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Old 11-08-2009, 08:46 PM   #2
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subscribed. wow nice,how hard is the headliner to take out??
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:47 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsenekos View Post
subscribed. wow nice,how hard is the headliner to take out??
The headliner is a bit of a task. You have to remove the dry cleaner hangers, oh shit bars, SRS badges, dome light, sun visors, overhead console, A B and C pillars to get it down. Then the wiring is stuck to the other side of it. It's not something that I'd do exclusively. It is kinda the "end" of the quest before you turn around and come home. It's as stripped as the car will likely get before you deaden the area and then start putting things back together.

I will say that it's a challenge to get out of any of the doors since it's so large. You will have to bend it a little to get it out the rear doors. Just try not to crease t.
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sooner07 View Post
Do you need a RAMZAK or a douche bag? I kid I kid.
Funny!

I was not trying to anger anyone. Just making a point. I installed stereo's through all 5-1/2 years it took me to get my Engineering degree. If you tell someone Dynamat, they know what your talking about. If you try to call it something else, they're like " uh... whats that?"
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:03 PM   #5
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damn thats cool man, good job so far.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RAMZAK View Post
Funny!

I was not trying to anger anyone. Just making a point. I installed stereo's through all 5-1/2 years it took me to get my Engineering degree. If you tell someone Dynamat, they know what your talking about. If you try to call it something else, they're like " uh... whats that?"
get over it dude, chill out.
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:59 PM   #6
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Nice job and write up man.

You mounting the amp under your seat? I am doing the same thing in my 03. I am a little concerned about the heat duct blowing right on the amp. I am considering removing/masking off the end of it.
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajohnson View Post
damn thats cool man, good job so far.




get over it dude, chill out.
FU!

I did chill out. I laughed at the joke and had a nice response.

If you dont see that as chilling out you my friend r F-ing retarded!
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:27 PM   #9
1/2 man 1/2 amazing
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RAMZAK, way to take the joke. I was a bit concerned that you wouldn't see that I was just joking with you.

For that, I give you props.
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Old 11-13-2009, 09:05 PM   #10
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Too much work for me, dude- I'll just turn up the stereo
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Old 11-13-2009, 09:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7Garage View Post
Too much work for me, dude- I'll just turn up the stereo
I think you're missing half the point. Your speakers will never sound half as good as they COULD if you deadened and sealed your doors. Noise barriers are for one purpose; deadening and sealing are totally different. You can add around 6db in the lower FR of your speakers in many cases. My last set of 6.5's in my IS300 got very low and just pounded even without the subs. They wouldn't have sounded nearly that good without the proper door treatment.
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Old 11-13-2009, 10:11 PM   #12
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Subscribed!! Great work, will follow this when i am ready to do mine..
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalynStylion View Post
I think you're missing half the point...

No, no- I get it, and I definitely give you HUGE props for having the balls to rip out your entire interior! All I meant, is I wouldn't feel confortable pulling out all that stuff. I'd never get it all back in properly!
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7Garage View Post
No, no- I get it, and I definitely give you HUGE props for having the balls to rip out your entire interior! All I meant, is I wouldn't feel confortable pulling out all that stuff. I'd never get it all back in properly!
Yeah I know what you mean. It was a big pain for sure. But I figured I'd do it all completely and do it right. That way it makes for much less work in the future. Now, when I get the rest of my system components I just connect a few wires, tune, and I'm done!
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Old 11-21-2009, 08:42 AM   #15
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Amazingly detailed posts! Thanks for the great work! Keep it up!
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:22 AM   #16
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ItalynStylion
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Thaks for spending the time to Not only take pictures and give details about the install...!

This is really great work. I think that once you have a deadened vehicle...you can't go back...lol

I would like to do the same but as fas as running wires such as you did, I still am unsure where the amps are going to go, and what type sub I will be utilizing for that matter...

I am wondering if it would be also wise to enclose the speaker area's in some sort of a fiberglass or plastic manufactured box. In my M5, all the speakers came in long plastic box things to keep the speaker air-tight.

Is it worth the time?
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Old 12-02-2009, 02:32 AM   #17
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Question Material layout and cost?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalynStylion View Post
I wouldn't worry about enclosing the door speakers. Most are designed to work well in vehicle doors anyways. However, there is a benefit to giving the speaker a bit of an enclosure to work with. This is why I sealed up my doors. Even the stock 6x9's work harder now with their environment optimized. I think that building a dedicated enclosure would be nearly impossible though considering the space constraints with the window tracks.

I'd suggest planning things out fairly well. Figure out what you want in terms of goals first. Then figure out which equipment pieces are your gold standard/non negotiables.

