upgraded my factory audio system in 2009 wanting to upgrade again!

Hey folks sorry for the long subject line! going to try and make this quick short on time but i will have a better updated,informed and detailed info on my audio system tom for any questions you guys might have! I currently have a custom built amp rack and sub enc. built by mr marv my sub is the Jl 13tw5 (1st gen model) My amps are JL slashV2 500/1 and slash V2 300/4.. My 4 channel is pushing a set of JL audio XR560-CSi components in front doors and of course my 500watt mono block to the sub. I have a pioneer avh-p1400dvd which is powering my rear 3 way co axial built by pioneer.

My question is would it even be worth adding a second 13tw5 and purchasing a jl 1200 watt amp and bridging it to power them both or i wouldn't even be able to notice the increase in deeper lows? waste of money adding another sub? should i upgraded some keeping a few things or start from scratch. Not trying to sound disrespectful to anyone but money is not an object so fire away with your best ideas since I've been saving money and I'm treating myself to a graduation present instead of blowing money on spring break i can enjoy this system for years.

If i were to install two jl 13tw5's and purchase a matching set of components for both my front a rear doors would that be overkill or do i just need a set for the from stage? Please don't laugh I'm still kind of a newbie and the only way to learn is to ask question and if your wrong thats how you know not to make the same mistakes! I'm open to any ideas,opinions comments or two cents etc. I was thinking go going with the version 2 of the jl13tw5 at 2ohms and buying the new 750/1 amp

anyways thanks guy looking forward to hearing what you guys have to say )

 

96 VIEWS!!! Not a single opinion or idea from one person on what kind of changes I should make! thanks anyways guy/gals! Can someone please get me the contact info for MR. Marv? He built my original sub box and amp rack for my 05 DC... We used to talk and chat for hours on end but of course I lost my phone and all my numbers so if anyone has his cell number or email to pass onto me that would be great! Id love to catch up with him and talk about my new speaker box!!!

 

nothing can be overkill when it comes to truck audio sometimes its a bit excesssinve but never overkill. also i advise asking a million questions dont be ashamed asking could save your alot of time and money....
as for the subs make sure your matching sub rms wattage and amp rms wattage if your subs say 500 watts rms and the amp says 1200 watts max your probably only getting about 750 watts out of the amp when 1000 watts is whats needed and trying to run 2 subs on 2 amps is very difficult because you need to perfectly match the wattages of the amp to not get a lot of distortion...

not sure if ive answered your question but ill be on all day just ask away

 

I run two sets of JL Audio ZR650-CSI's and even another set of XR tweeters, (2) 13TW5's, 750/1 and 600/4. Coming from a single slot ported 12W7 to the TW5's don't hit that low or deep compared to a single 12W7's. Quite frankly I am happy with the setup cause it's thin and safer then a huge box on the rear cab just sitting there but I do miss the W7.

 

The jL 13tw5v2 rms is 600and peak is 700 and I was planning on getting two! JL audio makes a 1200v2 watt amp so that amp wouldn't have enough power for both the subs? Or I would need to find a bigger amp to push the subs! Also the subs come in 2ohm and 4ohm if I'm getting a bigger amp and running two subs I need the 4ohm? Thanks if I chose one sub ill prolly get the 750 watt amp! Thanks

 

unless you get a 1 ohm stable amp i would get 2 4 ohm subs because you will get the most power out of the amp that way do you know the model of the amp your looking at and ill see what the rms settings are

 

Those subs handle 600w RMS and that amp is 1200W RMS. That would be a perfect match up. Also, if you run 2 subs, you will need to get (2) 4Ohm subs so you can run them parallel (+,+,+) (-,-,-) to get an overall 2Ohm load to the amp.

And, correct me if I am wrong, but the specs online for that amp seem to say 1200w for any load....? Is that true?!?!

Also, if you do decide to upgrade to 2 new subs, let me know what you want for the old JL if it is still in good shape...i have been looking for one.

