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Dynamat Poll, yes or no? If so how much?

View Poll Results: Dynamat, do it or not?
Yes, do the entire truck, it's well worth the cost for your system and needs 79 23.30%
No way, your system will be fine for what you want out of it. 48 14.16%
You gotta do at least the doors, that will do you fine. 59 17.40%
Doors and wall behind the sub box are a must!!! 153 45.13%
Voters: 339. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-13-2013, 09:24 PM   #161
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Peel and seal is great. I have had it double layered in my truck since 2007 and no problems. No smell even in 115 degree heat.... Haters gonna hate.
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:27 PM   #162
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I need to stick some of this behind my doors when I replace the stock speakers. When I have the bass up my driver side door rattles unless I lean my knee up against it
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:33 PM   #163
SHHHH, this is interesting
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koco View Post
Wait...wrap an amp? Why? The amp has to get rid of heat.
... I was typing fast .. lol at this point I have no clue on what the hell i was saying at the time.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:33 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
bitches love peel n seal



just kidding........ no im not.
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:38 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtopgun515 View Post
When you guys say that you put this stuff inside the door cavity and door skin, I assume the skin is just the metal I see when I remove the cover how do you do the inside? I know there are holes big enough to get my hands in but I don't understand where the peel and seal or dynomat is going. Sorry I'm new to this but I plan on trying to install my own stereo in the near future so i'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row!
once you get the door panel off, remove the grey/silver metal piece that is bolted on with about 6 bolts, allows you to get behind the door skin. i just fed the strips of deadening i cut in the big hole and grabbed it through the speaker hole as to not let it get "stuck" as i was feeding it in the door.

once you get the panel off it will make sense when ya see it.
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:43 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3187 View Post
once you get the door panel off, remove the grey/silver metal piece that is bolted on with about 6 bolts, allows you to get behind the door skin. i just fed the strips of deadening i cut in the big hole and grabbed it through the speaker hole as to not let it get "stuck" as i was feeding it in the door.

once you get the panel off it will make sense when ya see it.
OK, thanks
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:31 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PcBuilder14 View Post
I need to stick some of this behind my doors when I replace the stock speakers. When I have the bass up my driver side door rattles unless I lean my knee up against it
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3187 View Post
once you get the door panel off, remove the grey/silver metal piece that is bolted on with about 6 bolts, allows you to get behind the door skin. i just fed the strips of deadening i cut in the big hole and grabbed it through the speaker hole as to not let it get "stuck" as i was feeding it in the door.

once you get the panel off it will make sense when ya see it.
One thing I would add is to not forget to bolt that metal piece back in when you're done. (it helps add mass to that thin door skin)

However, since leaning your knee up against the door stops the rattle, I'm wondering if it's the sheet metal that is your problem versus your door panel?
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:52 PM   #168
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Great discussion, but sometimes, I think we are talking different purposes

Hey all. I'm truly amazed at how long this discussion has been going! (and not in a bad way....discussion is always a good thing!)

I think the heart of the matter is that we (as a individuals in this group) have different purposes in mind.

Keeping in mind that my personal experience stems from my days of being a certified car audio installer and a heavy competitor in the 0-150 SQ+ bracket, here's my thoughts.

Dynamat and the equally effective (in my opinion) and cheaper Peel-n-Seal deals with one specific issue. Lessening transient vibrations. As a competitor, minimizing sheet metal (and body panel) vibrations allowed for greater sound pressure levels and also better sound quality. I went through great pains to kill/deaden anything that "buzzed". It went beyond just using Dynamat (and then Peel-n-Seal when I discovered it) to expanding spray foam and acoustic batting stuffed into every crevice I could reach to make sure that the horrific sonic environment of a car interior had the least impact possible on my music.

BUT....this does not necessarily satisfy the other members of this group who are attempting to lower the "noise floor" created by external sound. Here is where the RAAM....product people are correct. They are attempting to block out external noise through sonic-blocking.

While I don't think/agree that every layer is not replaceable by a cheaper product/method, some of the layers would be very difficult to replicate in a way that works as efficiently as some of the RAAM..... products.

So, to keep it short and in my blue-collar vocabulary, we're really talking 2 different things.....and while each has a positive impact on the goal of the other, they are still.....2 different things/goals. (XJBaylor already stated something similar in post 121)

If you're trying to minimize sonic vibration/resonant frequency/buzzing panels: use a "sound-deadening" material. If you're sold on Dynamat, use it. If you're sold on Peel-n-Seal, use it. If you're sold on RAAM(mat?), use it.

If you're trying to minimize your noise floor/make your interior as quiet as possible, use the RAAM product line or something similar.

And one final jab. Yes, Peel-n-Seal is "visco-elastic". Yes it does hold up to extremely high temperatures. No, it does not stink up the interior of a vehicle. Yes, it is considerably less expensive than "name brand" sound-deadening materials.
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:10 PM   #169
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my experience. used FATMAT off ebay, the 70 mil is very close to the thickness of Dynamat (100 mil) and im pretty sure its a quarter or fifth of the cost.... so i just tripple layered the roof, quadruple layered the back , did the two back doors and the area the sub sits on in the access cab.

i have two 12in L7's and one 10in polk audio sub in a box that fits inside my arm rest. running off close to 3500 watts (two amps, one 2500 and one i believe is 1000 rockford i never looked at it came with the truck)

Virtually no rattle any more. The only time you will get any rattle is from stuff inside your storage buckets on the doors. I lined the insides with fatmat and its cut pretty much all rattle.