Just take your time; you'll be glad you did!
Not sure if I missed this but, could you layout exactly how much material, what type, and if it's not too intrusive....cost?! I'm a few months away from a project like this and would like to have everything in place and budgeted.

I can't wait to know the results of the road test.

Dude, great job!!
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:04 AM   #18
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Exclamation I say STICKY THIS!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocean's View Post
Heres the install guide and price from Don at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

Totals:
63 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
68.77 ft² MLV
80.1 ft² 1/4" CCF
7.67 ft² 1/8" CCF
16 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 1 side
1 8 oz can HH-66

As an order:
63 CLD Tiles @ 2.25 = $141.75
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope @ 8.75 = 8.75
1 67.5 ft² roll MLV @ 121.50 = 121.50
6 sheets 1/4" CCF @ 25.65 = 153.90
1 sheet 1/8" CCF @ 13.85 = 13.85
1 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides, 10-pack @ 13.00 = 13.00
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides @ 3.25 = 9.75
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 1 side @ 2.65 = 7.95
1 8 oz can HH-66 @ 8.50 = 8.50
1 2" Maple Roller N/C

Sub Total: $478.95

I'll need a city and zip to calculate shipping. My MLV supplier ships
roll quantities of MLV for me, so I won't be able to get their shipping
quote until tomorrow morning.

--
Don Sambrook

Sound Deadener Showdown, LLC
410.458.6418
don@sounddeadenershowdown.com
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com
Wow, nice work people! I say STICKY THIS!!

Now if I could just get the courage to pull my interior out?!
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:25 AM   #19
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wow!

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Old 12-02-2009, 07:33 AM   #20
I'd rather be diving than working..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocean's View Post
Heres the install guide and price from Don at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com



Sam,

I'm reluctant to cite percentages without proof, but the MLV and CCF
probably contribute something like 90% to making the truck quieter.
Vibration dampers like my CLD Tiles or Dynamat Xtreme control panel
resonance. Panel resonance destroys sound quality by reinforcing the
resonant frequency and harmonics if the RF of the vibrating part. It's
also an important mechanism for noise transmission through the vehicle.

Using a vibration damper alone is an option for an already quiet vehicle
with an aftermarket sound system that exceeds the OEM specs. For most of
us, using a vibration damper and barrier is the key to bringing noise
levels down and reducing vehicle induced distortion making the sound
system sound better and making the driving experience much more pleasant.

The floor is one of the least resonant areas of the vehicle. Between the
carpet and the seats, it's usually pretty solid. On the other hand, the
floor is the entry point for most of the problematic noise sources -
engine, exhaust and tire.

The roof is more a problem for resonance than airborne sound. It's a
huge area of sheet metal, right above your head. It can also be a
problem for air turbulence noise. Since there are very few noise sources
overhead, there's not much point to installing a barrier on the roof.
Vibration damper, definitely. It can also help to add a layer of 1/4"
CCF to deal with high frequency noise.

Lets' start with the doors.

Front Doors (each):
5 CLD Tiles, outer skin
2 CLD Tiles, cut into smaller pieces, each inner skin
Extruded Butyl Rope
6.14 ft² MLV
6.14 ft² 1/4" CCF
2.5 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides

Rear Doors (each):
4 CLD Tiles, outer skin
2 CLD Tiles, cut into smaller pieces, each inner skin
Extruded Butyl Rope
5.45 ft² MLV
5.45 ft² 1/4" CCF
2.5 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides

Start by pressing Extruded Butyl Rope (EBR) between the outer skin and
the side impact protection beams. Leave gaps every few inches to allow
water to drain. Cut some strips from a heavy plastic bag and press them
into the top surface of the EBR to protect it from dirt.

Apply half the CLD Tiles allocated to the outer skin above and half
below the side impact protection beam. Cut 2 more CLD Tiles into smaller
pieces and apply them to the inner door skin.

Hang MLV on the inner door skin using Velcro Patches with pressure
sensitive adhesive on both sides. The patches are 2"X4" but you can cut
them in half for this application (most applications really). Start with
2 pieces in the top corners to hold the MLV in place while you trim it
to fit. You want it to be as large as it can be - just barely fitting
inside the trim panel when it is replaced. You will need to cut some
holes in the MLV to allow cables, rods, shafts, wires, clips and the
speakers to come through. You want these holes to be as small as
possible. Every place we use MLV we are building a barrier and a barrier
needs to be as large and contiguous as possible.

It helps during the fitting process to periodically remove the MLV from
the door and lay it in the trim panel to test fit it. The Velcro makes
this easy. When you first hang the MLV on the door, cut holes where the
trim panel clips go into the door. You can then use these holes to
orient the MLV inside the trim panel.

