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Dynamat Poll, yes or no? If so how much?

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Armyballer, Apr 14, 2009.

?

Dynamat, do it or not?

  1. Yes, do the entire truck, it's well worth the cost for your system and needs

    85 vote(s)
    23.7%
  2. No way, your system will be fine for what you want out of it.

    48 vote(s)
    13.4%
  3. You gotta do at least the doors, that will do you fine.

    62 vote(s)
    17.3%
  4. Doors and wall behind the sub box are a must!!!

    163 vote(s)
    45.5%
  1. Apr 14, 2009 at 10:20 AM
    #1
    Armyballer

    Armyballer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, I'm l starting my complete system install soon and wanted to get the feel for what all you "pros" have to say on the topic.

    Grand Total for my system is gonna run me about $1400, that includes HU, 2x6.5 Components in the front and 2x6.5 Coaxels in the back. Stage II will be an amp and sub/box.

    I'm not looking to win competitions with this system.

    I've done some price checking and even talked to a stereo installer yesterday and here is what I'm finding.

    1. It's expensive, esp if you do the entire truck, firewall, doors, floor and rear bed wall. For what it's gonna cost, do I really need to do it? Am I really gonna notice it that much? With what I'm putting in my truck now, is it gonna take it from a Decent sounding system to crap if I don't? When i asked the "installer" about it he told me that unless I planned on trying to win competitions he wouldn't do anything more than maybe the doors. He told me it can be very tricky to install, very difficult to do unless you used heat and even then if you weren’t experienced in doing it, it could become a major disaster.

    So...what do you think?
     
  2. Apr 14, 2009 at 10:44 AM
    #2
    sooner07

    sooner07 1/2 man 1/2 amazing

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    First off; your installer isn't experienced with newer products or is just trying to get your to pay him to do it.

    Secondly, unless you want to pay too much, use something other than dynamat.
     
  3. Apr 14, 2009 at 10:49 AM
    #3
    Armyballer

    Armyballer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What other something other than dynamat? Fatmat?
     
  4. Apr 14, 2009 at 10:50 AM
    #4
    FlawedXJ

    FlawedXJ mall crawlin', web wheelin', concrete cowboy

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    I actually have a jeep now. Imagine that.
    google it. There are several other options. raammatt is probably best bang for the buck.
     
  5. Apr 14, 2009 at 10:58 AM
    #5
    trtripoli

    trtripoli lower management

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    Eclipse AVN6620 JL 500/1 amp JL 13TW5 sub JL 300/4 JL XR-650CSi Mr Marv Box Blu tooth XM radio Back Up camera, RAAMmat and Ensolite everywhere but ceiling
    RAAMmat, TW users get discounts. I'm installing a bunch of it in my truck this weekend.
     
  6. Apr 14, 2009 at 10:59 AM
    #6
    Anathollo

    Anathollo www.saveadane.org

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    Try fatmat. Same thing as dynomat. Hell of a lot cheaper.
     
  7. Apr 14, 2009 at 11:34 AM
    #7
    Armyballer

    Armyballer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    $1.00 per sq foot. Better than nothing?


    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]eDead 45 Specifications [/FONT]​
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]eDead Type[/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]eDead v.2 Mat[/FONT]​
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Product Thickness[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]40-45 mils[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Heat Tolerance [/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Industrial[/FONT]​
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Core Layer [/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Butyl[/FONT]​
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]LiteWrap Backing[/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Yes[/FONT]​
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Self Adhesive[/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Yes[/FONT]​
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Heat Gun Required[/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]​
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Application Temperature [/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]50+ DF[/FONT]​
    [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Multiple Layer Capable[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Yes[/FONT]
     
  8. Apr 14, 2009 at 11:36 AM
    #8
    Hotdog

    Hotdog My hair is all natural Moderator

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    how much did you order and how much did it cost?

    Also, make sure to take lots of pics.
     
  9. Apr 14, 2009 at 11:38 AM
    #9
    LonghornTaco

    LonghornTaco Can you pass the bailout please?

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    3" ToyTec coilover lift on Bilstein 5100s, Total Chaos UCAs, ToyTec diff drop, Scangauge II, 4D MagLite mounted on the drivers seat, Painted engine cover, Painted calipers (red), Painted skid plate (red) Valentine 1 radar detector hard wired, Damplifier Pro on the floor, back wall and doors, Luxury Liner Pro on the floor and doors, Kenwood DNX8120, 2 Pioneer TS-SW1041D 10" shallow mount subs, 2 Pioneer PRS-D4200F 1200W amps, Mr Marv sub enclosure, Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5" components in the front doors, Alpine 5.25" coaxials in the rear doors, A.R.E. LSII fiberglass tonneau cover, All Pro bumper, All Pro sliders, Wet Okole seat covers, Sockmonkey Mountain badges, PIAA 510 SMR Driving Lights, Warn M8000 Winch, Bud Built skids
    I used Second Skin. Used Damplifier Pro (dampening material) and Luxury Liner Pro (deadening material). I did the back wall, floor and all four doors and have enough left over to do the roof and I spent around $700 (including shipping) for all of it. Did it myself. Took about 20 hours, but the damplifier is peel-n-stick. The luxury liner needs spray adhesive for vertical surfaces, but no heat gun was needed.

    All the reviews I read said that, for what you pay, Second Skin's products are better and cheaper than Dynamat.

    I haven't used RAAMMat, but I've heard good things. Their sound barrier material isn't as thick as the Luxury Liner, but I think their dampening material is pretty good.
     
