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RFRM Bussman Fuse Box & Relays - SPOD? HA!

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Old 07-01-2014, 11:29 AM   #1
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Arrow RFRM Bussman Fuse Box & Relays - SPOD? HA!

My 1.0 for now. ->









Copied from here and adding info.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...4-spod-ha.html

Thanks to SpeedRye from FJCruiser Forums for a detailed build on the 10 Position one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedRye
Final product:



I needed something with at least 8 relays and sPODs are way too expensive in my opinion, especially to buy two of them. I'm not opposed to doing some of the wiring myself. Solution? A Cooper Bussmann RFRM fuse/relay block with room for 10 relays and 40 fuses. It's got two bus bars, so I'll probably do one always hot and the other on-with-ignition. The good news is that this is much more water proof than the sPODs, uses the same mini fuses as the rest of the truck and is much cheaper as well. I shouldn't outgrow this thing anytime soon! I'll update this thread as I build this thing up more.













Relays (ISO 280 Micro relays):

Single Pole, Normally Open (SPNO) - http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...-3011ASR112VDC

Single Pole, Double Throw (SPDT) - http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...1-1C-S-R1-12VD

Fuses (ATM Mini Blade fuses):

Available everywhere from auto parts stores to Walmart - http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-NO-43...rds=mini+fuses


Connectors & Terminals(Delphi Packard 280 Series):

Terminals come from the Delphi Packard 280 Series Metri-Pack line. They come in male and female and each is dependent on the wiring gauge that you're using. The cavity plugs are the same way and come in different colors per wire gauge. The colors are hard to find corresponding wire gauges for, but I believe this is correct:

12 gauge = Blue
14-16 gauge = Gray
16-18 gauge = Green
18-20 gauge = Tan
20-22 gauge = Purple
22-24 gauge = Red

Install is simple. You slide a cavity plug on the wire you're connecting. Crimp the male or female terminal to the wire. I soldered mine after this as an added precaution. Slide the terminal in to the connector or housing until it clicks in place. Slide the cavity plug along the wire until it's plugging the cavity at the back of the housing or connector. Done. Repeat as needed.

Female terminals plug in to the rear of the main fuse box housing. Male and female terminals are used on male and female connectors. Order as needed.

Many of the connectors, plugs and terminals need to be bought in multiples since that's how supply houses sell them. You're likely to end up with some extras. Being that these items are small, the shipping isn't too bad, but most supply houses do charge a handling fee to pick out 10 of item X, 20 of item Y, 50 of item Z, etc.

So far, I've purchased all of my items from Waytek, but there are other places. Here are a few links for sales and references:
http://www.whiteproducts.com/sealed280.shtml
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1...80-Series&pg=1
http://delphi.com/connectors/assets/...ure/met280.pdf


Crimpers:

If you want to get all fancy and spend some extra money: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o03_s00_i00


Misc. Notes:

As you can see in my later posts, I'm using some connectors to make removal and rewiring easier if needed in the future. I already had a bunch or wire around the garage, so you might need to purchase some wire for your project. The more colors, the better. You can use each color of wire to represent something. For my lighting, I'm using red for 12v+ to battery, black for 12v- to ground, blue for 12v+ signal from switch and white for 12v+ to lights. You get the idea.

The Bussmann box that I'm using has two main bus bars and I've decided that I won't need 40 circuits for power, so I'm choosing to use one bar for power and the other for ground. Each bar connects to 20 of the fuses. Because of this and the fact that I can't find mini fuse jumpers, I'm just going to use matching fuses on power and ground sides, so my wiring will end up ground in two places.

I'm choosing to run 4 gauge power wire and ground to the fuse box since I had some around. There will be an in-line fuse at the battery. There will also be a high amperage relay in-line (aka battery isolator) so that my fuse box only has power when the ignition switch is turned to accessory. I got a great deal on the PAC 200 isolator from Chris on the forum here, so I'll use it and see how it does. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...C-PAC-200.html It's probably overkill, but that shouldn't be a problem.

