speaker recommendations

Why bash the bikes? And if you don't want to help people, why even post a response.

Yes, I do care what other people think. I would like to provide a decent sound experience for the passengers of my vehicle. Why do people 'cruise' their vehicles...because they want to show it off. How is this any different?

I can tell the difference between stock speakers and polks. I'm asking for recommendations to a decent set of speakers. I'm sorry if that is too difficult for you to provide. There are many of us on this board not looking for the ultimate system but something that is well priced, works well with the stock hu, does a decent job and is not too expensive.

Since I plan to buy online, I guess I'll take a shot in the dark. And my price range is from $100-$200 for all 4.

How about these up front:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086020cs/Infinity-Reference-6020cs.html

With these in the back:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086022si/Infinity-Reference-6022si.html

 

Those would be just fine if they sound good to you.


Have you thought of getting a set of 6X9's for the front, and adding another tweeter in the stock location? All it would take to protect the extra tweeters is a simple passive crossover. You can buy them from Crutchfield too if I remember right.

You could probably bring your costs down a little as well.

The reason I suggest the 6X9 is that you'll get better bass from the larger driver. Unless you plan on adding a sub...then never mind.

 

I've been reading on and off today and I'm looking at getting a pair of ID 6.5 components for the front. They seem to get great reviews and dont break the bank. A lot of people seem to say that rear fill isnt needed, and I dont really care too much about the passengers, so I'll probably just leave the stock ones there for now. I'll eventually get an amp for them and I'll also add a GPS/DVD/etc. HU, and maybe a couple of 10's for behind the back seats (*********, MrMarv?). So thats what I'm thinking for now, somebody chime in if I'm way off base.

Thanks for all the replies... Im lookling forward to hanging around here and slowly working my way down the different "tacoma garage" sub-forums as I keep scratching my mod itch!!

 

no offence man, but that comes off as very uppety and slightly ignorant.

what is obvious by the op's post is that he isn't looking to get into this hobby too deep..... yet

op- what i would do in your situation is look for a set of speakers that are made to handle a low wattage 4 ohm (which is what i believe the factory hu, and most aftermarket hu's run from the harness) load.


my personal recommendation to you is to look at the infinity kappa's (what i am currently running), and some polks. i have personally heard both of these component sets amped, and un-amped. and they are very impressive compared to your stock setup.

 

GAH I hit the back button somehow and lost my whole post. You get the 30 second version instead, sorry

I'm not. I'm saying don't waste money on something if you can't tell a difference. use the money towards a wicked nice bike

My intent was to help. Sometimes emotions get lost on forums. Seems like my humor was misconstrued as well.

If you are out to please everyone else, you don't ever get what you want. That's all I'm saying. It should make you happy, because you had to pay for it.

Depends on who the crusier is. Big difference between a classic car show and a primer grey rice rocket with a fart cannon. Both people are trying to show off, but there is a world of difference there. I think I am off topic now.

If you read through this board, that IS a difficult if not impossible task to accomplish. Marv's big quote is something like, "I can't hear what you hear." We are all listening and wanting something different from our audio.

This can all be pretty subjective. I used to think $120/pair speakers were incredibly expensive. That's why this is always a case-by case basis.

Note that online sales are usually spendier, plus it limits you from what is considered the higher-end audio spectrum. Note that high end doesn't always have to carry a high price.

With that budget, I would consider ignoring the rear and focusing on fronts only (rear speakers aren't necessary, and better setups usually ignore rear speakers). Since you liked Polk, there's a set on crutchfield that would just about max your budget for a pair, and probably get you closer to what you want.

 

try some Boston Acoustics, Infinity Kappa's, Kenwood, Morel, Diamond Audio. Just a few that I have tried and experienced with. Best thing is to check out a stereo shop and do a sound off with there demos.

 

Some good advice here. And chicken, thanks for the clarification. My bikes definitely get spoiled before anything else

Can you explain this? You suggest replacing the stock tweeters...correct?

What about 3way 6x9's and disconnecting the stock tweeters?

Why does Crutchfield say 6x9's will not fit in my truck?

I realize this is not the IDEAL setup but it would work well, correct? Again, I have the stock HU but will probably replace it next year.

