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#1 |
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Senior Member
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PPI A600.2 under drivers seat? 06 Taco DC
This is my first post to the site, and I would appreciate any input on under-seat amp installation, and whether Its okay to cap the under-seat air vents or not.
Here is some background... I am compiling my components, and preparing for installation of my sound system. I havent purchased the HU yet, will save that for last, but it will probably be the AVIC Z-2. I already have the Scosche Double din dash kit, and have had it carbon fiber dipped to match the factory carbon fiber interior of the X-SP package. The enclosure, amp rack, and speaker baffles are all coming from Mr Marv. I will be running an ARC 10 sub. The front stage will consist of DLS Iridium 6.3 components, the mid bass in the front doors and the mid & tweets in Q-logic kick panels. The front stage will be powered by 2-channels of the Macintosh MCCC444 (110 X4). I still need to pick-up some 6.5" coaxials for rear fill later (looking at CDT's and Morels). They will run off the other 2 channels of the Mcintosh. I have the 2 channels available, and dont want anything powered by the head unit (past experience) Mr Marvs amp rack will provide room for the monster size Mcintosh amp and my Coustic XM-6 crossover. After bouncing it off of Marv, I think I am going to cut his amp rack Long-ways (maybe 4" from the bottom) and install a pre-fab hinge that should allow me easily access the rear of the amp rack. By doing this I hope to install the pasive crossovers, Distribution blocks etc.. and still have access as needed for tuning, tweaking, or whatever. When the carpet is installed, the hinge will be completely hidden. This leaves me installing the sub amp (PPI A600.2) under a seat in my 06 Double Cab. While doing some investigation, I found the plastic air vents under both seats. To properly install the amp, I believe it will be necessary to remove the plastic air duct under the drivers seat, and possibly cap it off with sheet metal. I live in south Florida, so 99% of the time I ASSUME cool air would be expelled from this vent, which would only help to cool the amp. But do sometimes get stuck doing winter road trips, and with the heat on it would have the opposite effect! I purchased extra factory fog-light switches, and will be using them for my amp remotes, so I guess I could kill the amp whenever the heat is on, but I'd rather just cap the vent hole properly, allowing me to secure the amp better and not worry about problems down the road... I should have all the remaining system components within a month, and then will remove the entire interior (including head-liner) to do some major sound deadening. I will run the power wire, RCA's, and Speaker wire at that time. Whatever I'm doing with this air duct will happen then. Sorry for the long post and the introduction/question combo...lol Seriously, this my first install in a Toyota Double Cab, and any help with this issue would be appreciated. Thanks, Craig |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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No one has an amp installed under the seat of a Double Cab, or removed or covered the plastic foot vent during sound deadening installation???
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#3 |
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Moderator; TW Moderator
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I know some one does, but I can't remember who. I was thinking about putting one under the seat, but it is going to be a while. Besides - I only have an Access Cab.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
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Thanks for the reply Mark. Someone on another site responded, and as I expected the plastic vent piece can be removed, and capped if necessary without causing damage to the vehicle.
I guess if I posted ANOTHER thread like, "What speakers should I get?", I would have probably recieved fifty replies over the weekend... Oh well, problem solved. Best of luck with your Access Cab. |
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#5 |
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Moderator; TW Moderator
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Yeah, I have to admit - the title threw me for a loop at first.
![]() Let us know how it goes. I would love to see a DIY write up on capping those vents (even the access cab has them).
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