MOD: Radio on after Ignition is turned off

[CtryBoyInMT]

[Version 1]

There is a really simple and easy way to allow your radio & clock to continue to operate with the vehicle turned off and the key removed from the ignition. This is similar in operation to GM vehicles. The radio will continue to operate for about 60 seconds or until the drivers door is opened. This mod utilizes the power window key-off delay circuit. This can be done on 95.5-01 Gen's also, but this is geared to the 2005+ gen.

Disclaimer: These notes are an account of what I did. I am sharing them in case someone is looking to do this too and can benefit from my install. This is not intended to be a definitive install guide. Do not attempt this if you are not comfortable doing basic wiring.
I do not accept responsibly for any damages incurred before, during or after this mod has been performed. This is my hold harmless clause in that I am not liable for any damages, hardships or personal physical or emotional trauma that directly or indirectly occurred, may occur or could be incurred as a result of reading, interpreting or mis-interpreting a mis-spelled, mis-used or mis-interpreted word in this document or any version hence forth regarding this document.

Parts needed:
6’ of 18 or 22ga wire. (1) 4’ piece and (4) 6” pieces)
1 SPST relay*
4 female spade terminals that fit your relay.
4 quick taps
1 (Optional) 1Amp inline fuse


1. Remove the radio from the dash. I can’t find the link with pictures this second, but I’m an inpatient person in general so you will need to find out how to do this yourself.
2. Remove the lower drivers kick panel.
3. Remove the cubby hole door and remove the pink 30A fuse. (Their so expensive to replace it’s just a wise thing to do!) Oh & make sure the vehicle is off!!
4. Cut (3) 6” lengths of wire and attach a female spade terminal to all 3. [Hint: If you are going to utilize the inline fuse, that will take the place of (1) 6” length, so you will need (2) more.]
5. Attach a female spade terminal to the remaining 4’ length of wire.

Now the Fun Stuff!

6. Locate the Blue w/Yellow [L-Y] wire from the connector that is closest to the driver’s side.
7. Locate the Grey [GR] wire that is just next to it (Toward the pax side.)
8. Locate the Brown [BR] 18ga wire a few more pins down toward the pax side of the connector. [Hint: there is a similar wire that is a 22ga (or smaller gauge wire than the 18ga. that is for the speakers) DO NOT USE THIS ONE!!!!]

These wires are the supply wire (GR), the memory (L-Y) wire and the ground (BR) wire. The memory is already protected with the 7.5A accessory fuse located behind the cubbyhole door. The Grey wire is protected by the 10A radio#1 fuse under the hood. Here is where the optional 1A fuse can be placed inline. If you prefer to skip this, proceed to step 10.

9. Quick tap the [L-Y] wire and install the 1A inline fuse holder. Attach a female spade terminal to the other side of the fuse holder. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, you just need to tap off it.] Proceed to Step 11.
10. Quick tap the [L-Y] wire and attach a 6” length of wire. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, just need to tap off it.]
11. Quick tap the [GR] wire and attach a 6” length of wire. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, just need to tap off it.]
12. Quick tap the [BR] wire and attach a 6” length of wire. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, just need to tap off it.]
13. Feed the non-terminal end of the 4’ length of wire behind the dash attaching it securely and out of the way as you run it over to the drivers kick panel.
14. [I will add a photo when I can get my camera working] I actually ended up taking the whole lower dash apart, found the wire as it entered the Main control box and traced it back to the kick panel, so telling you where it is by words is going to be difficult. Locate the power window main feed wire. This wire is a red 18ga wire that runs near the rear of the kick panel. It is bundled with the trailer brake harness connector, which also has the same size & color of wire. There is also a similar pink wire, when in unfavorable light looks red. The proper wire will exit the kick panel and travel to the driver’s door.
15. Quick tap the red wire and attach the 4’ length of wire. [Hint: Do not cut the wire, just need to tap off it.]

Behind the radio:
16. Attach the 4’ female spade terminal to the #85 or coil pole.
17. Attach the [BR] 6” jumper wire to the #86 or coil pole.
18. Attach the [L-Y] 6” jumper wire to the #30 or common pole.
19. Attach the [GR] 6” jumper wire to the #87 or N/O pole.

20. Test the system to insure proper operation and all connection are secure. See introduction as to normal system operation.
21. Reinstall the Kick panel, Radio and clean up area.


Conclusion: I did this mod the next day after I picked up my truck from the dealer with no ill effects.

* I initially used an old fog light relay to perform this and worked well in my 97 Tacoma for 135,000 miles and numerous cycles. I again initially used the same relay in my 08 but since where the relay was mounted the click annoyed the crap out of me. I then dug up an old circuit board with a 5amp, quiet relay and made my own board using this relay. I’m sure with little electrical know how and soldering skills, you can get pieces from Radio Shack and make your own board with a quieter relay. Or you can install the relay farther from the driver.

[lsocoee]

Thanks for the right up, but I thought you said this was a simple thing!

[CtryBoyInMT]

Originally Posted by lsocoee

Thanks for the right up, but I thought you said this was a simple thing!

It's no fog light anytime mod, but it's a cake walk compared to the Locker mod!!

IF anyone has trouble locating the power window wire, I'm going to try and explain some more. you will see a wire bundle running vertical that the tow harness is doubled back and taped to with white electrical tape. Besides the pink and the second red, I don't believe there is any more red wires. Atleast not of that gauge. It's stupidly easy to find once you locate it!!!

IF someone does this and can snap a picture of the wire, please post it. I wish I had a digital camera, but I have to upgrade this 486 computer first!!

[CtryBoyInMT]

Originally Posted by CtryBoyInMT

14. [I will add a photo when I can get my camera working] I actually ended up taking the whole lower dash apart, found the wire as it entered the Main control box and traced it back to the kick panel, so telling you where it is by words is going to be difficult. Locate the power window main feed wire. This wire is a red 18ga wire that runs near the rear of the kick panel. It is bundled with the trailer brake harness connector, which also has the same size & color of wire. There is also a similar pink wire, when in unfavorable light looks red. The proper wire will exit the kick panel and travel to the driver’s door.

Here is the photo I snapped now that I got my camera working. I hope this clarifies it for all you PM'ers.
You can see the tap and the trailer harness very clearly.

[jdubh]

I'm gonna give this a try. Funny thing I noticed yesterday when I had to remove my avic-z2 due to failure...the windows would go up and down with the key out. For some reason when I install the avic that feature goes away?? I was wondering if it had something to do with the unused plug on the factory radio that the taco wiring harness doesn't call for? I'll let you know how my install goes when i get the avic back.

[luk8272]

Nice write up, but I don't have the balls to try it. Plus I usually get out of my truck when I turn it off. Great job. You get rep.