I'm not 100% sure how I'll mount the fuse box yet, but it'll be near the stock one, up high. There's an enormous amount of space between the stock fuse box, brake master cylinder and the hood, so it'll end up in there somehow.


More info as posted by Soonenough in post #129 :


METRI-PACK SEALED 280 CONNECTOR PART NUMBERS
These are all the OEM Delphi part numbers for the various Metri-Pack Sealed 280 connectors, terminals, cable seals, etc. I have listed the P/Ns and quantities you would need to order to make a complete mated connector (male and female halves); the only other thing you need is wire and a crimping tool. Each vendor will likely have their own P/Ns for these parts, but you should always be able to reference the Delphi P/N. Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for this list being correct. This is simply information I've found online. If you find an error on this list, post it or PM me and I'll make the corrections.

Notes:
1. Temp Rating: -40C - 125C (-40F - 257F)
2. Current Rating: 30A (this is the total rating for the entire connector, NOT per wire)
3. The 1-wire and 2-wire connectors use the same TPA Lock (the part that snaps onto the back of the connector body to hold the wires / terminals / cable seals in place inside the connector body), whereas the 3-, 4-, and 5-wire connectors have two different TPAs - one for the male connector, and one for the female connector
4. The wire gauges listed for the cable seals are not absolutes. Different wires have different insulation thicknesses, so a wire seal nominally for 16-ga might work well on 14-ga with thin insulation, or 18-ga with thick insulation. It's up to the installer to ensure the cable seal has enough 'squeeze' onto the insulation OD of the wire.


1-WIRE CONNECTOR
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Male - Delphi P/N 12065171
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Female - Delphi P/N 12065172
(qty 2) TPA Lock - Delphi P/N 12065249
(qty 1) Terminal, Male - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 1) Terminal, Female - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 2) Cable Seal - choose from list below based on wire gauge


2-WIRE CONNECTOR
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Male - Delphi P/N 15300002
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Female - Delphi P/N 15300027
(qty 2) TPA Lock - Delphi P/N 15300014
(qty 2) Terminal, Male - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 2) Terminal, Female - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 4) Cable Seal - choose from list below based on wire gauge


3-WIRE CONNECTOR
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Male - Delphi P/N 15300003
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Female - Delphi P/N 12040977
(qty 1) TPA Lock, Male - Delphi P/N 15300015
(qty 1) TPA Lock, Female - Delphi P/N 12034145
(qty 3) Terminal, Male - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 3) Terminal, Female - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 6) Cable Seal - choose from list below based on wire gauge


4-WIRE CONNECTOR
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Male - Delphi P/N 12129600
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Female - Delphi P/N 12129565
(qty 1) TPA Lock, Male - Delphi P/N 15324063
(qty 1) TPA Lock, Female - Delphi P/N 15300016
(qty 4) Terminal, Male - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 4) Terminal, Female - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 8) Cable Seal - choose from list below based on wire gauge


5-WIRE CONNECTOR
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Male - Delphi P/N 12186400
(qty 1) Connector Assy, Female - Delphi P/N 12084891
(qty 1) TPA Lock, Male - Delphi P/N 12084673
(qty 1) TPA Lock, Female - Delphi P/N 15324857
(qty 5) Terminal, Male - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 5) Terminal, Female - choose from list below based on wire gauge
(qty 10) Cable Seal - choose from list below based on wire gauge


TERMINALS (tanged, not tangless)
Male 10-12 ga. - Delphi P/N 12048254
Male 12-14 ga. - Delphi P/N 12129497
Male 16-18 ga. - Delphi P/N 12048159
Male 20-22 ga. - Delphi P/N 12124977
Female 10-12 ga. - Delphi P/N 12077413
Female 12-14 ga. - Delphi P/N 12129493
Female 16-18 ga. - Delphi P/N 12077411
Female 20-22 ga. - Delphi P/N 12084201


