Where did you guys hide your capacitor

Where did you guys hide your capacitor? I have an access cab.. I put an amp under each seat... WOndering where can I add the capacitor?

 

Don't bother. If your charging system is ok and you properly wired everything you don't need one.

 

My system is 1000w.... I had this same system in an another car with a capacitor...I just dont know where I can add it and be hidden... In the engine bay?

 

I'd upgrade the battery before adding a cap aka bandaid

 

Yep

 

I know you're feeling regretful that you wasted your money on a capacitor. However, that's no reason to put yourself through the hardship of mounting that terrible device. The stock alternator (even without the larger alt with the towing package) is quite capable of throwing down 1000rms. That's not a huge amount.

 

any one want a capacitor?

 

i rock one with my setup up. My lights dimmed with the power i have. I have two Kicker 750.1 and one 350.4. If i dont count the 4ch, i have 1500rms with it just on. But you should mount it within 18" or less from your amps. Thats the safest way. Plus the stock alts cant really handle the load draw for to long with what i was told from another member here which is about 13XXwatts. To much load for to long will shorten the life or your alt.

 

Just get a better battery! I'm running 2600 watts rms off a Kinetik 2400.

 

the cap does help. well i got mine for free so i don't care what anyone thinks lol...i have mine under my seat.

 

batteries dont provide more power for the continuos amp draw. alternator is you option to pump out the required juice. srry OP i dont have advice on the capicitor.

 

Ok, I have a few points though it is a bit of a tangent to the thread. (Sorry to the OP that I don't really know a good location to mount the Cap.. though I'd think right under the amp horizontally would work as long as you have the clearance to not short out on the back wall...)

A note on amplifiers:
An amp may say it is "1000 Watts." 99% of the amplifiers out there state their PEAK rated power versus continuous output power. You may even have something sick like a 2400 Watt amp, but I'd be willing to bet that on an amp like that, unless you paid $2000+ for it, its peak power is something WELL short of that.. most likely only about 25% of that. If you are using a high-end amplifier that either underrates their output or is very true to their word, 1000 Watts is not only a lot of juice, you better have some hellacious speakers to munch the power, or you will blow those suckers right out of their baffles. (FYI, 1000W continuous at ~14V = 71.4A) If you are really bumpin, you will suck your battery dry faster than you can charge it.

On charging systems:
Like others have said, I DO strongly recommend a stronger battery designed for the drain, like an Optima Yellowtop battery. But a battery only gets you so far. If you do have high current subs, a capacitor or a bank of caps is certainly the way to take the hit off your battery. If you are running multiple high current amps, you will really need a bigger alternator... a place like http://www.ohiogen.com/ can custom wind them to your specs. (I have one in an '84 Firebird that is a rolling stereo.... it has a 230A alternator.. and I have 4 x 1 Farad caps in front of an Xtant X1000 and an Xtant X604 --- that is 1600 Watts RMS (and underrated.. prob more like 2200+ W)) I will tell you that even with the 230A alternator, and an optima yellow top with garden hose for wiring your headlights will still dim a little with no caps when you are bumpin. A Tacoma has WAY WAY more electrical systems draining on the alternator than '84 Firebird... my car doesn't even have fuel injection... haha

 

^^^^ very true about rated continous watts vs rms vs max rated... but i believe you divide the wattage ie 1000w by 12 volt power source instead of 14 like you stated. correct me if i am wrong

 

Under one of the access seats?

 

Try this:
Go put a multimeter on your battery with your engine off... it will read about 12-12.5 volts.. (maybe 13 if it is FULLY FULLY charged).

Now, crank the motor. With the motor running, touch the battery terminals with the multimeter again. It will more than likely read between 12.8 -13.5 depending on the motor idle speed (if it is cold/hot, etc.) Now have a friend run the engine speed up to about 2k-3k RPM (please do this safely) and repeat the reading. The voltage should be 13.5-14.5 ish. When you are truckin down the highway, the alternator has a slightly higher output that would be closer to 14.5. I took 14 as a rough average while motor is running.

EDIT:
FYI, this is the first basic test for a bad alternator.. if the voltage does not drastically increase when running vs being off, your alternator may not be charging correctly.

 

I am not a capacitor fan, but since your question isn't about if you should buy one or if they work, I will try to answer your actually question.

If I were to have a capacitor, I'd mount it near where my power wire is running. If it is on the driver side, then I'd put it under the driver's seat or maybe under the center console under the storage compartment.

 

I was under this impression as well.

Which is why I'm so confused as to why the outlet in the bed is good for 400watts of power when the truck is idling and stationary but while moving it's only 100. Seems ass backwards to me.

 

It is backwards.. but it is the limitations A) of the inverter, and B) I guess Toyota's design didnt want you running anything 'substantial' back there while in motion...

 

My guess was B.

 

I have a 02 so mine is under the rear seat cubby, driverside: