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Old 11-04-2009, 05:35 AM   #21
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What does deadener do?

I put 4 aftermarket speakers in my doors with the stock head unit. The lows are not real clean...like they vibrate EVERYTHING. Would deadener clean that up? I would only do the doors.

It vibrates my door panels to the point where I sometimes do not allow my knee to rest against the door panel because it transfers the vibes into my bones.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:48 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veccster View Post
What does deadener do?

I put 4 aftermarket speakers in my doors with the stock head unit. The lows are not real clean...like they vibrate EVERYTHING. Would deadener clean that up? I would only do the doors.

It vibrates my door panels to the point where I sometimes do not allow my knee to rest against the door panel because it transfers the vibes into my bones.
Deadener kills the vibrations transferred through the vehicle so yes, it would certainly help your situation.
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:34 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalynStylion View Post
^I'd love to hear your setup one day man. Is there a DFW taco get together anytime soon? I'm starting to deaden tonight

We can meet up whenever, I can probably even help you out Friday night. What kind of setup you going with.......I started out with an Alpine 9883 and moved up to the AVIC-D3.

Not sure how many DFW guys are on this forum, the only other one I know of is Dallas05 or something like that......bought some stuff from him.
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:43 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veccster View Post
What does deadener do?

I put 4 aftermarket speakers in my doors with the stock head unit. The lows are not real clean...like they vibrate EVERYTHING. Would deadener clean that up? I would only do the doors.

It vibrates my door panels to the point where I sometimes do not allow my knee to rest against the door panel because it transfers the vibes into my bones.

The deadener helps with Rattles, Vibrations, Road Noise and increases your Car Audio's Sound.

I would suggest that you put some on the inside of all 4 doors (use both the sound deadener and teklite (closed cell Neoprene). This should help with the vibration issues.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:02 AM   #25
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OK, so how much Sq Ft is needed to cover a door? I have a double cab. If its a lot, I'll only do the front 2 but I have aftermarket speakers in all 4 doors. Do I just cover the area around the speaker?

Does this go ON TOP of the plastic that is already in there?

I can get 20 sq ft of Secondskin for $56. Is this enough for 4 doors?



Sorry for thread jacking and being a noob I thought the OP might also be interested in this info.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veccster View Post
OK, so how much Sq Ft is needed to cover a door? I have a double cab. If its a lot, I'll only do the front 2 but I have aftermarket speakers in all 4 doors. Do I just cover the area around the speaker?

Does this go ON TOP of the plastic that is already in there?

I can get 20 sq ft of Secondskin for $56. Is this enough for 4 doors?



Sorry for thread jacking and being a noob I thought the OP might also be interested in this info.

That sounds like more than enough for two doors.

1. Make sure your windows are rolled all the way up.
2. Take the door panels off - be careful with the electric switches (you don't want to brake the connection)
3. Take the clear plastic off (you can cut it with a razor blade and discard or you can try to carefully take it off and reapply to the black sticky stuff.....I just cut it with a blade and threw it away).
4. you will place the sticky side of deadener on the inside of the exterior door panel (one side of the deadener is silver and the other side has the sticky stuff) when you're done you should be able to look at the inside of your door and see the silver deadener. You'll need to make some measurements and cut several pieces to get all of the inside door. You can put an extra layer (cut out a square) in the area right behind the speaker. If you're using teklite, you would do the same process as the sound deadener.

Hope this helps. This stuff is very sticky, I recommend you do it early in the morning or late at night when it's cool.
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:38 PM   #27
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I see. Thank you for the information. I was never sure which part of the door to apply the deadoner to. So I guess I'll be reaching in through the various holes to apply this stuff.

You said you cut the plastic out...is it not important? Does it not need to be replaced? I actually had a problem with mine vibrating because of the bass. I cut some holes in it to act like bass ports. If its not needed, I'll cut it out. But we do get alot of rain around here.

Any pictures of a deadoned door?


EDIT....nevermind! Thanks to Evil Monkey, I found these:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/s.../11059/cat/500
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/d...m/RaamMat1.jpg

I'll just cover the holes with the aluminum flashing so I don't have to replace the plastic.

Is this necessary:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/s...ze/big/cat/500
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muy Grande View Post
That sounds like more than enough for two doors.

1. Make sure your windows are rolled all the way up.
2. Take the door panels off - be careful with the electric switches (you don't want to brake the connection)
3. Take the clear plastic off (you can cut it with a razor blade and discard or you can try to carefully take it off and reapply to the black sticky stuff.....I just cut it with a blade and threw it away).
4. you will place the sticky side of deadener on the inside of the exterior door panel (one side of the deadener is silver and the other side has the sticky stuff) when you're done you should be able to look at the inside of your door and see the silver deadener. You'll need to make some measurements and cut several pieces to get all of the inside door. You can put an extra layer (cut out a square) in the area right behind the speaker. If you're using teklite, you would do the same process as the sound deadener.

Hope this helps. This stuff is very sticky, I recommend you do it early in the morning or late at night when it's cool.

Do you also place the Dynomat on the door face behind the clip on door panel effectively making both inside faces of the door covered?
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:29 PM   #29
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All of these questions should be answered in my thread that I'll be starting tomorrow. I was able to get the day off from work so I'll have time to do some work on the truck.
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:06 PM   #30
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Here is a great write-up by RaamAudio:
http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?o...d=51&Itemid=56

Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalynStylion View Post
All of these questions should be answered in my thread that I'll be starting tomorrow. I was able to get the day off from work so I'll have time to do some work on the truck.
This assumes that you know whats best

J/K...I look forward to your write-up on this. Take lots of pictures!
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:23 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalynStylion View Post
All of these questions should be answered in my thread that I'll be starting tomorrow. I was able to get the day off from work so I'll have time to do some work on the truck.
Please put a link in this thread. I will probably start my stero install in 2 weeks. I have everything I need except the time.
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:44 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 95SLE View Post
I have everything I need except the time.
Time.....always the deal killer. I feel ya man.
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:06 PM   #33
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Look for a product called FATMAT on Ebay, used it in my Z-28. Worked well and lot cheaper. But I did it myself.

Mike
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:15 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT150 View Post
Look for a product called FATMAT on Ebay, used it in my Z-28. Worked well and lot cheaper. But I did it myself.

Mike
Actually, it's no cheaper than RaaMmat.

Fatmat: 50 sq.ft. = $90 w/ free shipping...............($1.80 /sq ft)
RaaMmat BXT: 62.5 sq.ft. = $100 + shipping..........($1.60 /sq ft)

I'm sure the quality is comparable.
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