CABLE SEALS / CAVITY PLUGS (note: Delphi has old and new P/Ns for some of these parts; old P/N is listed first [12xxxxxx] followed by new P/N [15xxxxxx] )
12 ga. - Delphi P/N 12015193 / 15324981 (blue color, for insulation OD 3.45-4.30mm)
14-16 ga. - Delphi P/N 12010293 / 15324980 (gray color, for insulation OD 2.81-3.49mm)
18-20 ga. - Delphi P/N 12015323 / 15324982 (green color, for insulation OD 2.03-2.85mm)
20-22 ga. - Delphi P/N 12015899 / 15324983 (red color, for insulation OD 1.29-1.70mm)
Cavity Plug - Delphi P/N 12010300 (green color)

20-24 ga. - Delphi P/N 12089679 (purple color, for insulation OD 1.60-2.15mm) *not commonly used
18-20 ga. - Delphi P/N 12041351 (tan color, for insulation OD 2.03-2.42mm) *not commonly used; covers same range as green seal, no reason to use this


TERMINAL REMOVAL TOOL
Delphi P/N 12094429 (green handle)
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:32 AM   #2
skygear [OP] skygear is offline
          
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Might do something like this then



Oh and look what showed up today

Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:59 AM   #3
Mechanically Goofy
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Hole e chit that's alot of aux possibilities..lol
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:19 PM   #4
skygear [OP] skygear is offline
          
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I was reading the specs on the small box.
5 - position http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...5300_rtmr.html
vs
10 - position
http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...laymodule.html

It handles 80amp per bus for a total of 160amps?
vs the
10 position/ 100amps per bus for a total of 200amps.

so in comparison, yes, 2 smaller ones would handle 320amps. <- More than I would ever need.

The 10 position will not even be close to maxed out with my power needs and plans.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:33 PM   #5
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Some that was in my build thread

Quote:
I went from this on the wiring,


To this so far


Thanks. Finishing the mapping of my switches and future components. Planned that is.

So far I'm here.

40" bar - relay - 20 amp fuse - spst switch
20" bar - relay - 10 amp fuse - spst switch
20" bar - relay - 10 amp fuse - spst switch
6" bar x2 - relay - 5 amp fuse - spdt switch
OBA Compressor 1 - relay - 25 amp fuse\
-------------------------------------------------------------------> spst switch
OBA Compressor 2 - relay - 25 amp fuse/
CB - 5 amp fuse - spst switch
Hood light - 5 amp fuse - prop switched
Topper lights - 30 amp fuse - prop switch
Power Inverter - 5 amp fuse - spst switch
Rock lights - 10 amp fuse - spst switch
Camera's - 10 amp fuse - spst switch
Winch controller in cab - 5 amp fuse - spst switch
OBW pump - relay - 25 amp fuse
? OBW pump recirculation ? - relay - 25 amp fuse?
28" bar - relay - 15 amp fuse
Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
Wiring all the constant power together, ground together, and Switch illumination together. For the switches.

One harness containing all the individual switched leads(18 gauge), power(14 gauge), and ground (14 gauge)
Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
Working on the sealed connector/ bulkhead connector options now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragons Taco View Post
Striping wire with a sharpie can be a huge pain in the ass. I met a tech who said there was a tool for it. I thought about it and took a block of wood, drilled it to pass the wire through, and a half inch intersecting hole to hold the sharpie centered. Do This! It will make a real pro looking stripe and keep your fingers clean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
Already made my block - made it the other day when I made one for cutting the fenders. Jig saws are awesome. Made short work of the project.

I have a bunch of the short sharpies. That way I can lock them in the hole and shoot the block down the line without it falling out. Am able to let the line dry before handling it that way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRunner View Post
Or just go to home depot, they have multi color electrical wire 4 gage to 20 gage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
Different locations have different items. I checked there
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragons Taco View Post
Not a bit surprised you already had a handle on that!
Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post


Dual mode. Can do 2 markers/ stripes at the same time if I want
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragons Taco View Post
Okay, now you are just showing off!
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC10TRDSPORT View Post
Really enjoying learning this stuff. Have no need for that many electrical bits in my truck but watching you layout the wiring for it makes me want to!

