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INSTALL: Steering Wheel Interface 2006 Taco 4d 4wd JBL ( SWI-JACK )

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Old 05-19-2009, 01:25 AM   #21
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Guy...
that's a weird issue...
Keep playing around, try to pgm backwards.

However...
Bottom line is that you shouldn't have to. make sure you double check the pgm instructions to ensure your process is right. Experiment, because you can pretty easily re-pgm. i did that many times to see if I could get trk up / down ( which I couldn't on the jvc deck).

It's hard for me to fully troubleshoot, because I actually had no problems. Not sure if it's a user error, or wiring, bad luck ?? After I figured out WTF I was doing to pgm, it went completely as expected. One knee-jerk thought is that you wired something backwards ? I don't know if this is a feasible scenario though, maybe you swapped the whites or something ?? Like I said, you shouldn't have to get tricky, so *something is up*.. . as usual, double check double check wiring, and instructions ! ( then learn and teach )

It sure sounds like you're close, thanks for the feedback on the thread. i was happy to post this after my own install and hrs of searching for similar.

Cuz



Quote:
Originally Posted by guy714 View Post
great write up made it more easier to install, only issue now is that i can't get the programming to work right,for some reason volume up is volume down, volume down is mute and so on. guess i gotta try again
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Old 05-19-2009, 01:41 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guy714 View Post
great write up made it more easier to install, only issue now is that i can't get the programming to work right,for some reason volume up is volume down, volume down is mute and so on. guess i gotta try again
i had that problem, make sure the its not plugged into your HU when programming (thats what PAC told me)and if your sure you programmed it correctly just fully reinstall your HU and it should work.
well thats how mine worked out
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:03 AM   #23
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Sometimes getting away from a problem for a while and approaching it with a clear mind works best.

Another option is to have someone help you, or at least watch you as the install/programing is done. Another set of eyes & ears may catch the problem.
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:56 AM   #24
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I did this for my AVIC-F700BT, and it works wonderfully! I did it before this write-up, but that is exactly how I did it. Great write-up!!!
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:02 AM   #25
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Hey, I just had a question about the install of the swi-jack on my 08 tacoma, with a JVC HU.

The manufacturer's website says to use a 560 ohm resister, but you are using a 150 ohm. Does it not work with a 560? or how did you know to use the 150?

I've tried both resisters and haven't been able to get my swi-jack programed. I get the version 8 thing working fine, but when I go to program it, the light stays on for about 5 seconds, and then stays off. Even when I hold down the volume up button on my steering wheel, then let go as per the instructions.

I know I have all the wiring correct, I doubled checked it multiple times, and reread the original post in this thread and also the manufacturer's website instructions.

Just got my tacoma about a week ago, and am a 1st time poster, thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:51 PM   #27
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I noticed you have the JBL system, and in one of the pictures theres that black box behind your head unit. Is that some sort of interface for use with the JBL amp?

I just recently did a SWI-PS with a Pioneer 710bt and was able to program it fine for track up and down. Maybe it was something to do with being JVC or what the other user mentioned about having it unplugged, for you.
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:56 PM   #28
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This has been a great resource. I used this numerous times as reference when installing my swijack. The most helpful thing was the wire color section. This made finding the right pin connection super easy.
Thanks for a great write-up!
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Old 03-31-2010, 06:00 PM   #29
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Hmm, the swijack says theres a answer call button. I have a kenwood dnx6960, is that programmable?
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:49 PM   #30
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I don't doubt the ability to program that functionality, but I've heard of some members not getting some other buttons to work, i think it was the seek they couldn't get to work.
So you could probably program it, but whether it will work or not will probably depend.

Sorry I couldn't give you a more definitive answer. I don't have a kenwood nor a swi-jack. I've got a pioneer and a swi-ps so it may be different.
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Old 05-23-2010, 10:25 AM   #31
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Question taken from http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...ml#post1782276

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Cecc View Post
I have a question about the list of programming options. Can all of these options be programmed with the same two buttons below the volume controls?

Track Up/ Seek Up
Track Down/ Seek Down
and
Preset Up/ Disc Up
Preset Down/ Disc Down

Also, can the Source and Band options both be programmed to the Mode button? Would these conflict or is there only one option available for each control button?
No, all of the options above can not be programmed to the same two buttons below the volume controls.
No, the source and band options can not both be programmed to the mode button.

Essentially you can only program one function to one button on the steering wheel. However, any button on the steering wheel can be programmed to any function. For example, the + button could be programmed for VOL UP, but the - could be programmed for SOURCE.
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Old 06-05-2010, 01:02 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acozzens View Post
DETAILED STEPS WITH PICS

STEPS 1-8 are done in the house, NO SOLDERING IRON IN THE DASH !
Before programming, here are the pictures step by step:

1. Stop the Insanity. Tape/Wire/Zip all the unused wires on your SWI.
You're only going to use red, black, white and either the stereo plug or blue wire wrapped around the stereo plug depending on your HU!
See left side bundled wires


2. cut 2 feet each of the following from your 22 gauge wire kit: ( you can always cut back later if you want, I didn't, I just bundled them later.! )
a. 1.5' - 2' red wire
b. 1.5' - 2' white wire 1
c. 1.5' - 2' white wire 2 ( will be cutting to solder resistor )
d. 1.5' - 2' black wire
In this pic, I forgot to show RED , make sure to include a strip of red.


3. Cut 1 of the white wires from step 2 at about the 66% mark eyballed. This is where you'll add the 150 ohm resistor ( confirm resistor based on your vehicle )


4. In safe area: Solder 1 end of the resistor to the 1 white wire you cut from step 3. Solder it "in line" like you're 'extending' the wire
The 150 Ohm resistor is BROWN GREEN BROWN Gold



5. Slide heat shrink tube down and over your solder. You'll solder the other end then slide the 3" or so tubing over both solder points where you will heat n shrink it. Buy shrink tube that easily, but barely slides over your 22 gauge wire. It will be easier to shrink.

6. Solder the other end of the wire you cut.


Here are the 2 whites ( 1 with the resistor ) and the black, don't forget red too.


Bring your shit out to your ride:





9. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY 1 minute ( Place where it ain't hittin the post, i use a small plastic unused junction box. )
10. Remove Glovebox 1 minute ( place in back seat for 4d )
11. Remove Head unit 3 minutes.. place with cables in tact space permiting on an old sweatshirt, or I've also used the glove box


12. Connect your extension cables at the glovebox to the SWI-JACK harness using crimp cap connectors 3 minutes ( you already bundled all the unused cables ! ) This connects your extensions you made in your house to the harness provided by SWI JACK so you can work very comfortably.
red to red
black to black
YES both custom white AND white+resistor go to white on the SWI JACK that's the "hard part" 3 white wires will be together! No sweat dude. Done here for now.


13. Run your custom extension cables FROM the glovebox TO the dash using your little hanger technique I highly recommend.. 1 minute. Just "snake it around the S". I aim for the what I consider the middle opening, it will come out just behind where your clock/hazard harness is
Bundled and wrapped on hanger for easy feed:


Coming out TO the dash FROM the glovebox on hanger thingy:


14. Back in the dash: Connect your custom extensions to factory wires:
If you are staring at the plug like you were going to plug it into your mouth with the clip on top from top left to right: 1,2,3,4,5 are empty... But 6,7,8 is what you want baby ! Colors listed below.

*At about halfway through the black extension wire you ran through your dash, cut your black wire. Using 1 of your 3 splice connectors, "tap into" PIN 6 of your factory steering wheel connector. using the second half you cut connect that to your head unit ground. So you've tapped into pin 6 and connected to ground.

*Using splice connector, connect white only to pin 7
*Using splice connector, connect white with resistor to pin 8
*Using crimp cap, connect red to factory HU Red.
*If JVC, plug in the stereo jack ( or your extension you bought ) to the SWI at the glovebox. male end into the HU. if not, wire blue/yellow to your head unit.

