Final Crossover mounting, with driver side plastic back wall re-installed.

Hey,

Since I went with the single 10" and enclosure that fit behind the the passenger(66% side) I was able to re-install the back plastic wall.
This is the home for my crossovers. I think it looks better than the ensolite only look.. I cut 1 tic-tac box size hole for the cables, easily concealable if I want to un-do..

Just wanted to show interested parties another option for backwall finishing depending on what amp setup you choose to go with this may not be applicable.

One final note before pics is that I feel this changed my tuning, so I have to revisit that again. It decreased the quality, might have made it louder/distorted. Like it through things off balance a little..

Here is the slideshow link to photobucket.
http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/...co Crossover Final Mount/?albumview=slideshow

SCREWS:
The screws ( also get respective washers ) were able to go through my mounting board into that back cable run. Closely read this->
M6 - 1.00 x 40
Whatever that screw is, get 1 notch longer depending on the depth of your mounting board. I don't know metric screws, but find that model and get half inch longer it's perfect then, but too short at M6 - 1.00 x 40
It's not feasible to use a nut, just get the screws(2) and washer.


Here is a walkthrough of how I chose to do it..


How I had the temporary setup:


Time to Unscrew the mounting board, re-labeled my speaker wires ( I had some wrong last time ) and unscrewed everything:


Dry Run to make sure there were no hangups.
I also used this to locate all the spots where the black plastic clipped into the wall.. It makes impressions, then I go back and jam something in there to clear the ensolite.


Dry Run of mounting board making sure drilled screw holes are good.


Gave some Ensolite Love to the mounting board:


Gave Some Raamat Love to the black plastic wall...
Applied at logical places where it has gaps or potential vibrations. It's so close to the sub, and I had spare raamat. only single layer at select locations.


Cut a tic-tac-box sized hole for the speaker wire.
Obviously, I cut the hole right where the cables can enter the box from the hole on the back cable run.
To cut the hole, I drilled a fat hole, then used snips to cut the rectangle out, by bending and snipping till I got what I wanted !


Extra Raamat Love where the speaker wires will come through.. gives them a less violent entry to prevent wire scraping.


Pulled the cables through and placed box for final securing.
IMPORTANT-> At this time, I also screwed in the bottom bracket using the factory screw and washer. I gave everything a bang with my fist to ensure things "clicked" into place and thus eliminate any potential rattle. Screw it in now, because you can't once you place the board in there.


ReConnect the cables to the crossovers. Very fast since you labeled everything clearly..

***********NOW IS THE TIME TO DO A QUICK AUDIO TEST BEFORE YOU MOUNT !!!!! **********


It's a Wrap. Good Job.

 

if i were you and considering how small the amp is i would have elected to extend your box to the top like so many others did rather than wasting valuable airspace to mount the amp where you did. that box is already too small for a 10.
just because you can fit the sub in a box that small doesnt mean you should! you will get way better low bass responce if the box were larger.

if it were me i would stuff the xovers in the door panels and get rid of them all together, besides you can run less wire to the speakers anyway, you wouldnt have to cut any holes in anything.
if you really wanted some good sound i would have used the entire back wall side to side to get more airspace ran the 10 and a port right next to it. you need about 1.0 cu foot for a single 10. doing this would make that 10 sound more like a 12 and give you about 2x the bass output

 

Hey way to kill my buzz !.....

That's a lot to say without hearing this system. But something tells me not to debate with you because of your User Title. But knowledgeable or not, there's 1 thing you are missing.. What I wanted.

If it were me, one thing I would ask the original poster is what they are trying to achieve. Because if you owned the truck that's titled in my name it sounds like you'd be pissed off by not having the deepest and hardest hitting bass in 3 counties.

You might have ended up with 2 12" subs, a lift kit, purple racing stripes, and a 1.5 zillion-Jigawatt-quadrophonic blaupunkt.

I can tell you from sitting in my own truck that it hits and it sounds excellent. If someone wants MORE volume and MORE bass than what I'm rocking in my Taco, then we're not talking apples-apples here dude.
This is the key factor ! My last car, I had 2 12"s and they sounded great. I like 12's more than 10's, but I wanted something different in the taco.

However, your points are good for showing more alternatives. My goal was just to share my experience and photos with people. They can decide if they like it, or don't like the aesthetics.

crossovers in doors.. Yes would have been nice n clean, what are your thoughts then about moisture buildups in the door ? Also, running the extra wire back was not a big deal, there is space.

Huge sub box->
how do you feel about resecuring the child restraints back to stock ?
do you have to take out all the seats to get the box in and out ?

i think we just have different goals for our respective truck audio.

 

i mount the xovers behind the plastic door panel, not inside the door itself so there is no water in there. with many xovers you can loose the cover and make them a little smaller and on rare occasions i have mounted them in the doors but usually water is not an issue if you mount them just inside the metal and cover them with duct tape or dynamat.

as for the restraints, i have years ago had to secure a child seat and find the seatbelts work just fine. if it is a porblem you can always cut a hole through the box and install a 5" diameter peice of PVC to make a hole in the box for access to the tie down location but keep the box air tight.

yes after about 15 years of building bass boxes professionally in a previous life i am somewhat of a perfectionst. you dont have to have a lot of bass, but as a perfectionst it just eats at me when you can have so much more for so much less.
if your not looking for a lot of bass perhaps an 8" ported in the cabinet you have now might be an idea?
i wish you were closer to colorado. i would love to have you listen to my setup and see foryourself what is possible with a single 10. not just the loudness of it but the overal quality of sound is unlike anything i am sure you have ever heard in a car.

 

Hey BM..
good points..
I hear you, and you obviously have some experience !
The best way to shut me up would definitely be the real in-truck audio test ! It is too bad I don't live by more members who are doing these projects, but with your bass, I should be able to here Colorado from Seattle if you turn it up !! lol

I'd be very curious to see what you thought of my existing setup as well. I cannot imagine someone listening to my setup and saying it sounds bad.. Most people I hang with don't upgrade their car audio even 1/2 as much as I did. I definitley didn't go "ALL OUT" and I think that's the point you're seeing most. But this was intentional..

And for a DIY first time, i'm really happy with everything and proud I was able to do it myself.

later ,
AC

 

Biggest thing is if you are happy with it. I don't care if someone wants to build a wall of 4" flea market speakers and uses a 1000w pyramid amp that has a 10 amp fuse in it. If they like the sound then that is all that really matters to them.

What I think sounds like crap (the above) may be more than adequate for someone else to be happy, and so more power to them. It would be nice if i weren't as picky as I am, and a hell of a lot cheaper.

I say good job dude, looks like a good install.

 

Hey, i totally give you props for DIY especially first time! im not trying to knock ya, im just trying to give you my opinion. i am sure a personal listen to what can be done would give you a lot of ideas. hell i didnt know everything on my first install. but unfortunatly due to lack of experience or lack of knowledge it seems the common mistake in all of car audio is one i see made every time i see a sub install. its always in way too small of a box.
you pay 150 bucks for a sub and get 75 dollars worth of it.
its kinda like paying 4,000 for a supercharger and only getting a 10 HP gain when everyone else got 65HP
for some reason it doesnt seem to matter to as many people to get ripped off on their audio system.
i think because most the car audio shops that sell the equipment wouldnt know good sound if it fell out of the sky, landed on their face and started to wiggle!
audio is one of thoes mysteries because you cant see it. therefore sence you dont know what your missing you dont know it can be a lot better.
verses most anything else you buy you can see a difference or feel a difference.