DETAILED STEPS WITH PICS
STEPS 1-8 are done in the house, NO SOLDERING IRON IN THE DASH !
Before programming, here are the pictures step by step:
1. Stop the Insanity.
Tape/Wire/Zip all the unused wires on your SWI.
You're only going to use red, black, white and either the stereo plug or blue wire wrapped around the stereo plug depending on your HU!
See left side bundled wires
2. cut 2 feet each of the following from your 22 gauge wire kit:
( you can always cut back later if you want, I didn't, I just bundled them later.! )
a. 1.5' - 2' red wire
b. 1.5' - 2' white wire 1
c. 1.5' - 2' white wire 2 ( will be cutting to solder resistor )
d. 1.5' - 2' black wire
In this pic, I forgot to show RED , make sure to include a strip of red.
3. Cut 1 of the white wires from step 2 at about the 66% mark eyballed. This is where you'll add the 150 ohm resistor ( confirm resistor based on your vehicle )
4. In safe area: Solder 1 end of the resistor to the 1 white wire you cut from step 3
. Solder it "in line" like you're 'extending' the wire
The 150 Ohm resistor is BROWN GREEN BROWN Gold
5. Slide heat shrink tube down and over your solder
. You'll solder the other end then slide the 3" or so tubing over both solder points where you will heat n shrink it. Buy shrink tube that easily, but barely slides over your 22 gauge wire. It will be easier to shrink.
6. Solder the other end of the wire you cut
Here are the 2 whites ( 1 with the resistor ) and the black, don't forget red too.
Bring your shit out to your ride:
9. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY 1 minute ( Place where it ain't hittin the post, i use a small plastic unused junction box. )
10. Remove Glovebox 1 minute ( place in back seat for 4d )
11. Remove Head unit 3 minutes.. place with cables in tact space permiting on an old sweatshirt, or I've also used the glove box
12. Connect your extension cables at the glovebox to the SWI-JACK harness using crimp cap connectors 3 minutes ( you already bundled all the unused cables ! ) This connects your extensions you made in your house to the harness provided by SWI JACK so you can work very comfortably.
red to red
13. Run your custom extension cables FROM the glovebox TO the dash using your little hanger technique I highly recommend.. 1 minute. Just "snake it around the S". I aim for the what I consider the middle opening, it will come out just behind where your clock/hazard harness is
black to black
YES both custom white AND white+resistor go to white on the SWI JACK that's the "hard part" 3 white wires will be together! No sweat dude. Done here for now.
Bundled and wrapped on hanger for easy feed:
Coming out TO the dash FROM the glovebox on hanger thingy:
14. Back in the dash: Connect your custom extensions to factory wires:
If you are staring at the plug like you were going to plug it into your mouth with the clip on top from top left to right: 1,2,3,4,5 are empty... But 6,7,8 is what you want baby ! Colors listed below.
*At about halfway through the black extension wire you ran through your dash, cut your black wire. Using 1 of your 3 splice connectors, "tap into" PIN 6 of your factory steering wheel connector. using the second half you cut connect that to your head unit ground. So you've tapped into pin 6 and connected to ground.
*Using splice connector, connect white only to pin 7
*Using splice connector, connect white with resistor to pin 8
*Using crimp cap, connect red to factory HU Red.
*If JVC, plug in the stereo jack ( or your extension you bought ) to the SWI at the glovebox. male end into the HU. if not, wire blue/yellow to your head unit.
On my 2006 taco: there are only 3 wires going into the factory SWI harness:
Pin 6 = white red stripe ( connects via splice tap to your black )
*** I have received a few questions about pin 6 and ground... here is further clarification if you get confused **
You cut the black wire in half... 1/2 butt end goes into your tap splice to pin 6 the other end of that firs cut piece goes to HU ground bundle.
The other half of your cut black wire goes from HU ground bundle to the SWI-JACK Black... That's why you cut it in half ! Make sense ? It should once you get in there.
So, you'll technically adding 2 more wires to your HU black/ground bundle with the crimp cap connector.!
pin 7 = purple white ( connects via splice tap to WHITE ONLY of your white extension )
pin 8 = yellow black ( connects via splice tap to white with resistor which you placed electrical tape )
All 3 factory SWI harness wires tapped into and secured with electrical tape.
Plug in stereo jack ( in my JVC HU to the OEM STEERING WHEEL plug )
When you're cutting the electrical tape to secure your splice connections, make sure you absolutely cut the frick out of your ring finger with a brand new razor blade ! After getting blood on your interior, secure the wound with shop towel and more electrical tape.
17. You're done with the wiring. Pull most of the excess wire from your custom extension cables from dash to the glovebox and push your Head Unit back into the dash. temporarily / single screw
secure the HU, but tuck the cables as if it was a success so all you have to do is screw the bolts and snap in the dashkit.
Nice n Clean. If you wired right, you're done in the dash
Reconnect your battery, Since you have so much room, with extension cables, bring the swi-jack to the console area and bring your tiny screwdriver.
turn on the deck and make sure a light comes on in your device.. if yes, then you "probably" wired things right and it's ready to program.
I'm not gonna go into detail on programming here. Post if you can't understand the programming but read the directions first !
A COUPLE TIPS FOR TO PROGRAMMING:
Toyota "VERSION NUMBER" is 8. early on you have to tell it you have a toyota by pushing the pgm button 8 times. ( SEE INSTRUCIONS )
Radio Select button is for ONLY 1 USE... While programming, it tells the device what kind of radio you have. THAT IS ALL THIS IS FOR. Mine is on 2, because i have JVC. ( SEE INSTRUCTIONS ) All you have to do is match to your radio mfg which is provided in their instructions or online. You can just set it to your mfg at ANY point in this process and never switch it again.
I programmed in order:
seek down ( not next track ! unavailable for JVC
Source ( aka tuner->cd->dvd->ipod )
Even once you've done it right, there is a "slight delay" between you pressing the button and the HU reacting. I found no way around this, but I'm not bothered by it. It simply takes a little getting used to and is still better than no controls !
It takes several tries ! About 30 minutes for me to get it working as well as test some strange scenarios.
When you're doing it right. You will go fairly fast so you need to know exactly what you're going to pgm based on your HU mfg options.
OK. so lets say you got it programmed right ! nice job.
Here's how I mounted behind the glovebox.
Double sided sticky tape on SWI-JACK Unit:
Sticky Box to side next to GloveBox closed positon ( plenty of space )
re-install glovebox.. Air shock on glove box can be tricky with large hands