On my 2006 taco: there are only 3 wires going into the factory SWI harness:
Pin 6 = white red stripe ( connects via splice tap to your black )

*** I have received a few questions about pin 6 and ground... here is further clarification if you get confused **
You cut the black wire in half... 1/2 butt end goes into your tap splice to pin 6 the other end of that firs cut piece goes to HU ground bundle.
The other half of your cut black wire goes from HU ground bundle to the SWI-JACK Black... That's why you cut it in half ! Make sense ? It should once you get in there.
So, you'll technically adding 2 more wires to your HU black/ground bundle with the crimp cap connector.!

pin 7 = purple white ( connects via splice tap to WHITE ONLY of your white extension )
pin 8 = yellow black ( connects via splice tap to white with resistor which you placed electrical tape )


All 3 factory SWI harness wires tapped into and secured with electrical tape.

Plug in stereo jack ( in my JVC HU to the OEM STEERING WHEEL plug )


When you're cutting the electrical tape to secure your splice connections, make sure you absolutely cut the frick out of your ring finger with a brand new razor blade ! After getting blood on your interior, secure the wound with shop towel and more electrical tape.



17. You're done with the wiring. Pull most of the excess wire from your custom extension cables from dash to the glovebox and push your Head Unit back into the dash. temporarily / single screw secure the HU, but tuck the cables as if it was a success so all you have to do is screw the bolts and snap in the dashkit.

Nice n Clean. If you wired right, you're done in the dash


Reconnect your battery, Since you have so much room, with extension cables, bring the swi-jack to the console area and bring your tiny screwdriver.
turn on the deck and make sure a light comes on in your device.. if yes, then you "probably" wired things right and it's ready to program.

I'm not gonna go into detail on programming here. Post if you can't understand the programming but read the directions first !

A COUPLE TIPS FOR TO PROGRAMMING:
Toyota "VERSION NUMBER" is 8. early on you have to tell it you have a toyota by pushing the pgm button 8 times. ( SEE INSTRUCIONS )

Radio Select button is for ONLY 1 USE... While programming, it tells the device what kind of radio you have. THAT IS ALL THIS IS FOR. Mine is on 2, because i have JVC. ( SEE INSTRUCTIONS ) All you have to do is match to your radio mfg which is provided in their instructions or online. You can just set it to your mfg at ANY point in this process and never switch it again.

I programmed in order:
vol up
vol down
SEEK up
seek down ( not next track ! unavailable for JVC )
Source ( aka tuner->cd->dvd->ipod )

Even once you've done it right, there is a "slight delay" between you pressing the button and the HU reacting. I found no way around this, but I'm not bothered by it. It simply takes a little getting used to and is still better than no controls !

It takes several tries ! About 30 minutes for me to get it working as well as test some strange scenarios.
When you're doing it right. You will go fairly fast so you need to know exactly what you're going to pgm based on your HU mfg options.


OK. so lets say you got it programmed right ! nice job.
Here's how I mounted behind the glovebox.

Double sided sticky tape on SWI-JACK Unit:


Bundle Wires:


Sticky Box to side next to GloveBox closed positon ( plenty of space )


re-install glovebox.. Air shock on glove box can be tricky with large hands

Now how did you get two white wires. On the harness, there's only one white.
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Old 06-20-2010, 07:25 AM   #33
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m_yota,

The two white wires are to be added by the installer. Because the wires on the interface are so long, I cut away about 10 inches off the interface wire and then cut in half. There's your two extra white wires! Both added white wires will connect to the white wire on the interface (a one-into-two setup, make sense?) Steps as follows:
1. On one of the added white wires is where you connect the resistor in the middle, then connect to pin 8 of the factory connector.
2. The other added white wire will be connected to pin 7 of the factory connector.
3. Then you will connect the black wire from the interface to the HU's ground (black) wire.
4. Then you add another wire that will connect pin 6 on the factory connector to the same ground (black) wire in the previous step.
5. Last you will connect the red wire from the interface to the HU's red wire (switchable power).
NOTE: Do not hook up the 1.5mm jack/blue&yellow wire from the interface to the HU until after you have programmed it.
6. Once programming is complete, connect 1.5mm jack or blue/yellow wire (depending on HU).

