My Deadening Project

Nice.

 

subscribed. wow nice,how hard is the headliner to take out??

 

The headliner is a bit of a task. You have to remove the dry cleaner hangers, oh shit bars, SRS badges, dome light, sun visors, overhead console, A B and C pillars to get it down. Then the wiring is stuck to the other side of it. It's not something that I'd do exclusively. It is kinda the "end" of the quest before you turn around and come home. It's as stripped as the car will likely get before you deaden the area and then start putting things back together.

I will say that it's a challenge to get out of any of the doors since it's so large. You will have to bend it a little to get it out the rear doors. Just try not to crease t.

 

Funny!

I was not trying to anger anyone. Just making a point. I installed stereo's through all 5-1/2 years it took me to get my Engineering degree. If you tell someone Dynamat, they know what your talking about. If you try to call it something else, they're like " uh... whats that?"

 

damn thats cool man, good job so far.

get over it dude, chill out.

 

Nice job and write up man.

You mounting the amp under your seat? I am doing the same thing in my 03. I am a little concerned about the heat duct blowing right on the amp. I am considering removing/masking off the end of it.

 

FU!

I did chill out. I laughed at the joke and had a nice response.

If you dont see that as chilling out you my friend r F-ing retarded!

 

hahaha, ok man now you can chill out

 

RAMZAK, way to take the joke. I was a bit concerned that you wouldn't see that I was just joking with you.

For that, I give you props.

 

Too much work for me, dude- I'll just turn up the stereo

 

I think you're missing half the point. Your speakers will never sound half as good as they COULD if you deadened and sealed your doors. Noise barriers are for one purpose; deadening and sealing are totally different. You can add around 6db in the lower FR of your speakers in many cases. My last set of 6.5's in my IS300 got very low and just pounded even without the subs. They wouldn't have sounded nearly that good without the proper door treatment.

 

Subscribed!! Great work, will follow this when i am ready to do mine..

 

No, no- I get it, and I definitely give you HUGE props for having the balls to rip out your entire interior! All I meant, is I wouldn't feel confortable pulling out all that stuff. I'd never get it all back in properly!

 

Yeah I know what you mean. It was a big pain for sure. But I figured I'd do it all completely and do it right. That way it makes for much less work in the future. Now, when I get the rest of my system components I just connect a few wires, tune, and I'm done!

 

Amazingly detailed posts! Thanks for the great work! Keep it up!

 

ItalynStylion
Senior Member

Thaks for spending the time to Not only take pictures and give details about the install...!

This is really great work. I think that once you have a deadened vehicle...you can't go back...lol

I would like to do the same but as fas as running wires such as you did, I still am unsure where the amps are going to go, and what type sub I will be utilizing for that matter...

I am wondering if it would be also wise to enclose the speaker area's in some sort of a fiberglass or plastic manufactured box. In my M5, all the speakers came in long plastic box things to keep the speaker air-tight.

Is it worth the time?

 

Not sure if I missed this but, could you layout exactly how much material, what type, and if it's not too intrusive....cost?! I'm a few months away from a project like this and would like to have everything in place and budgeted.

I can't wait to know the results of the road test.

Dude, great job!!

 

Wow, nice work people! I say STICKY THIS!!

Now if I could just get the courage to pull my interior out?!

 

Check out RaamAudio, I ordered all my sound deading stuff from him and installed it. did everything but the floor, but floor was already taken care of when i sprayed undercoating with noise suppressor on the underside of my truck. I got enough material to do the 4 doors, roof, back walls plus the ensolite, and the spray glue all for 230.00. the prices ususally goes up or down depending on your shipping. It was right at 230 including the shipping. Rick was an awesome guy, and hes been in the business for along time. Here is his website.

http://www.raamaudio.com

His stuff is just as good as dynomat, but alot cheaper, and hes in comptition as well. He built his tacoma audio system using his stuff.

Even Mr. Marv recommends him big time. do a search on Raam Audio, and you will find alot of post about him.