 

Also, no big reason to get rid of the 4 channel amp, unless you are going to get some components that need more than 75w. Even if the components says 100w, that amp would be plently. i know some sets can handle 150-200w, but will run you $300&up then will require a larger amp....possibly upgrage to 0gauge wire, larger alternator, secondary battery,etc.... Im not too familiar with Tacoma electrical yet, but I ran 2 L7s on a 1500.1 and 2 component sets on a 350.4 in my old dakota and needed to upgrade all of that.

 

Here is the specs of the amp

Rated Continuous (RMS) Power @ 14.4 V
@ 4 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 3 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 2 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 1.5 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
Rated Continuous (RMS) Power @ 12.5 V
@ 4 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 3 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 2 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
@ 1.5 Ω 1200 W RMS x 1
General Specifications
Frequency Response 5 Hz - 250 Hz (+0, -1dB)
S/N Ratio, referred to highest rated power >95 dB below rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth)
S/N Ratio, referred to 1 W (Main Channels) >65 dB (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth)
Damping Factor @ 4 Ω >500 / 50 Hz
Damping Factor @ 2 Ω >250 / 50 Hz
THD+N @ Rated Power (Main Channels) <0.05% @ 4 Ω
Input Voltage Range @ RCA Inputs Switchable from 200 mV - 2 V RMS (Low) to 800 mV - 8 V RMS (High)
Min Copper Power / Ground Wire Gauge 4 AWG wire
Fuse Rating 100 A (AFS, AGU or MaxiFuse™)
Signal Processing
Filter Modes Low-Pass only
Filter Slope (dB/Octave) 12 dB or 24 dB
Filter Frequency Range 40-200 Hz
Detented, Calibrated Filter Freq. Potentiometer Yes
Filter Defeatable? Yes
Infrasonic Filter Variable, Defeatable
Bass Boost EQ Parametric
Output Polarity Switch Yes
Remote Subwoofer Level Control No
Remote Bass EQ Boost Control Optional (RBC-1)
Pass-Through Preamp Output Buffered, w/independent filter
Physical Specifications

 

Hey Arron my whole system is JL lol!! Were you talking about if I'm selling the sub or amps? Because my whole system is for sale even my pioneer head unit it's the avh-p4100dvd/cd player

 

Also what's a decent set of components at a reasonable price I could buy to install for my highs using my current 300watt 4ch

 

I've never used an amp that did that. Usually, the 4ohm load would get half the power the 2ohm load would. ie, Kicker Zx500.1 amp @2ohms puts out 500rms, then @4ohms puts out 250rms.

That is a nice "feature", so you wouldnt have to worry about which subs to buy.

 

Sorry, i was referring to the sub.

 

I had two sets of Kicker KS650.2. $199/ea. They were the 2010 models, not the 2014s that can handle 100w. One for front, and one for rear. I know some people dont like the sound that rear components make, but i really liked it. Ran them with the ZX350.4. Very loud and clean. I know the tacoma front door is a 6x9, kicker makes a 6x9 component 40CSS694 $169, but i have never used it.

Kicker has the 40CSS654 6.5 Component 100Wrms that i think i am going to buy, $149/ea or the DS series 75Wrms below for $119/ea. Only a difference of 25w handleing, but my amp puts out 75w/channel.

I know you dig the JL, but I have always ran Kicker.

 

these wattages are not possible the wattages will be higher at lower resistance

this amp isnt giving much more power then a radios amp most radio aamps run about 50w and this only gives about 75watts at each speaker but as for speakers normally i would say get speakers close to the rms put out by the amp but you could go with a higher rms speaker

are you wanting to stick with jl system you would want a set of components for the front and you can put a set of components in the back but you will need to find a place for the tweeter... or you can go with a set od 2 ways for the back which will give you a tweeter and speaker in one,,, also you will need a 6x9 to 6.5 conversion panel for the front because our front mids are 6x9s

 

His stock unit says 50W Peak, 14W Rms. Adding an amp alone would make the speakers sound better/louder at 75W rms. I was always told to go off of RMS. Peak was always told to me as a "marketing" catch. Like I had a 1000W Sony amp back in the day, and it really only put out about 200W Rms.

Im sure the Peak is there for a reason, but i dont know that reason.