  10. Apr 14, 2009 at 11:39 AM
    #10
    sooner07

    sooner07 1/2 man 1/2 amazing

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    Toytec ultimate lift kit, light racing UCAs, ARB bumper and full skid plates underneath. Looking into redoing the suspension and maybe repainting the ol' Taco.
    I'm pro raammat. Very good product and a great price and Rick is a hell of a guy. Very similar to Marv, IMO.
     
  11. Apr 14, 2009 at 11:57 AM
    #11
    Armyballer

    Armyballer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I can't afford this route. I'm looking at MAYBE 200.00 total.
     
  12. Apr 14, 2009 at 12:00 PM
    #12
    LonghornTaco

    LonghornTaco Can you pass the bailout please?

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    3" ToyTec coilover lift on Bilstein 5100s, Total Chaos UCAs, ToyTec diff drop, Scangauge II, 4D MagLite mounted on the drivers seat, Painted engine cover, Painted calipers (red), Painted skid plate (red) Valentine 1 radar detector hard wired, Damplifier Pro on the floor, back wall and doors, Luxury Liner Pro on the floor and doors, Kenwood DNX8120, 2 Pioneer TS-SW1041D 10" shallow mount subs, 2 Pioneer PRS-D4200F 1200W amps, Mr Marv sub enclosure, Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5" components in the front doors, Alpine 5.25" coaxials in the rear doors, A.R.E. LSII fiberglass tonneau cover, All Pro bumper, All Pro sliders, Wet Okole seat covers, Sockmonkey Mountain badges, PIAA 510 SMR Driving Lights, Warn M8000 Winch, Bud Built skids
    You're not going to do the whole inside of your truck using Dynamat for $200.... You might get the back wall and a couple of doors...

    RAAMMat is definitely a more budget-friendly product. And I know Marv recommends it. So, if Marv recommends it, you oughta know it's good! :)
     
  13. Apr 14, 2009 at 12:02 PM
    #13
    trtripoli

    trtripoli lower management

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    Eclipse AVN6620 JL 500/1 amp JL 13TW5 sub JL 300/4 JL XR-650CSi Mr Marv Box Blu tooth XM radio Back Up camera, RAAMmat and Ensolite everywhere but ceiling
    I ordered 1 roll (15" x 50') RAAMmat
    4 yards ensolite
    2 cans spray adhesive

    cost was about ~$167 (including shipping)

    I've got a feeling I should have ordered another roll of the RAAMmat. But I won't finish the complete install right now becuase I don't have my rear speakers purchased for my system and I don't want to have to take off the rear door panel too many times.

    What I'm doing this weekend is cleaning up all the wiring from head unit and amps. Securing the rack/sub box inplace. I hope to do the rear wall, 2 front doors and floor with what RAAMmat and ensolite with what I currently have. Then finish the rear doors and ceiling in a month or two.

    I'll try to track down a camera so I can take pictures.
     
  14. Apr 14, 2009 at 1:11 PM
    #14
    GoBlueFan

    GoBlueFan Well-Known Member

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    Step bars, billet grill with custom TOYOTA, MB Quart RSI 216 components, Hifonics ZXi 4410, RAAMmat deadened doors/back wall/roof covered with ensolite , 24" Magnaflow muffler, hand polished stock exhaust tip, tinted, OEM TRD Bilstiens all around with 1/4" spacers up front to level it out. Sport wheels added.
    I plan on going the RAAMmat in the near future. For the price, and the coverage you get for that money is very good. I simply plan on doing a single layer over the entire cab. Not going to go too crazy with it.


    FWIW...ANY sound deadening you do is beneficial. The difference in a totally deadened cab vs a stock one is huge. It only takes shutting the door to notice it. But like I said, any deadening you do will help. The more the better IMO though...

    Its something you can add to as time/money become available. Do the doors first, then the floor/firewall, then back wall, then roof. .02
     
  15. Apr 14, 2009 at 1:46 PM
    #15
    Hotdog

    Hotdog My hair is all natural Moderator

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    Bossier City!

    A good friend of mine grew up there. That is awesome. How old are you?
     
  16. Apr 14, 2009 at 1:47 PM
    #16
    rossk35

    rossk35 Do Work Son!

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    I used Raamat which is a great product and very easy to use. Your truck will be noticeable quieter.
     
  17. Apr 14, 2009 at 7:00 PM
    #17
    GoBlueFan

    GoBlueFan Well-Known Member

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    40, but I am military. Been here since 2000
     
  18. Apr 14, 2009 at 7:26 PM
    #18
    stevomac59

    stevomac59 Is mod CraZy...

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    edit: nvm
     
  19. Apr 15, 2009 at 8:29 AM
    #19
    Hotdog

    Hotdog My hair is all natural Moderator

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    OK. I think he was long gone by 2000.
     
  20. Apr 15, 2009 at 8:30 AM
    #20
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga Nuggety

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    All the normal TW BS
    I talked with Marv on this one. He said that installing sound deadening is vehicle-dependent on what you need to do. For our vehicles, he advised, it is fine to do the doors, then do the back wall with whatever is left over. He said that doing the floor and roof is pretty much for show only, and you really aren't going to get back what you paid to do those portions. With the back wall, he advised that the sound deadener can only do so much because 1/2 of the wall is the glass, which causes the majority of the problem - and there's nothing you can do with that!

    Another big thing he warned me about was the thickness of the material in relation to the rest of the material fitting behind the seats. The box he made for me is very snug, and adding sound deadener may make it impossible to install the box again.


    I need to get started on this as well, but it's been raining every day and I no longer have a garage since I moved in March. I need a friend with a garage :(
     

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