When you are satisfied with the MLV fit, add two more Velcro Patch
pieces to the bottom corners. It's generally a good idea to add a third
piece on top for added strength. Finally, use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to tack
a layer of closed cell foam (CCF) on the side of the MLV facing the trim
panel. When the trim panel is reinstalled, the CCF will compress
slightly, getting rid of rattles and buzzes in the trim panel itself and
between the trim panel and the inner door skin.

Doors (totals):
26 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
23.18 ft² MLV
23.18 ft² 1/4" CCF
10 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides

Floor:

As I mentioned, the floor is the entry point for many of the most
objectionable noise sources we deal with.

22 CLD Tiles
37.92 ft² MLV
37.92 ft² 1/4" CCF

The floor is quite easy compared to the doors, except that you need to
remove the seats, the carpet and any trim that touches the carpet. Start
with CLD Tiles at 25% coverage. There's no good reason to apply CLD
Tiles on top of the stock deadener. In some cases the stock deadener is
loose and you can just pull it out. If it is in good shape, leave it in
place and apply the CLD Tiles to the bare metal areas. If you want to
remove the stock deadener anyway, you can often scrape it out with a
heat gun and a putty knife. A quicker option may be laying dry ice on
top of it for a few minutes and then hitting it with a rubber mallet.
With any luck the stock deadener will shatter and you can just pick up
the loose pieces and vacuum the residue.

Cut 1/4" CCF to fit the bottoms of the floor pans and up into the foot
wells and lay it in place. You really don't need any adhesive or other
attachment products for the floor. Gravity, the carpet and trim panels
will hold everything in place. Finally, lay MLV on top of the CCF,
extending up the center tunnel, sills and everywhere you can without
interfering with trim panel replacement. You will need to cut holes for
the seat bolt downs and seat belt anchors if they are on the floor.
Again, make these holes as small as possible. You are basically
upholstering the floor with MLV. MLV is quite flexible and will easily
follow a simple curve. Where it needs to be fitted to complex curves you
will need to do some cutting. Use HH-66 to seal the seams in the MLV as
you go.

Roof:
10 CLD Tiles
19 ft² 1/4" CCF
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 1 side

Apply the CLD Tiles to the pen areas of sheet metal. Cut the Velcro
Patches in half (2"X2") a and use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to bond the
non-adhesive side of the Velcro to the CCF. Peel off the release film
from the adhesive side of the Velcro and press into place.

Back Wall:
5 CLD Tiles
7.67 ft² MLV
7.67 ft² 1/8" CCF
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides

The back wall doesn't usually have enough space for 1/4" CCF. That's why
I specified 1/8". I've attached a PDF that demonstrates how to hang CCF
and MLV in the least space possible.

General Notes

HH-66 is a contact adhesive. You need to coat both surfaces and let them
dry until just tacky, 3-5 minutes. Press the two parts together. The
bond is more than strong enough to work with immediately. It will
achieve its full strength after a few hours.

When working with the self-adhesive side(s) the Velcro Patches press the
entire assembly into place. It is a good idea to gently separate the
hook and loop sides and press them down by themselves to make sure the
bond is complete.

Totals:
63 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
68.77 ft² MLV
80.1 ft² 1/4" CCF
7.67 ft² 1/8" CCF
16 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 1 side
1 8 oz can HH-66

As an order:
63 CLD Tiles @ 2.25 = $141.75
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope @ 8.75 = 8.75
1 67.5 ft² roll MLV @ 121.50 = 121.50
6 sheets 1/4" CCF @ 25.65 = 153.90
1 sheet 1/8" CCF @ 13.85 = 13.85
1 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides, 10-pack @ 13.00 = 13.00
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides @ 3.25 = 9.75
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 1 side @ 2.65 = 7.95
1 8 oz can HH-66 @ 8.50 = 8.50
1 2" Maple Roller N/C

Sub Total: $478.95

I'll need a city and zip to calculate shipping. My MLV supplier ships
roll quantities of MLV for me, so I won't be able to get their shipping
quote until tomorrow morning.

--
Don Sambrook

Sound Deadener Showdown, LLC
410.458.6418
don@sounddeadenershowdown.com
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

Check out RaamAudio, I ordered all my sound deading stuff from him and installed it. did everything but the floor, but floor was already taken care of when i sprayed undercoating with noise suppressor on the underside of my truck. I got enough material to do the 4 doors, roof, back walls plus the ensolite, and the spray glue all for 230.00. the prices ususally goes up or down depending on your shipping. It was right at 230 including the shipping. Rick was an awesome guy, and hes been in the business for along time. Here is his website.

http://www.raamaudio.com

His stuff is just as good as dynomat, but alot cheaper, and hes in comptition as well. He built his tacoma audio system using his stuff.

Even Mr. Marv recommends him big time. do a search on Raam Audio, and you will find alot of post about him.
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