Also, because it is so heavily recommended, I will head down to The Stereoshop this afternoon and listen to a few sets. The reason I hate doing so is the vulture-like sales people. They see a 2009 Tacoma roll into their parking lot and start salivating. I've heard they are not doing well right now with the economy. I've also bought from them before and their prices are nothing to sing about.

I would like to buy from Crutchfield to get the mount they include free.

 

You have more than one? Only $8k or so more in payments before I can even think about my first. AAAH!!


In response to the idea about 6x9's with extra tweeters... probably not the best choice, since this can confuse your imaging. In other words, your highs are going to not sound as clear, and won't be able to discern positioning. Higher sounds are very directional, and having the same sound come from multiple angles is detrimental. This isn't so much an issue with subs because you really can't hear the positioning with that frequency of sound, and hence why you can put in more than one and not have problems.

6x9's are kinda the poor man's way of getting more bass. There's nothing wrong in that, I'm just saying that it's a 'trick' you can do. Once you move towards subs and such, they aren't as desirable because of the accentuation of lower notes.

It's possible, but look into what people are saying about disconnecting the factory tweeter - there's some wiring tricks (I haven't paid attention). I would advise against this path though, because you move the tweeter to a place where the sound is hitting your leg and the sound will get more muffled.

It requires a baffle, for starters. Secondly, it's most likely that the speakers you picked require a greater mounting depth than what the truck offers. Rolling down the window would smack the speaker.

Plan for the end goal, don't do 'half-step' setups. It ends up costing much, much more. Start with either your end goal speakers or the head unit. If you are going amped, plan out what amp you are getting and ensure that the speakers you have now will be properly matched to that amp.

Ugh, I think I have some of the worst, and I think they happen to be paid on straight commission. I've been mean enough to one guy here that he frowns and hides in the back until I leave.
But yeah, there's only so many ways you can listen to things in person. Bring an iPod with PURCHASED songs. We need high bitrates and as-close-to-original reproduction as we can get, which usually means CDs, but an iPod is much easier. Bring songs you know, but not necessarily just songs you like - try listening to songs that employ difficult changes and vast instrument usage. I'm not sure how true this is, but an old trick was to play the Little Mermaid soundtrack due to the demanding complexity of the music.

Forgot to mention, when trying things out you may notice the salesman fiddle with dials or pick different gear while switching. He does this to try making one speaker sound better than the others, or just to plain confuse your ears into thinking something is bad. When listening, choose a setup closest to your end goal. If that's not possible, choose gear that's common between the shops you go to. For example, use either a pioneer or alpine head unit and amp, the amp at a moderate wattage rating. Most everybody carries these brands, and playing at the same wattage is going to remove a variable. Set any EQ settings to flat, remove any boosts, turn off the loudness setting, turn off subs, turn off anything but the pair of speakers you are listening to, do everything in your power to get rid of any variables or anything that could be modifying the sound.

Before deciding, I'd recommend talking to Mr. Marv. I know we plug him a lot, but really it's because he's a great guy that can help work within your budget and provide alternatives. If he doesn't have the price, he has no problems telling you where else to find a deal. If all you want to do is talk, he can just do that too. I know that his baffles are superb craftsmanship, and many people here are more than pleased with the functionality.


To the OP, sorry if we are hijacking, but I think this was still relevant to your interests so I'm running with it

 

Not a bad option, they do make it simple, and prices are not TOO bad. You are paying for convenience. As long as you don't mind doing that.

 

Hey he asked for advice and i gave my $.02. Hence the IN MY HONEST OPINION. I feel like it is really a waste of money to buy aftermarket speakers that do nothing. If you don't agree with it then sorry but no need to call it ignorant.

Anything you install inpropperly is going to be poor quality. I can also buy a $2000 coil over kit and make it ride like hell. It just don't find merit in saying you can always make a great product perform poorly.

 

I think it was worth saying, I felt the same way about your originial phrasing. It's like saying, "I can't sit on anything less than imported Italian leather, and think less of people who would accept less." I know you probably meant well, but again, lost in translation.

