Audison Bit One?

Hello,
I am contemplating on adding a signal processor to my system and setting my sight on the Audison. I wonder how to integrate it to my system and what improvement to expect.

My present system:
Alpine CDE 149BT HU with time alignment, x-over and equalization
JL Audio C5 separates up front
JL Audio C2 650x for rears
Alpine power pack
Alpine SWR T10 shallow sub
Alpine PDX M6 for amp
Audiocontrol epicenter
Dynamat all doors and rear cab panel

Godspeed.

 

My question is why
There honestly is no point with what you have already and with the items you have

 

If you ran high end mid amps, Ran it all active, then sure
If your wanting to spend money just to spend the money to say you have it, Then do it

 

^this

 

Manethon,
Thanks, as always your advice makes sense. I'll save the money for other mods. Taco 2011, thanks too. Godspeed.

 

I wouldn't underestimate what an Audison Bit processor can do for your system. IMO the JL speakers would be the first thing I would change if I were putting more money into that system, but if you're happy with them, then no need to change.

The Audison Bit One has a lot more to offer in terms of processing capabilities than your Alpine head unit is currently bringing to the table. For instance, you could bi amplify your front stage using the Bit One which opens up a much more effective means for independent driver time alignment and EQ. This makes a night and day difference, especially when trying to correct the imaging in a truck like ours. The real question is, are you able to tune it to utilize its capabilities effectively? To effectively tune a Bit One to be the cornerstone of an audio system requires professional skills and tools. You'll need to tune your gain structure with an oscilloscope or some other device that has clipping detection. You'll need to equalize your system with a real time analyzer to get the most out of the 32 band EQ.

If it were me, I would rather have a $2500 system with a Bit processor than an $8000 system without it. I've heard both versions of this example, and even owned both versions of this example, and I can say with confidence that the Bit One is the cornerstone of any audio system that it is present in.

 

Alpine CDE 149BT
-9 band equalizer
-no bandpass filters, only high pass on front and rear channels(20-200hz)
-3 sets(pairs) of 4V preouts

audison bit one
-31 band equalizer
-Full / Hi-Pass / Low Pass / Band Pass crossovers with 70 steps from 10hz to 20khz
-4 sets of 4v preouts

With all the basics laid out, the audison will have better resolution and flexibility than the alpine in terms of time alignment, eq, and control of your active crossovers. you could also eliminate your audiocontrol epicenter with the audison in place. Ideally you would want to eliminate, or not hook up your rear speakers to maximize your system and to keep things simple for tuning.

if you are looking to go the "next level", then I would consider going this route. upon first glance, I thought well, the audison will have lower hpf for the bandpass, but your alpine does not have a bandpass, so there's plus right there.

in the end, its your money/hobby. is there going to be a noticable improvement with the audison? potentially, if you can learn how to tune it properly. if you are content with what you have, stay with it.

manethon - what are examples of high end mid amps? I believe if the OP wouldn't be spending money just to spend it, if he learns to tune his equipment. there is an advantage to the audison over the alpine.

 

6Spd, there is really no point to discuss my opinion on this matter in this post.

I will say my view is based on:
His listed gear
His prior posts,
Also Chatting with the op Via pm.

All in all, Bit one is there for those that Need it or at that point in their hobby, career or lvl/ experience where they can benefit from having such tools at their disposal.
I have seen many and i mean many guys go active with processors that get lost and takes them 100s of hours to get it figured out and set up right. Lets just leave it at that.

AT the cost of a bit 10, id WAYYY rather he change his mid amp, mids and possible settle for a bit 10. It should offer him just enough feature to get what he wants done exactly so. Anything more gets lost in translation

 

OP, if you are looking for improvement in your sound system, here is what I would recommend with little changes to your existing equipment, and replacement items

-move your tweeters to your sail panels to broaden the stage
-get a 5 or 6 channel amp to power everything(replacing your existing amps. you will gain more space with this, but may have to upgrade your wiring)
-take your rear door speakers out of the equation(you can bridge channels 1/2 and 3/4 for the fronts)

seems like manethon has made your mind for you, but if you still think you have a need for more customization, look into a dsp unit(the above recommendations set you up for a logical step up to full active. with full active, you can eliminate the crossovers in your current component setup). audison is not the only manufacturer that makes a dsp. mind you, going full active is a deep black hole, so do a ton of reading before making the leap.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/ is a good place to start.

 

Gentlemen,
Thanks for the insights. I am reading a lot about sound processors and will consider in the future. Audison, Alpine PXA, Helix Pro, so manyDSPs, so little time. Godspeed.

 

Oh geez. I didn't notice that you said you're running an Alpine power pack. Replace that with a real amplifier immediately if you have some money in the budget for your stereo. That is the weakest link, by far, in your current setup.

And to aid in your research, I would completely remove Alpine from your list of potential audio processor units. I haven't heard of helix. With your current setup, the Bit Ten might make more sense for you than the bit one. It's also much more budget friendly. You don't need 8 channels of DSP. You can still bi-amplify your front stage with the Bit Ten and bypass it for the rear speakers if you end up going this route.

 

I'm with you on that shane.

 

Thanks Shane and Manethon. I will get an Alpine PDX V9 in the near future. Godspeed.

 

No need to go quite that route. I condone the idea of having a completely separate amplifier for your full range stages and your sub woofers. I would keep your PDX M6 and add a 4 channel amplifier for your fronts / rears (preferably only the fronts). I'd shop around for a class AB amplifier, as opposed to the Class D amplifiers like the PDX series. You'll find them more affordable in most cases, and the good ones (Hertz, Audison, and other specialty brands) will sound better than the class D amplifiers. The trade off is that they have a slightly larger footprint, but you've got some real estate to play around with since you have a double cab.

 

I agree with shane about having real amps behind your drivers, as noted in my previous post. once you have loud(and then some), only then should you look into dsp. well, maybe not loud, but once you have real, external power behind your drivers, then yes. that alpine power pack is a halfway point from a head unit to an amplifier in terms of power

 

Gentlemen, thank you very much. I'll hold on getting a dsp for now. Aside from Audison and Hertz, is there any class AB amp brand I can research on, preferably one I can source locally? Godspeed.

 

I know you said you'd like to source something locally, is there any specific or particular reason for this ? The MS 90.4 is one of the best under 1000$ SQ mid amps on the market, period. I can upload prob a whole stack load of SQ comp car pictures with them in use.

If i may :




The last picture is a world class SQ comp car ran by eddie dejesus- top IASCA Champion here in the USA. I am doing my hardest to get a lot of this product warehoused in the usa but its tough on capital

 

here are some notable amp manufacturers. while there are differences in class ab vs class d amps, dont get hard up on one or the other. they both do the same thing. class d is just more efficient. maybe if you are trying to squeeze out every ounce of performance, and your vehicle is setup for that, then maybe you have an argument for class ab, but for your sake, buy what you think suits your needs(which will probably the most value packed at a certain pricepoint). without further ado, here are some mainstream(i.e. safe bet) manufacturers

http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/amplifiers.html
http://www.arcaudio.com/c/amplifiers
http://soundstream.com/store/car-audio/amplifiers.html
http://precisionpower.com/store/products/amplifiers.html
http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-amplifiers


some reading regarding different classes of amps. take what you will from it.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion/168039-class-b-vs-class-d.html

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/94579-amp-choice.html

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-blind-tests-amplifiers-time-hear-myself.html

 

Once again gentlemen, thanks. I've got a lot of reading to do. Godspeed.