That's it- you're done. Stuff that thing back inside and crank the volume (from the steering wheel of course!). PM me if you have any more questions. It's a little tricky to program, but a little perseverance will get it done. Good luck!

Shano

EDIT: I didn't solder the resistor in, as I didn't have a soldering gun. I used two butt-end connectors with the extra plastic cut away, heat shrinked it and it worked perfect.
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Old 06-20-2010, 07:31 AM   #34
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i did this as soon as i got my head unit christmas 09, and it wasnt as bad as i thought it was going to be
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:32 PM   #35
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The only button I can get to program is the Mode button... The volume and track buttons don't seem to be sending any signals. Anyone have any insight into what could be causing this? I have a Clarion HU and have it set properly and the vehicle code is properly set to 8. I got a voltmeter on the wires and they have a constant 6 volts that drops to zero when the mode button is pressed.
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amos View Post
The only button I can get to program is the Mode button... The volume and track buttons don't seem to be sending any signals. Anyone have any insight into what could be causing this? I have a Clarion HU and have it set properly and the vehicle code is properly set to 8. I got a voltmeter on the wires and they have a constant 6 volts that drops to zero when the mode button is pressed.

You didn't give much info, so I'll go default and say it is normally "human error". Here are my quick thoughts

1. obvious test--> this device has a "slight delay" when pressing the buttons. are you "pressing and holding" the volume +- ? a quick-press and release isn't the way, I guess due to some type of "signal delay" or a possible flux in the time continuum of the matrix blaupunkt.

Break it down to simple...
either something is wired wrong, or you may be programming it wrong... I've seen both since my original post on this topic.

Start with just 1 button. make it work, and "skip" the rest using the directions provided..

I literally practiced the programming, cause I would just slightly be wrong with each step. Plus, I was doing some testing ... start with just 1 button. Then reset, and do 2 buttons... test. wash-rinse-repeat.
If you've done this, then x2 check wiring, and settings from the manual to the swijack.

It's worth it. I use my steering wheel controls all the time.
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:42 AM   #37
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I will have to double check the wires when I get time, it has got to be a wiring issue because I can't program it if they aren't receiving a signal from the buttons. I just thought it was odd that only one button would work. When I press the other 4 to program the red light never goes off, even when I hold them for several seconds.

Does anyone know what the 3 wires in the harness are for that are in pins 6,7,8? Do they go to different buttons or do all button commands come across one wire from the wheel?
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Old 06-30-2010, 05:43 AM   #38
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I got it working last night. The problem was a bad connection in the purple/white wire (pin 7). So I guess that wire is the volume and track buttons and one of the other wires is the Mode button. The programming was quick and easy.

I mounted mine behind the change drawer on the right side of the steering wheel. It was easier to pop it out than the glove box in my opinion.

Thanks for the write up and the help!
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Old 07-03-2010, 05:26 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amos View Post
I got it working last night. The problem was a bad connection in the purple/white wire (pin 7). So I guess that wire is the volume and track buttons and one of the other wires is the Mode button. The programming was quick and easy.

I mounted mine behind the change drawer on the right side of the steering wheel. It was easier to pop it out than the glove box in my opinion.

Thanks for the write up and the help!
Well done Amos.
And helped validate the #1 troubleshoot rule.. "double check wiring"

nice work, hope you enjoy the fruits of your labor.
You are now swi-jack certified !
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Old 08-06-2010, 08:37 PM   #40
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OK so I just finished installing my new Pioneer AVIC X 910BT in my 2010 dc trd sport. It works great, but I cant get my SWI-PS to work. I DID NOT have the JBL system, so I used a 150 ohm resistor as that seemed to be what the instructions called for. When I tried programming the PAC SWI-PS it does not work right. I know I wired everything correctly, except for one possible thing, but I'd like a little advice before I tear everything out again.. Instead of tapping my red wire from the SWI to the red wire from the head unit, I tapped it to a yellow wire from the head unit because it said constant 12+ and I figured that was what I wanted. I forget exactly what the red wire said on it, but I'm pretty sure this may be my problem?

Can anyone confirm if that is all that I should have to do? cut the red wire where its tapped to the yellow, and tap the red to the red on the HU?
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