My point is that good sound comes from a combination of good gear and correct installation. It is a commonly overlooked practice to overlook the installation steps, and people will incorrectly question the product's merit. I just wanted to make sure this was accentuated. For instance, MB Quart speakers demand an amplified signal to sound better than a lower-cost, unamplified competitor such as an Alpine (once amplying both, my opinion is that the MB Quart clearly wins). Being sensitive to the install effects the components you should buy.


Edited to reflect dgerm's gentlemanly conduct. Where else but TW do we get such great members?

 

no need for me to write the same thing as you did. for clarifacation. the phrase "anything less than" is SO subjective in car audio. like Chickenmunga said, i can take a pair of reference coaxials from wal mart, get creative with the install, and run them off the factory hu and make them sound crap ton better then a 1000 dollar pair of 200wrms focals that are being pushed by a 22wrms hu.

 

ya sorry about that i was a little cranky after being thoroughly raped by 3 exams in a row. Sorry about the snapping I just tossed my two cents in and felt like I got ripped apart for trying to help him avoid my mistakes. I believe if you are going to do something, do it right. I already screwed myself over by getting a set of speakers from a mass electronics producer that performed below my expectations. I was trying to give him my honest opinion that get quality products so he doesn't waste money and regret it later

 

Ok let me write a more well thought out post.

With what you have provided, I would recommend getting a good set of component speakers. The factory tweeter is a bit of a pain to get out if you don't like or are arent too familiar with wiring jumpers. So I recommend getting either the Pioneer TS-C720 PRS or the Alpine SPX-17PRO components. They are extremely good quality that are cristal clear and it will only get better if you ever add an amplifyer to them. The component speakers allow the tweeter to be firing at your ears instead of at your knees, as they were designed to do. For now I would not even worry about the rear until you amplify, and even if you replace them, there is no real need to amplify them. Your most drastic change will come from some quality front speakers.

 

dgerm, components come with tweeters, right? But you say the stock tweeters are a pain to get to and wiring is a bitch.

Are you recommending a new location for the tweeters or going through the pita process of replacing the stockers?


As GoBlue said, I may not realize the benefit of proper imaging and am not entirely sure I will go with comps. Most recommend component speakers and if the installation is not too difficult, the cost is not much different.

 

yes components come with a woofer speaker, a separate tweeter and a crossover (piece of hardware that sends the correct frequencies to the correct components. just so you know all speakers will come with tweeters, but the 3 way speakers have the tweeter mounted with the woofer.

 

I was trying to analyze this statement...

Wasn't sure if you were providing a solution to the pain-in-the-ass-to-remove tweeters or if you are saying to remove them and replace with one supplied in a component system.

 

Oh ok. I just was thinking that personally I want to utilize the tweeter mounts already installted. I guess either way the factory tweeter has to be removed. If you put 3 way speakers in, then it is a solution to the factory tweeter issue.

 

i don't remember having any difficulty removing the factory tweeters, i believe they are held in with 2 10mm bolts and that's it.



as far as imaging and the use of a component set and a coaxial woofer with a built in tweeter(s) goes, what you will notice between the two is much clearer highs with the components. if you install your component tweeters in the factory location, imho, that would be good enough imaging. but keep in mind, all anyone can offer you is opinions as far as how things sound, which one sounds better ect. ect.

 

When removing the speaker, mounting isn't so much the issue as is the wiring. More details here. It's doable, but Toyota made things harder than they needed to be, hence the grumbles.
If you plan on going with an amp, just disconnect and secure the factory wiring (to prevent rattles), then run new speaker wire back to the amp.

Quoting Marv again, the factory tweeter isn't so much a tweeter - it's more of a small midrange speaker, which is why the treble isn't so crisp. An aftermarket tweeter is smaller in size, which will need a baffle as well.

I didn't mean to talk too heavily on imaging, I just wanted to make sure I was passing on the correct lingo so new folks could understand concepts as they asked more questions.
You can definitely get crazy here, but I'm only using the factory locations as well. The reason I want to keep people away from the coaxials is because I used to have a car where the front speakers were installed by my feet. All the treble went straight to my calf, so it sounded like the band was sitting in my backseat - annoying to say the least.