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of the build process. Yours should be more simple than what I had to do since it will be behind the seat and you won't need to build the side panels to blend it with the rear interior panel. Also, a brace in the middle of your box would be a good idea to promote structural integrity even more. I can provide more advice later when I'm not writing from my phone.

 

Hmmm........you're making this difficult for me Shane. I'm getting multiple sides of the story on this one, and building with the back wall would make things easier for me, instead of building a "standard" box. It's tempting. I sent you a PM for some clarification, but I'm wanting to get on this ASAP, maybe even today. I've got the MDF ready to go, just deciding which way to go. Just deciding if I need L-brackets and silicone or not.

 

Okay, going Shane's direction. Going to cut the wood now. I'll take pics of the build process, and post them up, as well as how hard or easy all this is. Stay tuned.

 

Okay, I'm going to preface this build by saying I have a bad knee right now. I'm off work except for a couple hours a day. So this will be slow.

I have a couple pictures so far, here's the first.

Okay, at the bottom of the side pieces, the back of the truck rolls in a little. To account for this, you need to trim the side pieces, or sand them, like I did, to get a nice round curve, not a straight back. It smooths in nicely, maybe a .25", nothing to freak out about.

Here's all that I got done today so far, I may be able to get more done after icing and heat on my knee for a while, as well as some Advil, we'll see.


Fully framed in, with the cutout for the seat bracket in place. That part's a little more tricky, as if you look at the back of the truck, it "ripples" or has a stamped pattern in it, to give it strength. Careful cutting and sanding will get you the right fit. Just make the pieces a little big, and sand them down a little at a time. I used a sanding roller on a dremel, but a palm sander may work.

Hopefully, my knee will let me screw and silicone tonight. I'd like to get it in there firmly, and see what kind of screwups I made, and have to fill with extra silicone.

That's all for now.

 

Go to bed wondering why box not sitting flush against back wall. Wake up with realization that because of hard edges along top, and rounded edges along bottom, I need to router or bevel the edges. Yay! Stay tuned.

 

So, today, I had to run an errand to Home Depot for the wife, and all the walking in that store played a number on my knee. So I didn't get as much done as I'd like.

I did bevel the back edges, to get it to sit flush to the back wall, much tighter fit now. Then.......

Glued and screwed. Glued together all the parts of the box, and screwed it to the back wall with about 12 brackets. It's on tight, and not going anywhere.
Then..............

Siliconed the hell out of it. It's sealed tight once the silicone cures. Until then, my truck stinks, but in the end, it'll be worth it, having 12"s back there. Tomorrow, the baffle goes on, and the wiring can begin. I have to mount the new amp, good place under the passenger seat, I already flipped the bar that's there. Let me know what you think?