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by soonenough View Post
VERY interested in this...I just ordered by Bussmann RFRM today from CCI, and the only looming issue I see is bringing the wiring into the cab. I like the idea of using a few multi-conductor cables instead of a bundle of individual wires, that way you can just use a hole/grommet through the firewall with some silicone onto the cable jacket, rather than needing a bulkhead connector. But then you don't have the ability to disconnect everything at the firewall; I'm not sure why this would be necessary, but it seems like a good option to have just in case. The biggest issue to me with the bulkhead connector is finding a big enough place to put it on the firewall that has access from both sides.

EDIT: just found this - http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=761
30-wire bulkhead connector (24 are Metri-Pack 280, the other 6 are Metri-Pack 480)...again, biggest issue will be finding a place on the firewall to cut a hole the size of a deck of cards.

That's great. Um, I already cut into my firewall for the other wires. Theres plenty of room here, doesn't interfere with anything on the opposite side of the firewall, and of you are on your back/ crouched outside the truck, you can access it from the inside.



Alternately, could go to the opposite side and be Ok. Then it becomes an issue of the length of cable you run.



Lastly on the bulkhead issue with our vehicles. I believe the firewall is '2 ply' with a void in between . So the connector would have to be long enough to hit both sides.

Not apposed to a cylindrical connector that was able to be disconnected from inside the engine bay.

also looked for a multi-conductor wire. Just was unsure of my electrical needs at the moment of purchase. Even now, I'm contemplating on additional things. Some do not need to be wired into a harness. Just straight to the box. The way I planned on this now. I could just use a 'spudger' and tap into the braided loom, adding infinitely to it. Vs maxing out my multi-conductor wire. Later down the line when I finally say done. I could see me ordering 15' to play with.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:44 PM   #7
skygear [OP] skygear is offline
          
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I'm always looking for cleaner ways to do things. Was waiting for Blue sea to get into the off road accessory market like this. Got tired of waiting. Then I got to see the blue sea fuse block with neg bus, spod, and an rfrm all at the same time. Made my mind up quickly. Really was surprised more people haven't mentioned them here before.

a search turned up only a couple hits on here.
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Old 07-01-2014, 05:11 PM   #8
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Found this link too on here.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st...-gen-taco.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by paranoid56 View Post
bussman fuse holder (late model 1st gen taco)
bolts up on the fender.
$25 shipped (bracket only, no fuse box)






Quote:
Originally Posted by PcBuilder14 View Post
What's the model number on the Bussmann fuse box? I want to make sure it's the same size as mine before I buy a mount.
Quote:
Originally Posted by paranoid56 View Post
this one was 15303-2
Quote:
Originally Posted by PcBuilder14 View Post
Do you think you could measure the length and width of you relay box? I couldn't find the dimensions online for our boxes to see if they're the same size before I buy one of these things... Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by paranoid56 View Post
4.1665 x 2.5
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbob View Post
I like that but my clutch master cylinder reservoir is next to the brake booster where the bracket mounts.

I've been thinking about mounting my Bussmann box next to my battery (engine side). Would you be able to cut something like this?

It would bolt to the shelf under the battery (the battery would sit on top of it) leaving the fuse box hanging off to the left of the battery.
Quote:
Originally Posted by paranoid56 View Post
yea i could do something like that. i would need some time to figure it out though. so i wouldnt be able to get to it for at least a week.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbob View Post
That would be great. I'm not in a hurry.

If you're going to be brainstorming and you have access to a brake (which it looks like you do), the bracket doesn't really need to go under the battery, it could be bent down 90 degrees and bolt to the side of the battery shelf instead. A single straight sheet like I drew is just the simplest way to mount it next to the battery, not necessarily the best.
Quote:
Originally Posted by paranoid56 View Post
yea that might be easier to do as hate removing teh battery as then i loose all my presets :lol:
Quote:
Originally Posted by PcBuilder14 View Post
Just need to paint and finish some wiring and I'll get it installed!