My cost for the fatmat was i think 180 for 100 sq feet
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:11 PM   #170
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I used Be-quiet ultimate dampner and Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick in the doors and the back wall, after just doing the back wall there was a big difference in road noise from my goodyear MTR's.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:37 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnA View Post
Hey all. I'm truly amazed at how long this discussion has been going! (and not in a bad way....discussion is always a good thing!)

I think the heart of the matter is that we (as a individuals in this group) have different purposes in mind.

Keeping in mind that my personal experience stems from my days of being a certified car audio installer and a heavy competitor in the 0-150 SQ+ bracket, here's my thoughts.

Dynamat and the equally effective (in my opinion) and cheaper Peel-n-Seal deals with one specific issue. Lessening transient vibrations. As a competitor, minimizing sheet metal (and body panel) vibrations allowed for greater sound pressure levels and also better sound quality. I went through great pains to kill/deaden anything that "buzzed". It went beyond just using Dynamat (and then Peel-n-Seal when I discovered it) to expanding spray foam and acoustic batting stuffed into every crevice I could reach to make sure that the horrific sonic environment of a car interior had the least impact possible on my music.

BUT....this does not necessarily satisfy the other members of this group who are attempting to lower the "noise floor" created by external sound. Here is where the RAAM....product people are correct. They are attempting to block out external noise through sonic-blocking.

While I don't think/agree that every layer is not replaceable by a cheaper product/method, some of the layers would be very difficult to replicate in a way that works as efficiently as some of the RAAM..... products.

So, to keep it short and in my blue-collar vocabulary, we're really talking 2 different things.....and while each has a positive impact on the goal of the other, they are still.....2 different things/goals. (XJBaylor already stated something similar in post 121)

If you're trying to minimize sonic vibration/resonant frequency/buzzing panels: use a "sound-deadening" material. If you're sold on Dynamat, use it. If you're sold on Peel-n-Seal, use it. If you're sold on RAAM(mat?), use it.

If you're trying to minimize your noise floor/make your interior as quiet as possible, use the RAAM product line or something similar.

And one final jab. Yes, Peel-n-Seal is "visco-elastic". Yes it does hold up to extremely high temperatures. No, it does not stink up the interior of a vehicle. Yes, it is considerably less expensive than "name brand" sound-deadening materials.
well said sir
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:48 AM   #172
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fatmat. Works great and much cheaper
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:56 AM   #173
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Okay for real guys i installed some Gtmat, which is the cheapest of the cheap, and it did very well. Excellent adhesion but easy enough to come off if you mess up. I mean come on guys anything is an improvement over nothing. Anyways, i put it everywhere, including inside the doors. And for $100 buying 100sq feet of it and having some left over it was definitively well worth the money.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:18 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacomatrdod View Post
Okay for real guys i installed some Gtmat, which is the cheapest of the cheap, and it did very well. Excellent adhesion but easy enough to come off if you mess up. I mean come on guys anything is an improvement over nothing. Anyways, i put it everywhere, including inside the doors. And for $100 buying 100sq feet of it and having some left over it was definitively well worth the money.
Good to hear. Anyone else try GMAT? Seems like thousands of good reviews on eBay.
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Old 04-19-2013, 11:25 AM   #175
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Ebay reviews you say.....
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:24 PM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aw9d View Post
Ebay reviews you say.....

People who purchased GTMat leave positive feedback...that's really what I meant. Seems like with the volume they sell, if it was junk, there would be alot of negative comments. Hoping to find something that works, but isn't as much as dynamat.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:54 PM   #177
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Yes to sound deadening...totally worth it:


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Old 04-22-2013, 10:56 AM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacomatrdod View Post
Okay for real guys i installed some Gtmat, which is the cheapest of the cheap, and it did very well. Excellent adhesion but easy enough to come off if you mess up. I mean come on guys anything is an improvement over nothing. Anyways, i put it everywhere, including inside the doors. And for $100 buying 100sq feet of it and having some left over it was definitively well worth the money.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanno33 View Post
Good to hear. Anyone else try GMAT? Seems like thousands of good reviews on eBay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aw9d View Post
Ebay reviews you say.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanno33 View Post
People who purchased GTMat leave positive feedback...that's really what I meant. Seems like with the volume they sell, if it was junk, there would be alot of negative comments. Hoping to find something that works, but isn't as much as dynamat.
I dislike judging; so if this GTMat fits your needs at a reduced price, I say more power to you.

But (of course there's always a "but") the description of "excellent adhesion but easy enough to come off if you mess up" causes me to question it's ability/effectiveness at providing mass to minimize vibrations? After all, the material you want to "stick" to your sheet metal should be as (permanently) sticky as possible to adhere every square millimeter of thin sheet metal together to create a single solid mass?
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:06 AM   #179
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I'm sticking (no pun intended) to my guns here when I say that Peel and Seal, while cheap and makes SOME difference, isn't the best way to go. Not by a long shot.

I'm currently in the process of deadening my new RX7 so I dove back into the deadening game again. I'm really enjoying working with the Ensolyte material that RAAM audio sells. It's peel and stick foam. The time savings is fantastic. You can basically line every panel contact point with the stuff to eliminate rattles.

PS: Can we hit a new page already so we can leave the ugly hookers behind?
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:44 AM   #180
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The contact cement stuff I had to use for my foam made the truck smell like solvents for about 6 weeks. I had to use lots of the stuff becasue I did 1/8" foam, mass loaded vinyl, 1/8" foam sandwich panels to totoally isolate the MLV from both the metal fdoor and the plastic panel. Peel and stick would have been a godsend, especially on the roof.
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