Neeeeeed.....

a system in my 99 toyota tacoma extended cab (but would like to be able to still seat 4 people).

ANY SUGGESTIONS?????????

 

hit up crutchfield, search their site, put in your truck info they have good stuff

 

x2! Crutchfield is a very helpful site.

 

just dont buy form crutchfield. they are way over priced

 

hahaha those are very opossite opinions..

 

crutchfield has a huge variety of product. You can see what fits your truck and get ideas of what you want, then search for the best price

 

X2.

 

okay. makes sense. THANK YOU!

 

yeah the site is good for finding what fits in general. but a audio shop can always do way more than prefab stuff. prefabbed stuff never sounds good to me! and the prices on crutchfield are high.

 

I have the same dilemma for my 09 access cab but not worried so much about passengers as want to preserve the aisle for cargo and golf clubs. I installed a nice new h/u and I will be getting a shallow mount Pioneer 10" sub for which I am fabbing a low volume sealed wedge box to mount vertically between the jump seats. It shouldn't stick out more than an inch or so past the folded seats. Maybe not enough to satisfy the real bassheads but that's as far as I am gonna compromise on giving up my space. Might be a week or 2 but I'll post some pics and info when done.

 

alright. look forward to seeing it!

 

Here was one I did for a access cab tacoma, although I cannot remember the year. He did not want to lose any room either, and also wanted to keep the factory HU. I used a Soundgate LOC 4 and caught the signal AFTER the amp, but the factory amp must remain plugged up an powered or the volume on the factory HU WILL NOT WORK.

Used an Arc 300.4 and Image CX 64 components up front with the CX Mid Bass drivers in the rear doors. Put Second Skin Damplifier Pro on the insides of the doors for him as well to help stop resonance. In his truck the window track was very close to the speaker baffle, so there was very little room. If you build out, you get to close to the door panel. I solved this by using a longer bolt at the bottom of the track with a metal cylinder spacer to tighten it against between the track and the sheet metal. Gave me another inch or so of depth and did the trick well, WITHOUT causing the windows or power window motor to bind up.

Another option is to use a 6.5 sub in the rear doors, and sound deaden the crap out of them. It will not be head banging bass, but it will give you that low frequency reproduction you are looking for without sacrificing room. Lots of options, but this one is a easy way to go.

Rear Doors



Front doors



The bolt Im talking about is the only one below the speaker.

Really dont have any other pics of the install. Sorry. LOL.

 

Er...............that truck MAY have been a Tundra. Man, I cant remember.

If you have an extended cab, and not one with rear doors...then I would go shallow, or just get a nice 3 way setup for the front and be done with it. LOL

 

i have an extended cab with no rear doors, what do you mean by a 3 way setup?

 

A 3 way setup would require some custom installation, but what I mean by it is a 3 way component set. They normally consist of a pair of tweeters, mid ranges, and mid bass drivers. (so three speakers per door, or side) A really nice set could set you back a couple of thousand bucks, but Hertz makes a nice set that is around the 350-400 range. It will compensate for some sub bass, but not much. You would be very impressed by the sound, but maybe not enough to spend the cash. They would have to be amplified for sure. A pro installer could make them look factory, and you would lose very little space. A subwoofer of course makes a big difference in sound, and thats an upgrade you will probably still want, but I guess if I had a nice 3 way set up, I could go without a sub...for a very long time.

Just spouting opinions, sorry if Im not being very helpful. lol

 

if you have the access cab, you can get the subs that mount where the floor cargo covers mount.