DSC_0020 by PcBuilder14, on Flickr
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbob View Post
If you're still interested in tackling a version that sits by the battery, I'm still here...

Still no rush, just letting you know I'm still interested if you decide to make it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by paranoid56 View Post
I am and crap, i totally forgot about it. sorry about that. let me take a look this weekend and see what i can come up with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbob View Post
No problem, that sounds great, thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PcBuilder14 View Post
It's getting there. Slowly buy surely! Haha

All that's left is measuring and cutting a power wire from the breaker to the battery. Then I just have to bolt and connect everything. Should be done tomorrow


Quote:
Originally Posted by paranoid56 View Post
so looking at that other mounting spot, not sure it would bolt up very well. i need to remove the battery to see if there is any mounting holes under it. will report back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbob View Post
Thanks for looking into it. I'm already planning on having to drill holes so that's not a problem for me. I've been looking at drilling into the battery shelf either from the top (under the battery) or into the side of the shelf facing the engine.
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Old 07-01-2014, 05:28 PM   #9
skygear [OP] skygear is offline
          
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Here is one where they modified the bottom for a 3rd bus/ negative bus.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hpvds View Post



Decided to build one after seeing mine? :-). Manage to get everything crimped and put together? I made a mod to mine and underneath added a negative bus. Instead of finding spots to grounds to the frame all over. Sometime I'll do a write up with some pics.
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:32 AM   #10
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:13 AM   #11
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some insight

Quote:
Originally Posted by hpvds View Post
I initially used epoxy, but the plastic of the RTMR did not like the epoxy and it fell off, I ended up drilling two holes through the base and bolting it in. It's a simple aluminum electrical box bus terminal block that I got at HD. Here's a pic of the bottom side
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:08 PM   #12
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skygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:11 PM   #13
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Large is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shed
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I'm digging this..
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:24 PM   #14
skygear [OP] skygear is offline
          
skygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:37 PM   #15
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tbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shedtbturner47 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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^genius
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:37 PM   #16
skygear [OP] skygear is offline
          
skygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Proof.

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Old 07-02-2014, 07:04 PM   #17
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I'm not really sure what any of that does but that's some pretty cool stuff I'll follow this thread and maybe I'll learn something.
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:12 PM   #18
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TXGnftr is a glorious beacon of lightTXGnftr is a glorious beacon of lightTXGnftr is a glorious beacon of lightTXGnftr is a glorious beacon of lightTXGnftr is a glorious beacon of light
 
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PAC 200 Isolator

Skygear,
Curious how you'd wire the isolator without a second batt, wanting 12v ignition? Only allowing power to fuse box when ignition is turned on...
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:52 PM   #19
skygear [OP] skygear is offline
          
skygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shedskygear is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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I have an additional 500amp Isolator I could drop in there for the install. Also i do have dual batteries. Currently using the Blue Sea ML-ACR (ML-ACR Automatic Charging Relay with Manual Control - 12V DC 500A) and could wire into that without a problem. Since they are all switched though. I was just going to leave it hooked to constant power so I could operate them with the truck off.

The way I would hook it into the ACR would be to just attach a second lug to the output side of the relay and attach the other end of the lug/wire to the positive side of the RFRM. That would still give me always on power but have it isolated from the main battery. <- In reality though. I am tapped into the second battery for the accessories as it is. SO this just isn't needed at this point. It already IS isolated.


For anyone that does want this as an ignition on/ off circuit. You just tap into the accessory wire from the ignition under the hood and wire up an 200amp-250amp relay (used this number since the maximum rating for the 10 position RFRM is only 200amps[100amps per bus x 2], you generally want a little higher than the highest rating.). then of course, a terminal/ lug off the battery to the relay, on the in side, and a second one on the out for the power source to the RFRM. <- I believe that this is the method that SpeedRye used.
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:02 PM   #20
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nfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shednfs257 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Sub! I need a cleaner way to wire all my stuff
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